As mentioned, full quality clutch set, the LuK sets are excellent. Of course, the friction disk and pressure plate need changed, also i'd do the pilot bearing, throwout bearing, slave cylinder and have the flywheel surfaced. Does this car have a dual-mass flywheel? Hopefully not but if it is, it should be checked for condition and tightness and replaced if its loose. Doesn't hurt to clean out the bellhousing good. Diesel, mineral spirits or kerosene and some brushes work great on nasty clutch dust and grime and a final spray off with brake cleaner. Clean the trans splines very well and the pilot bearing bore before you tap the new bearing in. You can rent pilot bearing pullers or you can sometimes pack the shaft hole and cavity with grease and find a rod or dowel that fit tight enough to seal and whack it with a hammer, hydraulic action can push the bearing out, may need to repack it a time or two also. Use a tap to clean the crankshaft threads of old locking compound. If you do get new flywheel bolts (should) take an old one bolt and cut a slot down the threads (hacksaw/dremel/air tools) to make a chaser to clean the threads. The new bolts may already have a locking compound on them. Consult Toyota's data or as a dealer technician if you need any if they are dry, only trust Factory Toyota data on that, not a 3rd part manual. Alldata is usually ok though. If the rear main oil seal on the engine is cheap/easy to change, I would consider it. Same for the trans front seal. I would change the CV shaft seals on the trans. Check your CV boots over well, if there is any deterioration, I would consider changing the boots and washing out the old grease and repack with fresh high quality CV joint grease. It may come with a good boot kit and circlips and axle nuts. You can usually easily disassemble the joints pretty easily for proper cleaning/relubing and squeeze excess grease into the boot upon reassembly. Often the center "spider" of a CV joint is held on with a snap ring or circlip tension. On the latter, cut the old boot off, and tap the joint off the shaft by hitting the center spider, NOT the ball-cage or outer housing. I have renewed a bunch of CV's, its a little messy but not hard. Make sure theres no deep wear indentions in the components. The trans end may have a tri-roller type joint, those just clean and relube. Wouldn't hurt to do a cost analysis on boot kits and your time VS. new shafts, sometimes they are cheap! Check your bearing hub condtion. Be careful putting the CV's back into the trans without damaging the seals and make sure oil type seals riding surfaces have a bit of oil on them so the seal doesn't run dry. Good time to make sure motor/trans mounts are in good shape. Make sure your shifter linkages and cables are looking good. This is a good time to knock out a lot of preventitive care and inspection of parts since you like this car. The LuK sets often come with spline lube for the hub/input shaft. Sometimes they don't include enough even though it is a very sparingly applied lube. A high quality anti-seize works as well or better too. Bostik Never-Seez;) Either or, put a skim on the shaft and the hub splines and work it on and off the splines to work it into the lands & grooves of both parts. Take note of the disk as the original comes off, often they cannot be flipped over, the disk must go on one way only and sometimes they are marked for which side faces what.
I have seen far too many people needlessly fight the transmission trying to get them back on. Usually its because the disk isn't centered close enough. The plastic disk centering tool most kits come with are a loose fit. The hot ticket is get the disk in with the tool and get the pressure plate on the dowel pins and the bolts just threaded in. Usually & hopefully the disk is still free to move with the pressure plate just stuck on. (For sake of ease, hopfully your car doesn't use a SAC- self adjusting clutch, If it does, please PM me, there are some important special tips for installing one. You will know if it is, it will have a special plate over the pressure plate fingers when you open the box) Anyhow, You will notice that you can lift the centering tool & disk up/down & left/right because of the sloppy fit. Use your calibrated eye and move it up/down/left/right till it appears centered by visual reference to the hole in the pressure plate. With it centered, evenly start tightening the pressure plate bolts down a little at a time in a cross-bolt pattern. Sometimes a helper is nice for this but I have done without most the time. This will make it SO MUCH easier getting the trans back on the dowels. Some cars the dowels have sharp 90° edge, it helps to dress that edge over smooth/round a slight bit and same for the holes the dowels go in, again makes your life easier and does no harm putting a little chamfer on them. Goes without saying, don't use the bellhousing bolts to suck the trans up tight, good way to damage stuff. If you can't push it up flat to the engine all the way, something isn't right. Having a transverse engine bar will make this job much easier, the HF one isn't too bad
1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar but at $80, might try to borrow one/rent one or there's some DIY's for making them. You can probably get by with engine hoists/jacks but the bar is much easier.
There's a bunch of tips accumulated over many years of working on cars for ya! Don't be afraid to ask if you run into any problems! Forgive me if you are well aware of all that stuff, I don't know your background/experience and things at your disposal so I just tossed it all in! I'll include a pic of a SAC clutch below so you know what one looks like to compare to. They have a unique installation procedure that if not followed can ruin the brand new pressure plate and make it useless.:eek: I doubt the Yota has one but never know...
