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Re-purposing old Hot Tub 220V connection...
I'm thinking of getting a welder for home projects and would like to get one for 220V. I have an old hot tub 220V connection going to the back yard that I don't need anymore. Would like to re-purpose it by re-wiring to a 220V plug in the garage. I found a place in the wall (behind the drywall) where it dives into my basement so I could catch it there and wire a plug. Trouble is that section of the wall has my gas pipe that passes right by (8inches away). I'm a little worried that those two are a little to close for comfort... Should I be worried about it?
I'll post pics later today to clarify. BTW: here is the welder I'm considering: http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/2462846965.html
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD ![]() 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K Last edited by MercFan; 07-14-2011 at 09:34 PM. |
#2
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No, unless you plan on crashing something into both the gas line and the electric cable at the same time. If you just want something to worry about encase the cable in a conduit.
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#3
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I finally got me a long awaited welding machine: it's a Lincoln AC/DC 225/150 stick welder. Got it from a retired mechanic - he used to weld his back hoe with it... solid heavy machine - looks brand new.
Now I quickly need to prepare my 220V connection. As mentioned in the original post I'm going to re-purpose the cable that runs under my basement to the outside. It's a thick shielded cable (about 3/4in thick) with three separate wires (red, black and white) in a heavy black plastic casing. My intention is to pull the cable out of the basement in one continuous piece, and keep the whole 20-25feet coiled up with a plug at the end so that I can extend the reach of my welder. I'm a bit concerned about coiling up a line that has 220V in it - it's shielded so it may be ok but I don't want to make a transformer out of it by some strange twist... Maybe I should think about an ON/OFF box that would cut off the power to cable coils until I need to use it... Thoughts?!
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD ![]() 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#4
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Quote:
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#5
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Dang it... you're right... I haven't measured it but I think it should all say 220V - same as the household dryer voltage. I've made the changes above.
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD ![]() 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
#6
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220/230/240 is all the same. You should have 240 volts if you check it with a meter. Check the size of the wire- it is probably a #6 or #8 if it went to a hot tub. If it is copper (which I'm assuming by the black casing- aluminum is usually in grey casing) than #8 is good for 50 amps and #6 is good for 70 amps. Your welder should have at least 50 amps feeding it. DO NOT coil up the excess wire and use it as an extension cord!! Shorten it to where you can install a 50 amp receptacle on the wall and make yourself an extension cord from 6-3 SO cord. You will be much happier with the flexible SO cord and you wont have to remember to shut off the breaker everytime you use the welder, and 6-3 romex is not rated for use where it is subject to physical damage. Hope that clears things up. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions- Scott
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1984 300TD 1981 240D |
#7
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Thx for the tips - James
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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD ![]() 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K |
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1984 300TD 1981 240D |
#9
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240 volts is still only 120V from ground. You just have two lines with opposite voltages on them that sum to 240V. Not more dangerous than 120V unless you connect yourself between the hot wires. If you're paranoid and don't want to use conduit, pull shielded (BX type) cable. (It's actually a requirement in some places like NYC.)
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