There must be a book in print:

Fridges for dummies.:D

Update: Understood your intructions explicitly (Thanks!) and followed them. Bad news is that my defrost system seems to be working perfectly. I made it engage defrost mode with a screwdriver, verified the heat bar got hot (red hot -- that was a surprise), and the timer took over and ended the defrost cycle about 24 minutes after it started.

The fridge was running for 24 hours before I did this experiment and my digital thermometer said it was 16 degrees in the freezer when I started.

So do you think I have a problem in the sealed system or compressor? Low freon? The fridge is less than 9 years old.

Interestingly enough, I saw the exact same Fridgedare at Lowes today for $448. It was identical.

...........and you believe you have a problem..........because??

16 degrees is a bit high but not terrible. What's the setting on the thermostat?

Food in freezer was not frozen solid before I started. Beer in fridge was not very cold.

I think you told me two hours after defrosting, put the thermometer directly in front of the fan and it should read 0 degrees.

I thought freezers should be between 0 and 8 degrees. Just checked on the way out the door and freezer was 23 degrees. Perhaps it recently went through defrost cycle.

Both fridge and freezers are set to "coldest."

0 degrees is ideal..........I'm not sure that too many of them actually achieve it. 16 is higher than desired, for sure but it will still keep food frozen.

As for setting both freezer and refrigerator on max cold, most fridges divert air from the freezer to cool the refrigerator. Therefore, either the freezer can be the coldest possible or the refrigerator can be the coldest possible..............but not both. You might get some benefits on the refrigerator temperature if you set the freezer in a mid position and leave the fridge on max cold.

In any case, you've exhausted your options with the defroster.........it's doing the proper job. I don't think you've got other options unless the thermostat is NG. Does the compressor run 100% of the time? If it does, the game is over. If it doesn't...........and shuts off periodically (NOT COUNTING THE DEFROST CYCLE)...........a replacement thermostat would cure your issue.

Brian is right, There is a chance that the thermostat could be bad. If the ref is running non-stop, I would lean more towards a recharge.

I wouldnt get disappointed if you have to recharge the unit, It will probably last another few years.

Just to rule it out, your ref is not near any source of heat? I think I remember you saying its in the garage? they start to lose cooling capacity in 95+ environment.

I am not 100% sure, but I seem to recall hearing it cycle periodically. I will pay attention to it to see if it does. If it does, I will probably go ahead and replace the thermostat because it is cheap ($13.85 from repairclininc.com).

How much would you guess a service call to re-charge would cost?

No, it is in a finished basement (in condiitoned space).

You'll need to determine if it's cycling periodically in random fashion............or if it entered its defrost cycle. If it's the former, then replace the thermostat.

If i remember, Im pretty sure your defrost timer is 10hr/21 minute. So, its safe to say it will shut down twice a day for sure.

One thing you can check is the evap coils, with proper charge, the coils should be evenly frosted throughout. Otherwise, it will usually frost up in one spot.

It was definitely NOT frosted throughout. There was ice only in the top inch or so on both sides.

I'm still curious how much you think a service call to re-charge will cost.

The cost depends on the location.

Here in ripoff land, the price would probably be close to $200.

Call around to a reputable :rolleyes: repair shop and see what they offer. If you're really fortunate, you might get the price down to $100.

Right, I was replying to that, and I totally forgot as I was typing.

Depending on who you call, I would say 100-200.

If you have recharged your auto ac before, its the same process, you just have to install your own valve.

You can get away with a 5 dollar piercing valve, and a can of r134, with a gauge. Refers run between 10-18psi on the low side.

DIY: maybe 35 bucks. I can publish my new book: Recharging for dummies :)