right!

I have got my 190e 2.5 16v self booked in for a track day in Feb 05, the Brands Hatch Indy circuit and hopefully the ring in spring!

I have a budget of £400 to spend on the car to improve it so I get as much from the day as I can.

At the moment, it has stock front shocks, koni -40mm springs with 1/2 a coil cut and 1-bump pads. The rear is the SLS with the -40 koni springs, 1-bump pads and a lengthened SLS rod to lower the rear further. It sits perfectly, slight rake, very low at the front.

Wheels are 17x8 ET35 with 215/40 tyres. Tyres will be replaced for good quality intermediates outside the above budget.

Brakes are stock apart from EBC Greenstuff pads all round and stainless braided hoses.

Most of the front end has been re-bushed to original spec, anti roll bar, strut mounts, etc, etc. Rear is mostly stock, has had propshaft donuts recently.

All in a very well maintained car with the above simple mods.

In terms of breaking/suspension the car handles ok at the moment, even though its low you do get a little roll in hard corners and swap from hard one way to the other as the weight transfers from side to side is a little uneasy. It’s very low and also quite bumpy, bump steer under hard breaking is apparent but not so bad on a smooth racetrack I'd imagine. Its quite precise to steer and turn in but the back end seems to wallow more than the front…..

The breaks are ok, strong pedal feel but does get hot and spongy after a few high speed stops.

SO, bearing in mind the following;

Its a daily driven car with occasional track use and I ideally want the car to be low as possible as it looks cool but I am happy to raise the height of the car to reach better handling, the £400 budget is there and will be spent on the car anyway but I was interested to see what people think it makes more sense to spend the money on first.

So, my ideas at the moment are:

I will be fabricating my own strut brace – cost approx £20

Koni suspension, on car top adjustable fronts, off car adjustable rears, 40mm lowering springs. Cost £380.

Spax suspension, on car top adjustable fronts, off car adjustable rears, 30mm lowering springs. Cost £325.

Blackstuff drilled and grooved brake disks front and rear and new greenstuff pads and high dot fluid change. cost £290

So, where would you lot spend your money and on what? Or anyone got a good track car, what you running?

Discuss!

Thanks in advance for any input.

Steve

__________________
Steve Howson

http://www.markthomastrimming.com/storage/sigpic.jpg

www.mercedes-cosworth.co.uk

The OE front anti-sway bar is about the only WEAK item on the car!
OF course make sure that the valve clearance has bees checked & adjusted to a "loose" spec if needed!

Have FUN!

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Err.. make sure your spare has air in?
Make sure the heated rear window is not switched on?

OK I couldn't think of anything, and really just wanted to say: let us know how the day goes and how the car goes!

Russ

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190E's:
2.5-16v 1990 90,000m Astral Silver
2.0E 8v 1986 107,000m Black 2nd owner
http://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall.jpghttp://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall2.jpg

Green Stuff is a street pad - I recommend you run the Red Stuff, based upon what your car weighs (I think the Black pads are for much heavier cars). You will assuredly fry the Greens within a few laps, but you should get a full day out of the Reds (I used to get several days out of a set of Reds in my 500E, but given my heavy car & higher speeds of late, they last 45-50 miles or one session - my last time at The Glen I burned up 3 sets!).

Another thought: try to remember to compress your braking zones...brake as hard as you can, for as short a time as you can, and you will dramatically improve your braking components' lives. Plus, 'threshold braking' is a lot more repeatable than a not-very-consistent 60-80% braking effort.

Lastly, remember to look far, far ahead, as your car will go where you're looking. And have fun! I understand that's a fabulous track

__________________
"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo

124 24v Sportline front roll bar, EVO 1 OR 2 rear bar if MB will let you spend your hard eaned cash on one! 24v 124 estate front and rear brakes. The above does vastly improve bodyroll and understeer and the 24v brake calipers are cheap to source used. Hope you crush a few M3 egos cheers Linds

I agree with Michael. I think your fun is going to be limited by the brakes, especially if you have limited track experience.

If the green's are a "street" pad, I would get something more agressive. I would also flush the system completely with a good quality brake fluid (Motul or Castrol blue). Ducting air to the front rotos will help alot, but that gets a bit more involved.

Try to work on maintaining momentum and minimizing your brake usage and above all being smooth.

Are you using the factory seats and five point belts? Best to make the car as comfortable as possible so you can focus on driving. A more aggressive driver's seat would help.

If the suspension components are in good shape, I would follow the Doc' advice and swap out the anti roll bars with something bigger and leave the
rest alone.

Your biggest improvement in lap times will come from seat time which will result in an increased confidence in both the car and your abilities.

Have fun!

Tinker