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  #1  
Old 12-11-2005, 03:53 PM
supradupe's Avatar
98 ML320
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: North Shore, IL
Posts: 253
need help quick, stuck nut

Hi all,
I was attempting to change out the old shock/spring assembly from the rear end of my ML. The nut that bolted the shock to the lower wishbone get stuck. The problem is I need to use a Torx T-30 to hold the shaft while turning the nut. I have managed to sheer off 2 of those T-30 torx bits. I was able to loosen it only ended up having rust trapped in the tread and the nut got stuck. I cannot turn it either way without breaking another torx bit. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Surely, plan B will be the mechanics with the power tools.

thanks

steve
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  #2  
Old 12-11-2005, 04:57 PM
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Location: Charleston, SC
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Do you have the strut assembly out of the vehicle and you want to replace the shock with a Bilstein and re-use the spring?

Are you trying to take the strut assembly off the vehicle?

When I did this job I don't recall having had the problem you're expeniencing. I may not be visualizing your situation correctly. I think to get the strut off you just remove the three nut on the top and the nut on the bottom. I used an impact wrench and the bottom nut just spun right off.
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  #3  
Old 12-11-2005, 06:59 PM
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98 ML320
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: North Shore, IL
Posts: 253
yes Ron, I am replacing the who strut and spring assembly (1 piece). 3 nuts on top, not a problem, I got them out in no time. The bottom nut that attached to the lower wishbone is giving me *****. you know, it needs the torx T-30 to counter hold the shaft so that you can turn the nut. The freaking nut just drove me nuts. It is stuck really good, I broke 4 of those torx bits already, I will break all the torx bits available on earth and still won't get it out. I was trying to turn the nut back (i.e. tighten) so that I can clean the rust out of the tread, still the damn nut just won't turn.
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Old 12-11-2005, 07:35 PM
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Now I don't remember for sure how I did it buy I think I loaded the suspension by jacking it up by the ball joint with a floor jack, otherwise, you are trying to remove that bottom nut with all the forace of the spring and shock pushing down so it's real hard to loosen. Does that make sense?

I did use a impact wrench to undo that nut and all I can say is life is much better with air tools.
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  #5  
Old 12-11-2005, 07:41 PM
Q Q is offline
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Use PB Blaster or other type of penetrating oil to help you out. I now give everything a shot about 5 minutes before I start working on it.
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  #6  
Old 12-11-2005, 07:46 PM
Sportlines
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Johnson City, TN
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I have no particular experience with your situation except this.

Are you certain it is a Torx and not a triple-square. Just went through this when replacing the axle in my 300E. Triple square has twelve internal points.

Steve
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  #7  
Old 12-11-2005, 10:08 PM
supradupe's Avatar
98 ML320
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: North Shore, IL
Posts: 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in SC
Now I don't remember for sure how I did it buy I think I loaded the suspension by jacking it up by the ball joint with a floor jack, otherwise, you are trying to remove that bottom nut with all the forace of the spring and shock pushing down so it's real hard to loosen. Does that make sense?

I did use a impact wrench to undo that nut and all I can say is life is much better with air tools.
It shouldn't make any difference whether you jack up the ball joint or not, the shaft that goes through the lower wishbone can spin by itself. You still need to counter hold the shaft somehow while using the impact wrench don't you?
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Old 12-11-2005, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supradupe
You still need to counter hold the shaft somehow while using the impact wrench don't you?
No, not necessarily. Often times the impart hits it so hard it just comes off without any counterhold. Depend on how good your impact wrench is and how stubborn the nut want to be.

I've got my old strut assemblies around here somewhere, I'll look for them tomorrow and see what the top of the rod looks like. I really don't recall having to counterhold them at all.
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