Will these fit?

[Parrot of Doom]

I bought 4 wheels from an S-class owner, but being the first time I've done this I didn't bother to check compatibility. The car is a 1997 RHD E300TD saloon.

The new wheels are 8J x 16 H2 ET34

The manual says 7 1/2J x 16 H2 ET41 or 8J x 17 H2 ET37 or 8J x 18 H2 ET31


I've put one on, and so far as I can see the only difference is that the bolts travel further into the hub, by about an inch or so. I drove it cautiously up the street at about 5mph, and nothing seems to have broken (I'm aware of the steel wheel short bolts issue, I have those in my boot).

Can someone tell me what the numbers mean (obviously 16 is the diameter), and if I'll be ok putting these on all around? They're in much better condition than my existing ones.

[Ferdman]

As far as I know S-Class wheels and E-Class wheels are not interchangeable. The lug bolts for the S-Class are a larger diameter so the E-Class lug bolts will not seat properly in the wheels. The numbers 7 1/2 and 8 are the width of the wheels while the ET numbers are the offset in mm. With a different offset wheel the car will track different than designed ... perhaps placing excessive stress on some parts and possibly causing the tires to rub on the fenders or suspension components. My advice would be to stick with E-Class wheels with the width and offset specified in the Owner's Manual.

[Parrot of Doom]

The wheels I have on now are 7 1/2J x 16 H2 ET41.

The offset, ET41, seems to drop with the subsequent increase in tyre sizes specified. So the wheels I have now, have the largest offset - is that right?

So would these wheels be ok with different bolts, or should I just sell them and get whats specified in the manual?

[rudolfgreen]

those wheels will work fine.. your car should track better with the wider stance.
if try to use your stock bolts, but make sure they seat properly, and show at least 5-7 threads.
how long are the s-class bolts? can you count the threads from the wheel backing inward?
read the stickies on offset and consult the dealer on the bolts if possibly convienent..
if you post some pictures of the setup we can be sure..

[Parrot of Doom]

Hi again

Here is the new 8J wheel with the old 7J bolts:




Here is the old 7J wheel with the old 7J bolts:





As you can see, the new wheel with the existing old bolts doesn't quite look right. I compared the 2 bolts (the seller gave me 4 bolts with the wheel and some wheel centre caps free), and the existing bolts have a slightly smaller seat than the 4 bolts I was given.

So, would I need to go and buy 16 new bolts with S-class seats, to add to the 4 I was given?

[rudolfgreen]

sorry, meant the other (working) side with the bolts seated (to see the threads)
doesn't matter much how far they stick in/out on the outside, just as long as they seat solid.
and can you take a shot of the old vs *new* bolts side by side?

[Parrot of Doom]

Yes, here they are together - sorry for the low quality all I have is a phone:



The seat is very slightly different. On my existing bolts (the shorter in the pics) the seat is ever so slightly narrower - we're talking less than a mm here, so less area for the bolt to sit in - this worries me a little bit. Its only a tiny amount but in terms of surface area clamping the wheel, its probably low single figure % points.

[rudolfgreen]

the duty end of those bolts look near identical.. obviously it is the posts that are different.
take one of each bolt and seat them, and you will most likely find that they are identical (relative to each wheel)
looks like you are good to go.. although your old bolts look a little banged up.
probably would spring for a new set of the s-class type bolts and keep the old with your old set.. nice work.