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  #1  
Old 07-17-2004, 11:09 AM
dtf dtf is offline
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Trouble shooting an Electric stove.

I have a JennAir electric range, 20 years old and the cartridges are loose and not making contact with the socket. I plan on pulling the socket and check those connections. When I check the range after I power it down to make sure it is off what do I set my DMM to read >200V AC or >200V DC? I would think DC right since it goes to a heating coil?
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  #2  
Old 07-17-2004, 11:26 AM
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I think I'd use 240 volts AC. I've never seen any device to convert from AC to DC on an electric stove. Most of the problems I have found in older electric stoves have been broken wires in the back panel at the bayonet fittings.
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  #3  
Old 07-17-2004, 12:24 PM
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If you are having trouble shooting an electric stove, use a .300 Winchester Magnum. Goes right thru those bastards.
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  #4  
Old 07-17-2004, 08:00 PM
MedMech
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Quote:
Originally posted by KirkVining
If you are having trouble shooting an electric stove, use a .300 Winchester Magnum. Goes right thru those bastards.
or on yourself it's quicker but not self cleaning.



Hire someone who knows what their doing, a bad contact on you JenAir creates heat which also happens to be the source of 90% of all home fires.
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  #5  
Old 07-18-2004, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by KirkVining
If you are having trouble shooting an electric stove, use a .300 Winchester Magnum. Goes right thru those bastards.
Dang! I wanted to say that!
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  #6  
Old 07-18-2004, 02:07 PM
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dtf,

I have one of those and had the same problem. I figured when the "digital display" for time and and the like in the center went dead when I tripped the breaker, the machine had no power. I was also able to reach the plug, which the electrician who installed it put on the floor, and unplugged the unit. Maybe I was lucky though.

I removed and checked the female connector in the stove, and it was ok. I checked the burner elements with another half section of the stove top, and they were ok. It turned out to be the parts inside the half stove top section that the elements plug into. I bought a new "empty" unit with the permanently installed burner elements sticking out of a glass top surface. No more problems.

Most of the problems come from cleaning the older half stove top unit up and the frequent removal of the two burner elements, required to accomplish that. It seems the ones with the flat surfaces and non-removable elements are easier to keep clean, and are more robust. Good luck, Jim
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  #7  
Old 07-20-2004, 09:03 PM
dtf dtf is offline
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Thanks Jim. I have a '2 ring on cartridge' element stove. On my unit I think it is the ceramic piece where the cartridge plugs into is loose or covered in spark spots and not making contact. It won't work even with a newly rebuilt cartridge. I'm kind of anal about keeping the stove clean since I do all the cooking for the family and they come out often for cleaning.
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dtf
1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles)
1995 E300 Diesel (228,000)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000)
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop
2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army
BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (175,034 miles)
2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 128,000 miles
2018 Dodge Ram 21,000 miles
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  #8  
Old 07-20-2004, 09:19 PM
dtf dtf is offline
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Hi Tkamiya, I only want to verify power is off to the stove after I throw the breaker so I can remove a piece from the stove and check it for damage. I understand your point too. Thanks.
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dtf
1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles)
1995 E300 Diesel (228,000)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000)
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop
2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army
BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (175,034 miles)
2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 128,000 miles
2018 Dodge Ram 21,000 miles
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