I'm borrowing this photo from a post made by speedybenz



has anyone made them? it looks like a simple construction.

Chevolta suggested using a 3 piece heim instead of the style of heim used in speedybenz's photo. I found heim joints that are rated to 40,000lbs.

It seems that a simple camber bar could be made rather easily. Take a rod of steel, bore a hole in the centers of both ends, tap both ends. Paint the rod, install heim joints, install on car and adjust accordingly.

am I missing something?

I would much rather make something myself, than pay for something.

Not so easy to bore a hole. You can buy tubing but it's difficult to find the correct ID for the tap. Also hard to tap it straight. They sell "bungs" that are weld-on threaded ends, I think they run about $15ea and work real well. I've made rods by welding long nuts to the ends, or a regular nut in light duty applications. They also sell rod ends that are solid (no ball) if you don’t need side to side movement.
Another really good option is use urethane bushings to make custom ends. I’ve used generic bushings from the local off-road shop, and speedwaymotors.com has some really stiff urethane bushings.

The link that you sent me has the rod's that are identical to the one in the photo. I want to call up and ask what the cost of the rods are from that shop.

I also want to find some local racing shops in my area that do circle track or outlaw racing, ask them if they could help me in my search of parts.

I think the rods are like $10-20 ea. 8" thru 22" if I remember correctly. I believe the aluminum rods are stronger, they're like 10 times thicker.
A very good source of info for people like you and I who like to make/mod stuff ourselves is Circle Track Magazine. They have great articles on all kinds of stuff, but look at the ads and order catalogs from these places. There are several rod end mfgs and they will send free catalogs, but look at everything like A&A mfg, Jaz products, etc. If they say send $5 for a catalog in the ad, then phone in the order. Only once was I ever asked to pay.
Distributors like the following are great sources:
http://store.summitracing.com
http://www.speedwaymotors.com
http://www.portcityracing.com
Port City’s catalog is a must have item for you.

I called up four wheeler parts warehouse, which is a local store here in san jose, he said they have heavy duty heim joints, and he was telling me that they also have a similar thing to a heim joint that is rebuildable. I am going to go there and check it out. The guy that I talked to said he knew of several places that custom fabricated parts for the 4x4's and he will point me their way. They also have bushing ends with the polyuerathane sp? bushings inside of them.

I searched around on the net and found a couple of bearing houses here in san jose that I can goto and learn about the heim joints.

Thanks for the help chevota, i'll let you know how things go for me.

Just a note; these look real tempting, but I tried 'em on on my chevota and they only lasted a few days before the urethane squirted out the side:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp/strBase_List./hilt./source.2191/base_no.91002090/str_base_no.000%2DCATALOG+RACE%2C1170702%2C1170808L%2C1750100STD%2C1750310%2C1750326%2C1750705%2C175 6041%2C3159604%2C5464108%2C91001500%2C91002090%2C91002326%2C91636055%2C/header_title.Race+Products%2DRod+Ends/page_name.prod%5Flist%5Fdisplay%2Easp/search_type.L2%7E107/search_option./deptsearch./deptSearch_id.2/dept_id.L2%7E107/dept_id_p./dept_name./dept_name_p.Race+Products/ShowImages.yes/sq.0/cont.1/intPgNo.1/redirect./qx/product.htm

Part #91002090 if that massive link doesn't work.

Custom fab is usually very $$$.
I've used Rancho urethane bushings from ORW to make custom ends. They'll come in a pack for a specific vehicle with no measurements so you just have to root thru 'em to see what might work. A shock "eye" might work too. So many options.....

I was just looking at that.

I think that that might work really well, seeing as the original part is just a rubber bushing with a steel tube through it, as you can see on the original part in the picture.

There are a lot of options, and all I have is time right now, so I am going to think about it and call around to find the most cost effective means to make them.

That massive link looks like it would work good, the down side is that it is only rht threaded, and i need a rht thread and a lft thread

If you have a buddy with a metal lathe, making and drilling the tubes would be no problem. They can even put the pretty knurl around the tube if you like.

My brother in law used to have two different metal lathes and he enjoyed making all sorts of stuff for me. He changed businesses, so I now no longer have such a resource.

Good luck,

Sorry, I guess that just didn't come out right. By "massive link" I meant the web link. When I created the post it was like 500 characters long so I wasn't sure how it would show up. Apparently it worked fine. Anyway, the rod end in that link with the red urethane insert is the one I said failed in a few days. It's a cool idea, but light duty only.

Good Luck Gentleman,

Remember in your search that the bolts on your MB are metic so you have to take that into account as you work through your design.

Also remember these parts will see lots of water and other road junk, so they need to be pretty corrosion resistant. It is one of the reasons I use Stainless Steel.

Overall it looks like you are on the right track.

Jeff

When I made all the links for my 190, I used the 1" aluminum swaged tubes and heims from Rod End Supply in KS. The tubes come in 1/2" lengths up to whatever and use a 5/8" heim with a 1/2" bore for the bolts. I just drill my subframe to accept the 1/2" bolts and forget the metric heims as there is not that much difference from 10mm to 1/2" to worry about. I also use aluminum
heims with delrin liners rated at 15,000 lbs and this works with 275/40-17 slicks on 9.5" wheels and over 440hp! Think you would be fine for the street with aluminum.

Tobias MB
190/5.8

Jeff does Make a Great Camber Arm!
They Work Perfect..NO Noise and are worth the Money
To Make Them add up the HOURS it will take to source the parts
and to make them..Jeffs are a Great Value

I don't mean this in the wrong way but you can order all the parts from one source. So I don't see myself spending "hours
" sourcing parts, there are 5 parts in total involved, a radius arm, a heim joint of right hand thread, a heim joint of left hand thread, and two jam nuts. This stuff is common to circle track racers as chevota pointed out.

The reason I have any "hours" into it is because I like to research and learn new things whenever I do a project.

There are a lot of different ways you can setup the bars, yes Jeff does have a good product, however it does not mean its the best product out there. Currently I am looking at using heims with a 1" interior bore (need to make sure they will clear), taking 1" round stock and making a "bushing" out of that for the interior bore and drilling out the bolt size that I need for the mount. On the 300e the camber bar mounts with a 17mm bolt to the hub, and a 19mm bolt to the frame (It might be a 20mm, I'm not 100% on that right now). If I made a bar like that, the heims are rated to 76,000lbs (using QA1 rod ends) would stand up to a lot of force.

I am currently intrested in the rod end with the poly center, it looks to mimic the original parts construction. I could make a link for about the same amount of money as what the MB camber link would cost, but mine would be adjustable.

There is something similar to a heim joint called a johnny joint (I think that is the name of it) that is used in a lot of custom 4x4 suspensions, the nice part about that joint is that is completely rebuildable unlike a standard heim.

But like I said earlier, there are a lot of options.

Speedybenz did you use rod end seals? dirt track racers use them to keep the dirt from working into the ball of the heim. I didn't see anything like that on the rods that you posted. Have you had any troubles with dirt scaring the ball inside the heim?