Creaking noise from rear suspension
 

Hello,
I have a 99ML430 at 60K miles that has begun to make a very noticeable creaking/squeaking sound from right rear of the car when I go over bumps in the road - even small bumps.
(But the car continues to ride just fine)

Is it true that shocks/springs don't usually make this noise, but rather it's more likely to be bushings?

Am I harming the car if left untreated?
Can I get away with lubing the bushings and joints? If so, can someone post a diagram and the exact spots I should be lubing?

Thanks,

shock/spring assembly...
 

I believe the rear shock and spring are sold as a unit, perhaps its time to change, I believe fast robert just did the modification himself you can ask him for detailsl...

But...
 

Hi Tabo,
Thanks for your quick response.
But I am wondering :

A) Is this just an annoyance or am I damaging the car by not taking care of it...

B) Can I try the conservative route of lubing joints first vs. total replacement?

I just want to try conservative approach before spending big bucks or time on 'surgery'....

If I do lube the joints, where in this diagram (numbers) would you lube?

Click here for diagram

The common problem is #12, the shock/spring assembly. Never had any luck lubing anything, I have tried.

Gilly

Hello,
Thanks for your note. Do you think they would do a courtesy warranty fix or at 62K miles I'll have to foot the bill?

If so, how many man hrs do you estimate for both sides, and what are approximate part costs?

Thank you,

Kind regards,

btw: do you do any offroading?
 

because I never let my car leave payment, haha, I don't want any scratches on her, I"ve seen commercial vehicles at my company where they put 2-3 ton loads, and the shocks need to be replaced because of the abuse they take. Fast Robert said he changed the front shocks/springs in 1.5 hours time

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/ml-gl-g-wagen-r-class-unimog-sprinter/53524-ml320-shock-replacement-installation-help-needed.html

I believe the rear should be similar but shouldn't take as long because you don't need to remove the spring, no need to compress the spring. maybe 1 hour, but ask gilly to be exact.
hopefully fast robert can posts those DIY tips soon!

I "tread lightly" :)
Nothing serious. Just a little mud / rock crawling and stream fording. But the thing that worries me more than the occasional off roading is the "under carriage wash" or those car washes, because they really seem to be really drying out all those joints....

I'm still curious what it may end up costing me...

price
 

Opps for got to tell you the price, $220 US each side, prices may fluctuate.

You "may" be able to talk the dealer into getting a little help in replacement. That's an advantage in having a good relationship with the dealer, it depends alot on that. I can explain in more detail if you'd like.

We get I believe it's 3.5 hrs to replace the rear shocks, it's right around there anyways.
The parts price, I think tabo has about the right figure.

Gilly

1.5
 

Hi again,
Thanks for that great post.
Does the 1.5 on the picture highlight the labor hrs?

Thanks

Hello Gilly,
Maybe you can explain what you mentioned above in more detail... They did replace the front shocks a year ago (while it was still in warranty and they said they 'adjusted' the rear suspension height because it was out of spec. I dunno what that means, and don't have the receipt for it any longer, but I'm sure it's still in their database....

Any insight or hints you can provide me either on this post or via email would be greatly appreciated to help me defray a potentially $1K bill...

Regards,

MB gives dealers a certain amount of money (will vary according to dealer "volume" I assume) to use to help out in situations such as these. This is usually referred to as "Goodwill" money. Used for cases where the vehicle is just out of warranty, etc. It's typically up to the service manager to decide on a case by case basis who/what to use it on. If you would put yourself in their position, you would see that it makes the most sense to use this to help out the good, steady customers, not someone who rarely visits, maybe just bringing it in for "the free stuff", although now with the 2000 and newer cars having the free maintenance, there is alot of people getting "free stuff". Besides the point, I guess.

Point is, the better the relationship is that you have with the dealer, the more likely it is they may be able to help, either partially (pick up parts or labor) or the whole thing. You can always try talking to the district rep, they can sometimes authorize the job as well, the money coming directly through Mercedes instead of through the dealers "goodwill" money. They really only do get just so much to "play" with, if the dealer turns you down on it, it may be that there is none left that month.

I've never replaced a front shock on an ML yet, so unsure what that was all about. As far as setting the rear ride height, I think you mean the front, as the front torsion bars (springs) can be used to adjust the front height, unsure what they would do to set the rear height.
Gilly

Gilly,
Thanks for your note.
I will try to talk to my regular SA. He's been very good in the past in handling things with warranty when I was at 52K miles (2K miles past warranty!), and I've always been good/cooperative with him. We'll see what he says at 62K miles now!

I trust your judgement that it's likely the rear shocks. If I have to spend the money, I will.

Just out of curiousity, which part of the shock assembley goes bad?

Click for picture of bilstein shock

And just to help me make my case for warranty, can you tell me if this is a common problem for ML's? Does it help my case that it's common or rare? Any info you can provide me to help my SA justify warranty work would be helpful.

Regards,
:)

I'm unsure what inside makes the noise, I'd assume a seal.
Yes, it's a fairly common problem, and I think this may make it more likely to get assistance with it, the SA gets "conditioned" to a certain extent I think to help with these.

Gilly

My 00 ML 320 has also started making this creeking/squeeking noise from the rare driver side shock when going over bumps at only 28,000 miles. I am thinking of taking it in for a checkup soon.

I have also noticed if I reverse and turn, then stop and put the car in drive then turn the wheel to straighten, it makes this squeeking noise. Any idea what that is about?

'session,

I've done the front shocks to date. EEEEEEASY!!

The rears are enroute from California.

I opted for Bilstein fitment at all four corners rather than MB OEM fitment despite being told the coil spring isn't included on the Bilstein and therefore must be transferred. Challenges build character. :)

Imagery will be taken and posted along with a review of the process.

Gilly and all have been a BIG help. 3.5 hours for the rears huh? You're on chief!! :D

Cheers!

Robert,
Excellent!
Keep us posted (pardon the pun)
Someone should create a separate Forum for just ML DIY jobs....

all of my cars and trucks have squeaky shocks. just turn up the radio.

the shocks on the f250 make noise when they are cold. idealy ford shocks need to be replaced every 10k. they suck.

the g squeaks from the rear suspension all the time. if i clean everything, it will remain quiet for a 100 miles or so. i take it off road once a month for a work out.

konis,boges and bilsteins on the other cars seem to quiet down after they warm up.

take that m out and give the suspension a work out and see if it still makes noise.

cleaning the pivots and joints may help, but most lubes will eventually attract dust and dirt and you will be right where you started.

Gilly, What's up with the Bilstein replacements folks are talking about? I thought the OEM shocks were Bilstein gas units supplied to Mercedes.:confused:

tryan,

Agreed, Ford shocks suck. Stock Bilstein fitment on the 01+ Lightning aren't that bad however. Not sure how the Rancho shocks perform on the new 4x4.

Here are some shocks that would be fun to put on an Benz/AMG :D

http://www.f150online.com/galleries/...5-79-42344.jpg

Robert

Lewis:
The people doing the installation of the Bilsteins are probably better versed than I as far as selecting the shocks. I wouldn't be surprised if the shocks from the factory are Bilstein, or possibly Boge. Being a dealer tech, I pretty much use what the parts dept or possibly the owner hand me.
I don't recall replacing a front shock on an ML yet, lots or rears though. The noise form the rears can be really annoying, unusually loud creaking noise.

Gilly

FAST ROBERT -DID YOU REPLACE YOUR REAR SHOCKS YET?
 

I would like to read of your experience before I do mine. thank you.

sure did
 

sdanville,

Yes sir. I ended up using H&R coils with the Bilsteins. I'd rate changing the rear shocks a 7 on a 10 scale. GOOD spring compressors are a MUST.

Here's a link to the encounter.

I'm satisfied with the results.

If you opt to use aftermarket coil springs as I did, you should change your sway bar end links to correct the changes in the sway bar geometry. I used Energy Suspension hardware available at your local AutoZone. They even had the correct size in stock. :)

Gratuitous Imagery.

Simple Noise Cure Wanted.
 

I want to have quiet shocks is all.
And I want to save $. It seems silly to change good coil springs in my case. I'd just ike to replace the shocks.
ZYGMUNT Motors online offers Bilstein shocks for the 1999 ML320 $129.60. each.
Thank You for your reply.
Steve