Troops,

After receiving a $1700 quote from our local MB dealer to replace the shocks on our 98 ML320, a decision was made to tackle this project myself. Replacement fitment will be arriving this week and any suggestions, recommendations, tips, tricks, etc. would be most appreciated. Luckily, I posses a moderate degree of mechanical aptitude and an ever growing tool collection. A set of HAL QA1 12-way adjustable shocks were installed on my 2001 SVT Lightning in the garage in approx 3 hours.

In looking at the front shocks, they seem to be a simple R&R however the replacement units for the rear don't include the coil springs so they will need to be transferred. This leads to some questions:
[list=1][*]Other than a spring compressor, are there any special tools required to remove the coil from the factory unit?[*]Are the upper shock nuts accessible via the small 'doors' or do the interior panels have to come out?[*]What are the torque specs for the shocks?[/list=1]

Again, any guidance would be appreciated.

Robert

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Fast Robert

is it because the ride isn't smooth anymore? loud bumps when going over bumps? I know some other ml'ers who changed there shocks at 80K miles as well.. could you have gotten aftermarket shocks? Sorry I've never done a ML but I've done suspension work on subaru's and hondas and they are so easy... I'm sure its similar.. just be careful when you take out the spring! btw: takes some pics of the install =) I wanna learn too haha..
hope these pics help you out!

Front suspension....

Attached Thumbnails

 

rear...

Attached Thumbnails

 

Hello Robert:
Here is a post I put up in the past week or so regarding the top nuts:
Need Help Removing ML320 Rear Strut

I believe the torque on the top nuts is 25 nm.
The single large nut on the botton I "believe" is 85 nm, not 100% sure, maybe 80% sure.

In addition to obviously removing the top 3 nuts and the single one at the bottom, you also need to remove the rear sway bar links and the 2 long bolts on each lower rear control arm. When reinstalling the rear control arms, the truck needs to be resting on it's wheels before tightening the bolts. I usually do the tightening of these bolts on an alignment rack, i imagine it could be done on the ground as well.

The MB rear shocks come with the spring as an assembly, so never had to r&r the springs from the shocks.

I just noticed you said; "In looking at the front shocks", I believe you meant to say rear. Never had to mess with a front shock on an ML, plus it has a front torsion bar spring, not a coil. Plus you mentioned taking interior panels out, so I believe you are talking about the rear shocks.

Gilly

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On the rear suspension diagram Tabo posted, the 2 long bolts I mentioned go through the bushings on the lower control arm (#8 in the drawing), the bushing is #9 in the drawing, there are 2 of these bushings on each side. The control arm has to be disconnected at the rear subframe by removing these bolts so the shock can come out.

Gilly

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My shocks were toast at 50k.

Despite claims by my SA that they never replcae ML shocks, mine needed replacement badly.

You are 99% correct:
Top nuts torque is 20 nm
Large nut on the bottom - 85 nm
Nut connecting rod to torsion - 21 nm
Lower wishbone to rear axle carrier - 135 nm. Torque them with rear axle shafts horizontal.
You will need to replace all self-locking nuts and bolts.

Thanks for the imagery and info!! (printing now)

The front shocks were replaced this evening in about an hour and a half. Super simple and very straightforward. How's that stack up to the tech time alloted?

tabo,

I went with aftermarket shocks (Bilsteins) but the coils on the rear units aren't included. A little concern is building but challenges are good for the soul and it makes the Guinness taste better. The slugs removed this evening were, IMHO, factory fitment and with 122K miles, they died long ago (read: noisy over bumps, too much rebound, etc.) Post-install shakedown ride profile difference was immediately noticible upon leaving the driveway.

Fear not, digital imagery was captured of the front and will occur on the rear as well. All will be posted upon project completion. Your images help A LOT and the favor shall be returned.

gilly,

My apologies for the confusion. The fronts are a SUPER easy R&R (see above). However, under the plastic 'sleeve' on the MB shock shaft was what appeared to be a bumpstop. It was transferred to the new shock as I didn't notice any obvious bumpstops on the frame. I'd rather have it there than not if nothing more than to protect the shock.

Thank you for the link with the writeup on the rear strut removal and the torque specs. Sounds like preseverance is key here.

That Pete Guy,

Having replaced shocks on my Lightning, I honestly loathed driving the Benz because of its less than acceptable ride profile compared to the 'Redneck AMG.' Handling and neck-snapping torque comparisons aside as they aren't relevant to this topic and don't apply to a four out of five M-Class offerings...

myarmar,

Thank you very much for the torque specs!


Respectfully,

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Fast Robert

To all- in case you need simple instructions..Bilstein Shock arrived UPS.

March 15th 2004 My Experience - one after market shock replacement..
1) remove spare tire
2) jack up frame remove tire.
3) remove inner fender well piece.
4) remove 3 top shock nuts. 2 from underneath one from fender well.
5) remove lower shock bolt
6) remove the 2 long swing arm bolts.
7) remove 2 nuts on top of sway bar link swing arm should move out of way.
7) remove shock - take to a spring compression guy. I went to muffler man.
8) they took off spring and told me they couldnt get off shock mount.
9) I took home , cut off plastic sleeve, cut off shock rod with grinding wheel, , flattened two sides of rod so vice would get good grap. broke loose pressed on fitting with vice grips. took pressure off vice and punched rod out of press fitting.
10) took back to the "professionals" at mufflerman. They then completed instaling shock in spring.

My only installation glitch...the bottom shock nut turned so hard I was afraid to go all the way where it should be..(with 1/2 threads sticking out past the nut.) I THINK I will have my kids sit on the back and snug it down.



Jun 3 2006 - I just replaced the Riight Rear shock.
While it is fresh in my mind , I wanted to report. On the rear right..1) I only slid out the spare tire and did not remove it..2) I had to remove all 3 top nuts from under neath. 3) I ONLY DIsconnected the swing arm and worked the shock out. Stiil took 2 1/2 hours. But the squeek is gone.

June 2009 - Front Shock Installation instructions.
10 year anniversary of my ML320. Built June 1999. Monroe shocks $90 fot the pair delivered ********.
10 Michigan winters prevented the top nuts from moving. This is no Honda. Had to drummel the top nuts off. That took an hour letting the dremmel cool down every couple minutes. Then removed the tires to have room to use a pipe extention on my breaker bar to get the bottom bolts off. With a friend guiding me a bit, had the new Monroes on lickity Split. The Monroe's do not have the bushing on the shaft to make it fit tight on the top bracket. My helper said the rubber bushing was made to keep it in place. I dont know. But its done. If I notice a big improvement, I will add more commentary.

__________________
Steve Danville
what i did myself.
CPS
rear shocks
MAS x 3.
SparkPlugs (twice)
Fuel pump & Filter
Window switch
replaced both failed horns with Honda horns.
Cleaned ERG Tube
Oil changes
Oil consumption Fix
Brake Pads
A/C Recharge
Anti-Freeze change X 2.
Front Shocks. Monroe. $90
Mercedes Warrenty Work:
Harmonic balancer,power steering clamp. Cat converters.Drive Shaft Bearing.s
Replaced Outer Lower Tie Rods and front lower ball joints at 156,000 miles

sdanville,

Shoot me a PM with your email addy and I'll reply with imagery.

FR

__________________
Fast Robert

excellent- thanks-a million +
sdanville@grar.com

DEC 27th Update - - -YEP - GOT IT ! THANKS !

__________________
Steve Danville
what i did myself.
CPS
rear shocks
MAS x 3.
SparkPlugs (twice)
Fuel pump & Filter
Window switch
replaced both failed horns with Honda horns.
Cleaned ERG Tube
Oil changes
Oil consumption Fix
Brake Pads
A/C Recharge
Anti-Freeze change X 2.
Front Shocks. Monroe. $90
Mercedes Warrenty Work:
Harmonic balancer,power steering clamp. Cat converters.Drive Shaft Bearing.s
Replaced Outer Lower Tie Rods and front lower ball joints at 156,000 miles

Steve,

You have mail.

FR

Hi,
I would highly appreciate it if someone would send me the guide to replace the shocks on the ML320 98, or point me to a link.
Please PM me or send me an email to kurdi1973@hotmail.com

Thanks in advance

If you need more help than the stuff already listed on the forum in this thread and some older threads you might want to consider letting a professional do it.

Try searching through fast roberts posts as he had some great instructions awhile ago.