I found a decent looking laminate floor manufactured by DuPont (Real Touch Elite) for the kitchen in one of the rentals. Far more durable than linoleum or vinyl tile and not all that costly ($3.25 sq. ft.).

My question, for those who have installed these interlocking planks is as follows:

When dealing with a door jamb, if you cut the bottom of the door jamb and slip the panel beneath the jamb, it cannot be lifted to assist in the interlock.

If you don't cut the door jamb and keep the panel outside the jamb, you'll need a piece of trim in that location.........which is impossible due to the required closure of the door.

So.......any advice appreciated...........

Brian –
I’m thinking this (see pic) is the area you’re talking about. (?)

The normal procedure is to fit together at ~45 degrees and snap it down. That doesn’t mean that’s the only way it will lock together. Just like the ends - the sides can be locked together while laying flat. Just be very careful not to chip the edge of the piece you’re hitting. Start at one end of the long piece, and work it together from there. Don’t try to lock a whole long piece in all at once by hitting it. That wont happen.

I take it you have the tool (not the block) that you hit with a hammer to knock the pieces together with, right? I used the one that came with the install kit, the first floor I did. It sucked. I went to Lowes and bought a more triangular shaped one with much greater contact area for the flooring. Worth twice what I paid. Wonderful tool compared to the cheap 1.5” flat stock with 90s on the ends.

I suggest you lay down some scraps and practice first. A lot of the cheaper floorings have brittle locking tracks.

i.e. Start with the long sides going together at a slight angle with a gap at the sort locking end Hammer with the block until the long sides are locked. Then, with the 90 tool grab the opposite short end, and hammer the short locking ends together. (Hope that made some sense, kind-o hard to put into words).

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1980 300D - Veggie Burner !

Yep, that's the problem.........right in the photo.

I purchased the "install kit" from HD, but, it probably has a cheap 1.5" flat stock tool as you mentioned.

I don't see a problem in any area other than below those jambs.

Were you able to fit the panel beneath the jamb and force it into position with the Lowes tool and a hammer? You start on one corner and work it until it slowly moves into the desired position?

Yep, this is a cheap floor...........and the tongues are quite fragile.

Along the long side, you can rest the block (~2"x1"X10" plastic thing that came in the kit) on top of the locking track (press down hard as not to let it hop up and chip the lam.) and knock the long side in with it. Then to slide the piece to lock the short end, yes, use the tool with the bigger area and not the 1.5" cr-p tool that came in the kit. As you will quite possibly be installing the last piece of that run, you will more than likely have a cut end to hook and pull on. You may need to slide the tool in/out from the side if you're under the drywall. In the jam area, you don't have to have the tool dead center, just be careful how hard you hit it.

Also - With either/any 90 tool, it's a good idea to check it every now and then to assure it's still at 90 on both ends. I stand mine up and hammer the ends when needed. Otherwise, they will chip the contact edge for sure.
After about 40-50 smacks - the cheap tools are bending open pretty good.

I'll go out to the hangar and see if I can find the good tool and get you a pic.

First one I did (I've done about 3500 sq ft by now), was some cheap stuff from HD thata friend bought. Those brittle locks drove me nuts.

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1980 300D - Veggie Burner !

For another dollar a sq ft you probably can buy real prefinished wood, and often you can find it for less than that.

Then if it wears out you can refinish it.

I am a big fan of real wood. It takes a bit more to install though.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Love the real stuff too, Tom.
But with kids - Nothing like bulletproof laminate.

Brian -
Here’s the tool to lay flooring with.
(got lucky - it was still in the shop by the house)

Made by Precision Components. Item # 196458. Called: Pull Bar Barreta.

1” on the hammer end. 3” on the working end. Has felt (more like Velcro pad) on the bottom so as not to mess up your lam, and it keeps the lam edge from contacting up in the bend. Never chipped a piece with this tool.

I got mine at Lowes, but I’d bet HD has them as well. Get one, and throw that kit tool away.

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1980 300D - Veggie Burner !

Thanks John.

Clearly, this is going to be quite a project. This is my first laminate floor and I see that it's no easy task.

Brian, Rub a bar of soap on the edge of the ones that are difficult to snap together due to being in tight spots. Makes it much easier.

Nothing beats the real thing though. To me, laminate feels like walking on a cheap counter top.

Thanks, I'll try that.

The laminate is far superior to linoleum or vinyl tile in the kitchen. In fact, it's superior to real wood in that location due to the lack of any care required in the future.

The design looks like ceramic tile and I'm quite optimistic as to it's longevity.........provided that it doesn't get flooded with water.

Brain, WVO (anyone else who cares to chime in as well);

Sounds like you guys have some experience in the click together laminate flooring. What brands did you look at when making a decision which to get? I like the idea of click together but the only ones here at the HD in town are the cheap photographed looking wood that seems to me like it would sound like a drum when walking upon. I like real wood but I'm not thrilled about the glue down aspect of the stuff I was looking at - concrete slab in the desert so no real moisture problems. Do they make a click together kind with real wood? Perhaps real wood on top and plywood or something similar on the bottom? I think I'd much rather click together than glue, plus there's the added aspect of the little kids which appear to be like roving jackhammers on walls and floors - they can't reach the ceiling yet.

BTW, good luck on your floor Brian.

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-livin' in the terminally flippant zone

Matt, there are all kinds of "engineered" floors today. I've seen some with actual wood veneers that you'd be hard pressed to tell that they were not solid. They are more stable than wood and they don't need to be finished after installation. Cost is about double the cheap stuff that I got from HD (about $6.50 or so), but, they are a fine looking floor.

Most of the floors that I've seen in that category are nail down or glue down. But, I do believe John has a very high end floor that clicks together.

Well, it sounds like I'm in for quite the experience with this one..............

I hope it works out for you.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Don't do laminate. If you are going to spend the time to install a floor, do real wood or at the very least an engineered wood floor. The laminates do nothing for the resale of your house and may actually discourage a buyer from purchasing your house.

There are some snap together real wood flooring. However, I think Bamboo is probably the best value and most durable of the real products. Not to mention, bamboo is a renewable resource and grows like a weed. Make sure you like the cut of the bamboo flooring. I like the vertical cut but some like the horizontal cut.

If the basis for the discussion is linoleum, you might reconsider your position on that.

I just installed a beautiful wood laminate through about 80 percent of my house. I cut under the jambs with a jamb saw prior. I'd give it a 2/10 difficulty DIY scale.

Personally I found it to be a very easy process, although tedious, once you are down on your hands and knees for so many hours. I used the pull bar, and a block of wood. You will find little tricks that work well for you as you go. Make sure you leave space on the sides to allow for expansion.

The worst part about the job was pulling up the poorly laid, engineered wood, from the floor, then renting a floor scrapper to remove left over glue/chips of wood.

Here is what we bought.

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1994 C 280 117.5k, White (Good as new)
1997 Toyota Camry 149k Miles (Not so pretty anymore)

1990 190e 2.6 95k (Sold-Should not have)
1981 240d Stick ??? Miles...sold