3.5 HP briggs n stratton compressor $^&$%&^%&^ - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

panZZer · #1 06-02-2011, 02:21 PM

Im at my wits end, Every time i get a gas powered anything with a pull cord it a problem. i drove out to commanche land and snagged this old sears briggs powered compressor 3.5 horse horizontal shaft from early 70's-started fine at the guys shop--tiny bit of smoke, Take it home and used it 4-5 times and suddenly it quit-Got more fuel and it seemed to have a problem getting its self priming circut to take fuel, --got it going again then the next time--it acts like it sucked trash up its tube So i took the tank and carb off, cleaned everything out, re welded the tab at the bottom of the tank that bolts to the block, got about a tablespoon of gritty rust dust out of the tank.
The carb--There aint much to one of these. I cleaned it with the carb cleaner-parts tag wire in all its little passages--The diaphram looked good so i reused it
At this point a frikkin go cart motor has kicked my ass and I have thrown up my hands, the only thing I can think could be a problem--The tube that goes down into the tank did not fit perfectly snugg in the hole on the carb and this seems to be a point where the siphoning is loosing its suction---But these were not glued in with sealer, So.....?????????

TMAllison · #2 06-02-2011, 02:46 PM

If it'll run on a continous burst of starter fluid it's fuel supply or carb adj issues....

I know the frustration; I only buy Stihl chainsaws and Honda lawnmowers and generators because of it.

panZZer · #3 06-02-2011, 03:08 PM

Yes its fuel ,its got the mag and those dont really give people problems --it will only run for a few seconds when I pour a little gas-o -lene in the carb.

TX76513 · #4 06-02-2011, 03:18 PM

1 3/4 turns out on the carb setting. See if this link helps restore your confidence.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdFrniPyBwE

tbomachines · #5 06-02-2011, 03:18 PM

Try replacing some of the fuel lines? After a while those things can swell and close up, or get gunk stuck in them. When you took off the carb how caked up was the intake port?

panZZer · #6 06-02-2011, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbomachines

Try replacing some of the fuel lines? After a while those things can swell and close up, or get gunk stuck in them. When you took off the carb how caked up was the intake port?

There are none on these--The carb is bolted to the tank with a brass suction tube going down to the bottom of tank. The fuel intake hole had a little residual fuel "dust" but I cheaned it out thoroughly

panZZer · #7 06-02-2011, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TX76513

1 3/4 turns out on the carb setting. See if this link helps restore your confidence.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdFrniPyBwE

Well thanks --this one is not applicable --different configuration/vertical. when this thig first messed up I saw all the u tube clips on my horizontal --but the carb fine adjustment still might be--I didn't mess with it so it should still run like before.

benhogan · #8 06-02-2011, 03:32 PM

If the inside of the tank is rusty, you will need a new tank.

Your problem is that after you clean the carb, rust flakes clog it up again. It will run for a while but then rust will clog it up again.

Post a picture of the engine. I might be able to help.

TX76513 · #9 06-02-2011, 03:32 PM

Isn't there a very small weep hole on those old B & S carbs that gets plugged and caused the fuel not to flow in?

tbomachines · #10 06-02-2011, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by panZZer

There are none on these--The carb is bolted to the tank with a brass suction tube going down to the bottom of tank. The fuel intake hole had a little residual fuel "dust" but I cheaned it out thoroughly

Gotcha, good luck!

panZZer · #11 06-02-2011, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TX76513

Isn't there a very small weep hole on those old B & S carbs that gets plugged and caused the fuel not to flow in?

ok which side crank cord side or muffler side?

panZZer · #12 06-02-2011, 05:04 PM

OK heres pics of the*$%&^^&***!
Anyway its still the old craftsman copper color and ........ I got some old trucks I goota git fixed up!

This digi is slated for the rubbish bin.

benhogan · #13 06-02-2011, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by panZZer

OK heres pics of the*$%&^^&***!
Anyway its still the old craftsman copper color and ........ I got some old trucks I goota git fixed up!

This digi is slated for the rubbish bin.

yup. if the inside of the tank is rusty, then you need a new tank. expect to pay about $80.

you can try your best to clean the carb but it will just end up getting clogged again because of the rust flakes.

it ran in the store because the carb was newly rebuilt and the demostration of it running was clearly for 'show'.

you need a new tank my man.

panZZer · #14 06-02-2011, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benhogan

If the inside of the tank is rusty, you will need a new tank.

Your problem is that after you clean the carb, rust flakes clog it up again. It will run for a while but then rust will clog it up again.

Post a picture of the engine. I might be able to help.

Hey Ben, What's that diaphram part#?? there are supposedly only two.

panZZer · #15 06-02-2011, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benhogan

yup. if the inside of the tank is rusty, then you need a new tank. expect to pay about $80.

you can try your best to clean the carb but it will just end up getting clogged again because of the rust flakes.

it ran in the store because the carb was newly rebuilt and the demostration of it running was clearly for 'show'.

you need a new tank my man.

Well the guy didnt even clean the carb--and when i got done--There was not any rust left loose in the tank--I am sure of that, Its kinda dry-er here and the kind of rust you are used to seeing in a fuel tank --its not as likely here--no "flakes" just a little "sand" The kind that could easily be taken care of with some shot pellets and -Shake it up- like a maraca...
I think.......