Hood stack joke:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/open-discussion/335084-exhaust-restriction-my-big-dodge-2.html

No problem, clutch issue solved! :P

I hate seeing contention over a repair thread. You DID, however say that you didn't think you'd bother with a flywheel resurface. What else was I supposed to think? I was trying NOT to be contentious. I can bow out of the thread if you wish.

As far as diagnosing a throw out bearing or anything else, I personally would have to experience and feel the vibration/chatter/whatever myself, but when it comes to a clutch issue that requires work, there's not too much point in trying to diagnose before you get it apart, since it's best to do it ALL while you're there IMHO.

...and clutch issue created, i.e. lack thereof. I'll swap clips when you put a hood stack on Mrs. Swamp's van :D.

Challenge accepted!!! :cool: :D

All right! Pics or it didn't happen :D.

The VW Golf mk2 service manual talked about this exact problem in one chapter, the excerpt was that the clutch friction plate hub was sticking on the splines of the transmission causing the juddering. They even offered a nickel plated clutch hub (I think aircooled VWs also used that - their splines were similar in some years to the FWD transmission too - I think it was called O2O transmission or something.

To remedy this, most mechanics in countries where there are a lot of 3 pedal cars buff the splines and apply some antisieze type compound on it or some even use the same grease as Honda motorcycle shaft drive rear hub take.

The VW thing maybe off from this because the toyota uses a pressure plate on the outside of the clutch and the bearing is pressing against the fingers of the pressure plate levering it off the friction plate. The VW FWD is not like this, it has its pressure plate bolted to the engine and flywheel bolted to the pressure plate - the clutch bearing is on the tail of the transmission and pushes a cup shaped plate via a pushrod to disengage the clutch. The concept is the same - but this remedy that VW addressed may or may not work on your case.

That's interesting about the VWs. I'd probably be replacing the thing.

Looking around, I can get the LuK clutch kit -- with pressure plate, disc, release bearing, and pilot bearing -- for $88. I can get a slave refurbish kit for $13. I'll call around, but I think that I can get the flywhe resurfaced around here for ~$20-$30.

Am I missing something? Something I haven't thought of?

I change the oil in the gearbox, but you can do that whenever. But I'll usually drain the trans before I pull it down so when you take the half shafts out you don't make a mess.

Fresh fluid will be good for the transmission too.

I did the fluid about 15,000 miles ago, but I see your point about not making a mess... maybe I'll go with Redline this time...

I would probably just drain it through a coffee filter and reuse the fluid.

Yeah, that would be cheaper... although I'd just use a paper towel. Why waste a filter :P?

[flame suit on]

I've used blue shop towels to filter a WVO/D2 mix before they worked just fine. It just takes 5 years to drop through unless you push the fluid with a pump.

Not that you're necessarily planning on it, but if you do end up deciding to resurface the flywheel, you should plan on replacing the bolts (not to mention you'll have to find a way to hold the engine from turning). I don't know about Toyota, but many manufacturers consider those bolts single-use.

toyota are cheapies - and the corolla was made for countries where mechanics only have basic hand tools and no lifts and bolts are always reused - so in proper sense you are supposed to replace them with new - however you can reuse them if they are not deformed, a bit of threadlock helps too.

In the US - those bolts are cheap and only a drive away to the dealer.