Fridge Not Cold -- Worth Trying to Fix?
 

We have a second refrigerator in our basement we use for overflow storage and beer. It was a cheapy -- about $450 from Sears 8 years ago. Its performance has been gradually getting worse. I put a thermometer in it and the fridge is 44 degrees and the freezer is 18 degrees. The coil is on the back and it is not dirty or obstructed.

It's a Kenmore model 25370822001 and the label says it draws 4.5 amps and uses R134A refrigerant.

The gaskets seem genearlly crappy but intact. It doesn't take very much effort at all to open either door. I imagine I lose some efficiency from the door gaskets.

Anyone have any DIY tips I can try to cool it down? Or would it make sense to call a repairman to make a housecall? I would be happy to invest $100 to make it cool properly and last another few years, but I'm not interested in putting $250 into it.

Nah, toss it and get a cheapie new one. I think the newer ones save more energy, but expect warmer beer, unless you max her out, LOL.

I have noticed our crappy garage fridge serves me lukewarm beer too :(

don't they have a cash for clunkers for this dilemma?

If you can figure out who really made the box, do an internet search and look for common problems.

I have a 12 year old Amana fridge that stopped working well about 6 years ago. I did some digging on the web and found out that that model had an issue with a switch buried back behind a panel in the freezer that fails, causing the box to forget to defrost.

So , I located the switch and, sure enough, it was broken. I fixed it (for free) and the thing still works great.

I also ripped apart a crappy GE washer I had 10 years ago and replaced the transmission with one thoughtfully supplied by GE using detailed step-by-step instructions found on the internet (they had a lot of problems). That fix really wasn't worth the time and trouble (except for bragging rights) as two years later it started making noise and I kicked it to the curb.

So, anyway- it may be at least worth the time to see if your unit has a common problem and decide what your time is worth.

Rick

I would definitely check the internal cooling coil. I had a problem with my old refrig and it was burned out heaters. It could also be the defrost timer. They tend to crap out a lot.
It would make more sense to spend $50 to fix it than to just throw it away.

Danny

I think JohnHef can do a R134 re-charge for a 100.00.

We have a new member "lorainfurniture" who is an appliance repairman - maybe he will step into this thread.

If you are concerned about the seal around the door, let it warm up a bit, then close the door and spray some soapy water around the edge of the seal then let the thing cool again. If there is air leaking in, it will draw in the outside air as the inside air contracts in the cold (causing an air pressure difference), then drawing in the soap and water, and then freezing it. The fridge would be a similar situation but wouldn't freeze. Add a drop of dye in it (maybe? Nothing that would stain) and spray it on so you can see where the water is drawn in.

If you are getting 18 in the freezer then I would say you have enough refrigerant and the problem is mechanical. Is there a fan that forces the cold air into the refrigerator part that might be blocked or not turning? It is possable it is stuck in defrost but I think that would effect the freezer at the same time.

Repairs to refrigerators generally fall into two cagegories:

1) Problems with the sealed system including the compressor.

2) Problems with the defrost cycle.


If the compressor is NG or the sealed system is compromised, the machine is toast..........not worth the cost and effort.

If the defroster fails to operate correctly, the evaporator freezes and the cooling capability is severely compromised.



To determine if the evap is frozen:

Unplug the machine and let it sit for 24 hours. The first sign of a defrost problem is a huge amount of water in the drain pan.

Then get a thermometer and put it in the freezer............right in front of the dischage air. Start the machine and let it run for two hours.

Read the thermometer. If the discharge air is close to 0°, the sealed system is working fine and it's worth fixing the defroster. If the discharge air is still close to your original 18°, the compressor is probably on the way out.

A "few" years back I remember a little session on energy savings I had participated in and one part of the session had to do with when a refrigerator/freezer was due to be tossed...and what could be done, simply, to save it...providing the parts and labor didn't cost more than a new unit.

The "trick" I learned about the seals was: Take a simple dollar bill out of your wallet, put it in the seal area of the door, close the door on the dollar and let go of the dollar...If it moves at all, replace the seals, if it's economical to do...

You should be able to tug on the dollar and it should take a "little" effort to get it to pull. If you want to compare "new" against "used," just head into any appliance retail outlet and try the "dollar-drop" on a new unit and use that "resistance" as a measure against your unit...

Also, the other tell-tale sign that your gaskets suck? If there's ANY CRACKING of the material or the gasket(s) don't lay down straight...

Checking the gaskets is the easiest, quickest and cheapest thing to do first...

After that...send in the clowns... :thumbup1:

All good information. Thanks for your input.

I also found good troubleshooting info at http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_4_1.asp

I'll empty it this weekend, unplug it and let it sit for 24 hours and see if it is the defrost system that is buggered up.

I am going to tape this thread to the front of my refrigerator:P

Oten time you can unscrew a panel in the freezer to look at the coils. If they're covered in frost and ice, the defrost system is not working. Also there is often a fan to move cold air from the freezer to the frig. That fan can also often be observed by removing a panel.
I used to have an old frig with a manual defrost system. Button inside the door. Push it to go thru a defrost cycle. Liked it.

......where the refrigerator can see it and promptly get even with you..........

Reminds me about one other point of note on very old fridges..........

If the condenser is buried below the box (no coils on the back of the machine), they never get cleaned. The rear cardboard panel must be removed to access the filthy mess that will be found behind it. The machine must be lowered onto its side for access.

30 minutes with a strong shop vac is necessary to get it reasonably clean.

Performance will likely be restored if the condition of the condenser is seriously compromised with dust and filth.

Don't you still have your "ice box" as the primary cooling apparatus............a fridge with manual defrost would be a modern convenience............;):D

Your fridge is actually made by Frigidare. Before you unplug, open the freezer door, and look in the back. Check for frost. Then check for ice.. There should be NONE of that there. After checking that, check the evaporator fan (freezer), it should be running well. If you notice frost, you probably have a defrost problem. Advance the timer with a flathead screwdriver until you hear a click, and the compressor shuts down. Its now in defrost mode. within a few minutes, you should be able to feel some heat in the back at the BOTTOM. If no heat, bad defrost limiter of heater. Simple continuity test can confirm either.

If you see Ice, you probably have a clogged drain. remove back panel, and unclog.
(pain in the a**)

If all the defrost function is working, check the doors. Those cheapies tend to warp at the bottom. run your finger along the bottom, and check. Too much stuff on the door causes that. You can carefully "tweak" it back in to shape by hand.

I assume you have your settings at the factory set position. If not put them back.

If all of that is fine, then you might be losing gas.

Where's the condenser on that machine?

If you guys EVER need any appliance parts, send me a message. Those 50 dollar defrost timers you guys are buying I get for 5-10 dollars. The mark up is near robbery. I would be happy to sell a fellow MBZ owner at cost, (+shipping)

That particular model has the condenser coils on the back.

OK......thanks.........then my previous thought wouldn't apply to this model.

Thanks............
 

Old Caloric stove..........now deceased...........would eat the Norton igniter about once every 18 months. $50..........what a scam. If I knew, I would have dumped that machine years ago.

THANKS for the offer...........I'll definitely be in touch.

Square ignitors.... 15.99 universal..

My kitchen stove is a gas tall leg Moore's circa 1920. Are parts still available for it?

Wow. No, at least, not new. What parts are you looking for?

See, I told you a few weeks ago that you would be handy to have around! ;)

Nothing crucial at the moment. It is missing the drawer that goes under the burners.

Its the least I can do.. I am very happy to have found this forum. You guys have already saved me countless hours of MBZ aggravation.

Sometimes I see them when im unloading scrap at the scrap yard. Email me a pic of your stove, along with dimensions of the pan and I will keep my eyes peeled. eugene@lorainfurniture.com

I used to have a gas refridgerator with the freezer on the top, used ot use boiling pots of water to defrost it, when portable hair dryers where invented I used that. Yes I am old.

Hi folks. I got a chance to start working on this tonight. There was some frost in the freezer. I emptied the unit and unlugged it. Took out the icemaker and rear panel in the freezer. There was a little ice on the evaporator coil. Not a lot, but definitely some. Some of the fins were bent as well. I straightened those.

So I suspect a defrost system failure. I can locate the thermostat and the heating rod. But can you tell me where the thermostat timer is on this model Kenmore/Fridgedaire model 25370822001)? I don't want to take the back cover off unless I have to because the condensor coil is on the back.

Once I get to the timer, I already have some troubleshooting tips. But I'm interested in any other insight you can provide. TIA.

Were you Amish?

The sure don't make stuff like they used to. My parents have a standard Frigidaire (made in MI/USA!!) fridge that is 22 years old, the thing STILL works fine, defrost and everything....it has never failed...ever. Even the fan for air circulation still blows strong...truly amazing. The door seal even still seals tight and has no cracking.

In my experience with rental properties, simple, non-automatic defrost fridges are the longest lasting since they have less electrical and moving parts.

..............until one of the idiots decides to defrost the freezer with a knife............:mad:

You had that same tenant too?

............and a similar refrigerator............they never learn.............

Psh, a landlord that supplies such a low end junky fridge deserves to have that happen! I am a renter right now, and can't stand cheapskate land lords! My current place has a real nice and only few year old GE fridge. :D


My air conditioner, while still functional, uses energy like a pig (14,000btus output, but uses 2,500 watts of power. :eek:) Its from the late 60's....and get this, its made by Borg Warner! Sound familiar? I thought that was pretty neat! :D New ones with that output run on 110 power and use about 1400 watts....then again they probably don't last 40+ years either...

They're the 240d of fridges. I've offered my tenants frostfree fridges for an increase in rent but no one has wanted to take me up on that one.

Hello,

Your defrost timer is right next to your thermo knob in the ref compartment. You dont need to remove to test, take a flat head screwdriver and turn the timer through the little access hole. you will hear "click, click click, CLICK, and at that point the ref should shut down. It might take quite a few clicks before it shuts down. BTW, the fridge must be running while you do this.

Take a look at the clock when you do this. your ref calls for a 21 minute defrost cycle. If it goes more than 30 mins, you need a new timer.

You should notice that the heaters will turn on, it takes about 3-5 mins for it to warm up, then shut down after all the frost is melted.

Pay attention to the water, make sure it is draining down to the pan mounted on top of the compressor.

Let me know what happens.

Also, Everything repairable on that ref is either in the compressor area or behind the cover in the freezer compartment. Also the thermostat area. the back of that ref does not come off.

Eugene -- Thank you so much. Can't wait to get home to do the diagnosis. Glad I didn't start unbolting things on the back looking for the thermostat timer.

Oh... a question: If I click to my heart's content on the timer and nothing happens, then can I assume the timer is bad? Will it be obvious if the timer is working (i.e. the evaporator fan in the freezer stops and the heater starts)? Sorry if I am belaboring the obvious.

I have a multimeter. I know I should be able to confirm the timer is bad using it. But am I looking for continuity? From what terminal to what terminal? Do I check whlie the timer is still installed and wired up or do I remove it for this test?

No need for all of that. The timer will click eventually, im 99% sure. I have rarely come across a ref that had a stuck contact like that.

The timer test is done while the timer is installed.

Im starting to believe that you dont have a defrost problem. Were your evap coils covered with frost? Like covered to the point that it would restrict air flow?

Now I'm confused. So how would I know if it's bad if it's going to click eventually?

The coils had some visible ice between the fins near the top. But I would estimate it was less than 15% of the surface area had obvious ice. It was in the top part of the coil on the sides. There was also a small amount of ice on the floor of the freezer.

Not sure about frost on the walls of the freezer or on the evaporator coil. I am afraid I futzed around with the drip pan for probably 15 minutes after shutting down the power. (It had a small amount of water and crap in it and I unbolted it, drained and cleaned it.) By the time I had my head in the freezer, any frost on the walls may have melted. And it took me another 10 minutes or so to remove the icemaker and take the rear panel off.

That's not a defrost problem. When they don't defrost, the entire evaporator is one huge block of ice and it takes about two hours with a hair dryer to melt it down...........or the fridge needs to sit overnight and the floor gets flooded...............:o

Sorry, im over-explaining.... The timer is bad if it takes more than 21-25 mins to "click out" of defrost. If it was anything else in the timer, it would start blowing breakers, or not running AT ALL.

The only thing to test on the timer is the time.

At this point, let the ref defrost completely. Plug the ref back in, and let it run for 24hrs.

After the ref reaches temp. start clicking the timer.
the ref WILL shut down within 360 degrees of rotation.
check time
check for heat.
the ref will click out, check time again. 21 mins?
thats the defrost cycle..... its harder to explain than it is to do..

sorry if I was confusing my literary skills are a bit shabby

Im starting to believe that you had a ice blockage on the top of your evap coils.... your ref might just start working...

It's not you. I just need an idiot's guide to fridge repair. You're unknowingly writing one bit by bit. Thanks again to you and all the rest for your support. I'll keep you updated.