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#1
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Brake pedal problem, gilly...
My brake pedal has been traveling too far toward the floor. I ignored it because I knew the rear pads/rotors were thin. Well, I replaced them and the pedal has improved, but not much. It's not "spongy" feeling, it just travels too far before it bottoms out (If I leave the other foot under the pedal, it will touch the top of my shoe).
I admit that I did not bleed the lines due to lack of knowlege on how to do it right. I siphoned some fluid out of the resoviour as I pushed in the pistons. When they were in far enough for the pads to clear the rotor, I stopped. Any ideas? |
#2
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Hate to say it, but from what I've been hearing it probably needs a master cylinder. You could try a brake fluid flush first, has that been done recently? If you look at the mechanics of how a hydraulic brake system is supposed to work, the amount of wear on the pads doesn't really affect pedal travel, the pistons keep moving out to compensate for wear and the fluid in the reservoir take up the slack.
Gilly
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#3
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flushed lately?
Yes, total brake fluid flush 15 months ago. I made an appointment at the dealer to check it out.
thanks. |
#4
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My break pedal travel has never changed and I flush the break fluid as specified. With new or worn pads I can't fill a difference. Still if I leave the other foot under the pedal, it will touch the top of my shoe.
Maybe there is nothing wrong with yours. Rene |
#5
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Maybe nothing wrong..
But I can't remember if the pedal always went this low. I wouldn't say it just "touches" a shoe under the pedal, more like the pedal pushes down on a shoe underneath. It doesn't hit the floor though. Anyway, I'll have the tech's check it out next week.
Thanks. |
#6
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Problem solved?
Well, the dealer's tech's said nothing is wrong with the brakes. It still seems that the pedal is too low, but I'll see what happens over time.
Also, while in, got a new fuel pump installed due to occasional gauge problems. And, a new brake light switch due to the SRS/BAS light illuminating for no reason. I think most of the vehicle has been replaced at this point. |
#7
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Nope, I bet the steering wheel and seats are all original. They really DO have to stop over-engineering the steering wheels and seats.........
Gilly
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Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#8
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Well...actually the driver's seat heater is not working. But, you're right, the steering wheel seems to be allright!
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#9
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Brakes revisited
To follow up on an earlier post on this thread. After having put a little over 3000 miles on my new 05 ML500SE I noticed the brake pedal now grabs sooner and slows the vehicle better. Now it feels like my 00 430 did as far as pedal height and effort. I have to believe it took that long to properly seat the pads on the rotors, thus producing better braking for a given pedal pressure. I don't use a lot of brakes and brake and release when stopping from high speed such as a free way offramp rather than one long application which would produce more heat. So, maybe it just takes that long to seat the big brakes on an ML 500. At any rate I'm happy with them now!
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David L |
#10
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It's all about seating the brakes. On the ML's especially, you need to get them a little warm (keep driving and barely press the brakes without letting off the gas on the hwy for about 6 seconds) in order to make them respond as they should from then on. Try this and see if you note any improvement. Anyone know a cheap place to get air mass meters?
![]() Chris Warner, Lt, USAF AC-130 Pilot |
#11
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"keep driving and barely press the brakes"
Chris thanks, I'll try that and see what happens. I bought the rebuilt, loaded callipers that I usually buy for this job. The pedal is up enough so I can get the toe of my other foot under, so I guess its not too bad. Cant help with the air mass meter, dont know what it is ![]() Steve, Tugboat driver RT |
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