Sometimes I see them when im unloading scrap at the scrap yard. Email me a pic of your stove, along with dimensions of the pan and I will keep my eyes peeled. eugene@lorainfurniture.com

I used to have a gas refridgerator with the freezer on the top, used ot use boiling pots of water to defrost it, when portable hair dryers where invented I used that. Yes I am old.

Hi folks. I got a chance to start working on this tonight. There was some frost in the freezer. I emptied the unit and unlugged it. Took out the icemaker and rear panel in the freezer. There was a little ice on the evaporator coil. Not a lot, but definitely some. Some of the fins were bent as well. I straightened those.

So I suspect a defrost system failure. I can locate the thermostat and the heating rod. But can you tell me where the thermostat timer is on this model Kenmore/Fridgedaire model 25370822001)? I don't want to take the back cover off unless I have to because the condensor coil is on the back.

Once I get to the timer, I already have some troubleshooting tips. But I'm interested in any other insight you can provide. TIA.

Were you Amish?

The sure don't make stuff like they used to. My parents have a standard Frigidaire (made in MI/USA!!) fridge that is 22 years old, the thing STILL works fine, defrost and everything....it has never failed...ever. Even the fan for air circulation still blows strong...truly amazing. The door seal even still seals tight and has no cracking.

In my experience with rental properties, simple, non-automatic defrost fridges are the longest lasting since they have less electrical and moving parts.

..............until one of the idiots decides to defrost the freezer with a knife............:mad:

You had that same tenant too?

............and a similar refrigerator............they never learn.............

Psh, a landlord that supplies such a low end junky fridge deserves to have that happen! I am a renter right now, and can't stand cheapskate land lords! My current place has a real nice and only few year old GE fridge. :D


My air conditioner, while still functional, uses energy like a pig (14,000btus output, but uses 2,500 watts of power. :eek:) Its from the late 60's....and get this, its made by Borg Warner! Sound familiar? I thought that was pretty neat! :D New ones with that output run on 110 power and use about 1400 watts....then again they probably don't last 40+ years either...

They're the 240d of fridges. I've offered my tenants frostfree fridges for an increase in rent but no one has wanted to take me up on that one.

Hello,

Your defrost timer is right next to your thermo knob in the ref compartment. You dont need to remove to test, take a flat head screwdriver and turn the timer through the little access hole. you will hear "click, click click, CLICK, and at that point the ref should shut down. It might take quite a few clicks before it shuts down. BTW, the fridge must be running while you do this.

Take a look at the clock when you do this. your ref calls for a 21 minute defrost cycle. If it goes more than 30 mins, you need a new timer.

You should notice that the heaters will turn on, it takes about 3-5 mins for it to warm up, then shut down after all the frost is melted.

Pay attention to the water, make sure it is draining down to the pan mounted on top of the compressor.

Let me know what happens.

Also, Everything repairable on that ref is either in the compressor area or behind the cover in the freezer compartment. Also the thermostat area. the back of that ref does not come off.

Eugene -- Thank you so much. Can't wait to get home to do the diagnosis. Glad I didn't start unbolting things on the back looking for the thermostat timer.

Oh... a question: If I click to my heart's content on the timer and nothing happens, then can I assume the timer is bad? Will it be obvious if the timer is working (i.e. the evaporator fan in the freezer stops and the heater starts)? Sorry if I am belaboring the obvious.

I have a multimeter. I know I should be able to confirm the timer is bad using it. But am I looking for continuity? From what terminal to what terminal? Do I check whlie the timer is still installed and wired up or do I remove it for this test?

No need for all of that. The timer will click eventually, im 99% sure. I have rarely come across a ref that had a stuck contact like that.

The timer test is done while the timer is installed.

Im starting to believe that you dont have a defrost problem. Were your evap coils covered with frost? Like covered to the point that it would restrict air flow?