3.5 HP briggs n stratton compressor $^&$%&^%&^
 

Im at my wits end, Every time i get a gas powered anything with a pull cord it a problem. i drove out to commanche land and snagged this old sears briggs powered compressor 3.5 horse horizontal shaft from early 70's-started fine at the guys shop--tiny bit of smoke, Take it home and used it 4-5 times and suddenly it quit-Got more fuel and it seemed to have a problem getting its self priming circut to take fuel, --got it going again then the next time--it acts like it sucked trash up its tube So i took the tank and carb off, cleaned everything out, re welded the tab at the bottom of the tank that bolts to the block, got about a tablespoon of gritty rust dust out of the tank.
The carb--There aint much to one of these. I cleaned it with the carb cleaner-parts tag wire in all its little passages--The diaphram looked good so i reused it
At this point a frikkin go cart motor has kicked my ass and I have thrown up my hands, the only thing I can think could be a problem--The tube that goes down into the tank did not fit perfectly snugg in the hole on the carb and this seems to be a point where the siphoning is loosing its suction---But these were not glued in with sealer, So.....?????????

If it'll run on a continous burst of starter fluid it's fuel supply or carb adj issues....

I know the frustration; I only buy Stihl chainsaws and Honda lawnmowers and generators because of it.

Yes its fuel ,its got the mag and those dont really give people problems --it will only run for a few seconds when I pour a little gas-o -lene in the carb.

1 3/4 turns out on the carb setting. See if this link helps restore your confidence.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdFrniPyBwE

Try replacing some of the fuel lines? After a while those things can swell and close up, or get gunk stuck in them. When you took off the carb how caked up was the intake port?

There are none on these--The carb is bolted to the tank with a brass suction tube going down to the bottom of tank. The fuel intake hole had a little residual fuel "dust" but I cheaned it out thoroughly

Well thanks --this one is not applicable --different configuration/vertical. when this thig first messed up I saw all the u tube clips on my horizontal --but the carb fine adjustment still might be--I didn't mess with it so it should still run like before.

If the inside of the tank is rusty, you will need a new tank.

Your problem is that after you clean the carb, rust flakes clog it up again. It will run for a while but then rust will clog it up again.

Post a picture of the engine. I might be able to help.

Isn't there a very small weep hole on those old B & S carbs that gets plugged and caused the fuel not to flow in?

Gotcha, good luck!

ok which side crank cord side or muffler side?

OK heres pics of the*$%&^^&***!
Anyway its still the old craftsman copper color and ........ I got some old trucks I goota git fixed up!

This digi is slated for the rubbish bin.

yup. if the inside of the tank is rusty, then you need a new tank. expect to pay about $80.

you can try your best to clean the carb but it will just end up getting clogged again because of the rust flakes.

it ran in the store because the carb was newly rebuilt and the demostration of it running was clearly for 'show'.

you need a new tank my man.

Hey Ben, What's that diaphram part#?? there are supposedly only two.

Well the guy didnt even clean the carb--and when i got done--There was not any rust left loose in the tank--I am sure of that, Its kinda dry-er here and the kind of rust you are used to seeing in a fuel tank --its not as likely here--no "flakes" just a little "sand" The kind that could easily be taken care of with some shot pellets and -Shake it up- like a maraca...
I think.......

the motor series is 130000, the carb is part number 498298 and probably looks like this bad boy shown with the diaphrams

sand?

anyway, if you can get the tank really really clean then you should be fine.

clean the carb really well, replace the rubber diaphragms and you should be fine.

here's the diagram with the part numbers

I did take the crank cover off--and there is this pivoting sheet metal plate--that the little wire with the loop in it going out to the carb connects to-To the lever that has a screw for adjusting #97-What i dont know(because when that lever is pushed to where that screw could adjust anything -No way the engine will run).
But let me be a little more clear the wire going from the plate that pivots in and out under the crank cover--attaches to Two points out on the carb-- i guess its the governer linkage
.The lever out near the official choke #97 (cylinder in the end of the carb which U pull or push)
. and before that there is the loop in the wire with the spring running to the idle speed adjustment screw riding on the sloping bracket what appears to be #s 203 and 205.

Completely fill the tank with gas, almost to the point of overflowing. This will eliminate the fuel pump as a source of your trouble. If the engine runs, the metering system in the carb. is OK. If it doesn't, the problem is with the shorter of the two tubes or the main jet nozzles in the carb. body. If it ran OK with the tank overfilled, drain some fuel from the tank and run the engine on a prime. As it runs, look toward the center of the tank with the cap removed, and you should see fuel spilling from the well under the carb. If you don't, the problem is with the fuel pump, which involves the long tube, diaphragm, diaphragm spring and spring seat. The correct orientation from the carb. body is spring, seat, diaprhagm, and cover. If the spring is outside the diaphragm, the pump won't work.

Parts for these engines are readily available on ebay, just be sure you get the right tank if you need it. It looks like a 5HP tank, but the 5HP tank is too tall to fit your 3.5 engine.

Ok I appreciate that too. This site mentioned in the 4th paragraph -The brass tube is supposed to be press fit into the carb and not removed. Mine was loose and came right out.
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_pulsa-jet_horiz_fixed.asp
I know its fuel delivery and the tube top seems to be a place where the circut is loosing suction, Im thinking a bit of epoxy smeared around the tube and then stid in would seal it.
The diaphram was good and some say the diaphrams harden and wont work properly--but they dont harden instantly so I still thin this one doesn't need replacing, another site mentioned a black kill wire coming from the mag that can short out--no such wire on this horizontal.
and last the wire governor coming from that pivoting plate under the crank cover---I connects to the governor bracket( shaped like Nevada) and the engine will only start brifly when its in the open position in the pic--and when its like that the screw is no-where near its adjustment cam?????

I took the carb and tank off again. The tube inside had either rattled loose by itself or came out when I was removing the carb. Anyway I cleaned the orface and tube and applied a tiny bit of epoxy, the suction problem should be cured now.
The tank still had some rust (mud) from the bottom so-this time I got some crushed granite and sifted it to get a certain rubble size and ran a few batches thru it shaking it like mad-First batch brought out a lot of fine rust chalk.
The granite is perfect for cleaning tanks inside-sharp chips just hone any rust -anything right off. They get dull and you gotta swap out some new, and not much anything--Scale/ flakes could hang in there. Its clean bare metal inside now--I wish there was an over the counter tank sealer I could coat the inside with before I go and get some free gaskets /diaphram from a buddy(small motor man") he calls himself and put it back together. The carb must be a much earlier one. Its a lot simpler that the one in the link posted earlier--The tube is a single brass piece instead of the two piece and the secondary suction syphon is much simpler.

Its messin with me again-- I took it apart and found a chunk of something in the port coming fron the suction tube cleaned it out--and some fine rust in the bottom of the tank, I cleaned the tank again with the fine pulverized granite, made sure all the passages are clear-- and its still got a fuel suction problem, the diaphram was replaced last go around ,

I solved the tube rattling loose problem and it ran good evertime I ran it for months

I stumped again and sick of repeatedly taking apart and putting back together. I tried filling tank to the top, still no no good.http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...cons/icon8.gif