![]() |
|
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
![]()
__________________
Jim |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
check with the haynes UK publishing company on the internet. I bought the book and it made here to SC in about a week and was 40 dollars. also, there is a write up at www.continentalimports.com
Rob actually the write up is for the M104 |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
head work
To all you guys out there doing head work: Since you have to really Bust your a$$ to get them out in the first place, you should get them over to a A1 class automotive machine shop, have em glass peened, boiled, and all valve quides, valves, springs, keepers, and stem seals and NEW HEAD BOLTS CHANGED. If they magna flux there, have them check for combustion dome cracks. If you have cracks in the domes, you'll need a different head to RB. Your original head bolts are already stretched, and are no longer able to maintain retorquing specs. The shop must also provide the 3 angle valve grind in conjuction with the new valves, as per original OEM spec, with accompaning hand lapping and leak down testing. Its also certain that the flat mated surface of your original head is going to be somewhat warped, thats guarenteed. So a final flycut of hopefully a few thousands will insure the heads flatness. Grease the NEW head bolts with Bostick anti-seize, and do the old 3 step torque-down and recommended sequence tightening procedure. If you do it this way, re-torquing isnt necessary. A new cam chain wouldnt be a bad idea at this time, you could probably fish it through and use a stakeable master link to connect the new chain up again. Under no circumstances allow the machine shop to supply their own guides, as OEM guides are a very special alloy probably (nickel-silicon). Even though you might spend much more for the new valves and OEM guides, ITS WORTH IT, as its better to have a new valve than one that goes south due to micro fissures, and eats up a piston and cylinder. Buy all the parts ON line if you want to save the bucks, and only OEM. (www.*************** is the least expensive so far) If you have a few bucks more left after all this, do all the rubber parts that are around the intake manifold including the 2 big idle solenoid bypass hoses. This information comes from 30 years of RB'ing my own and friends, cars and bikes, and its a crying shame that if you skimp just a few bucks on any item just mentioned to do this kind of work, quess what? That heads coming off again, from something you missed.....
Dont forget a OEM MB head gasket, Ive seen some after market ones out there, FERGETABOUTIT........ PS: Its critical you dont over flex all your original wiring harnesses to sneak that head out, the wiring insulation is most probably very brittle by now, and you will only create total havoc, if you arent careful. By cracking insulation here and there, you will be creating shorts to all your sensors and modules. Take a deep breath and good luck..... Dave R. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Instructions for replacing Head Gasket on 91 300te
I am going to pull the head from my 91 300TE, so I could also use that info if you are still willing to send it out.
joelhartmans@live.com Thanks!! |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
hello,
I know this is old post. But I was hoping if anyone could email me the information as well. I just took the car into a shop and was told the bad new that my head gasket needs replacing. Any information would be great. I have a M103. thank you. scrap@creativecardstudio.com George |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
You might try the following site:
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/Library.html It's my understanding the guy who set this up intended for this to serve as a user-friendly index to the not-so-user-friendly MB CD-Rom. In many cases the actual doc for a specfic task is available at this site. For example, the MB task number for a 124 model cyl. head removal is 01-4150. That doc is at the site above, BUT there are many other tasks involved and you may or may not find them all there. Good luck.
__________________
'91 300-SEL |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Can a set be emailed to my email? rhutt7@hotmail.com. Thank You!
I'm also looking for what to look out for; do you have to un hook the fuel injection on the head and the electrical harnesses; we have 1990 300e 103 motor. Thanks!
__________________
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium]79 240D 243 k O'L LIGHTING[/FONTtakes a lickin keeps on ticken] |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I can't help commenting. I worked on cars in my teens , when I was broke.
My friend and I rebuilt a couple of engines. These were simple engines like 56 ford 6 cylinder, Chev V8 265. Now we come to the M103 and the question of risk versus reward. It isn't as simple as it once was. You need some fairly good mechanical skills and the right tools. You need some special tools which are going to cost some bucks and likely never be used again. You need some skill in sealing the front timing cover. The risk is that you really screw it up. It's an expensive engine, with expensive components. Fail to do it exactly right and you may have yourself a broken camshaft, not cheap. I have an M103 that has 231K miles on it. It has a very minute head gasket leak. My local indy has quoted me something like $1200 to R&R the head and have a valve job done. I will also buy new injectors, lifters, and valve springs which will be extra. Now this guy is very experienced and charges a relatively low per hour rate. I would think long and hard before I dove into this project. Just my thought about this particular project. Steve |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I just did the head, I bought a good used one and rebuilt it(mine needed guides real bad) it is a long job but nothing a good DIY guy can't do, anyhow I just finished putting my old head back toghether and am going to sell it, I have seen prices from $800 to $1400, I will sell it for $600 Email me
rksilvers@hotmail.com |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Helpful to all if it gets posted here
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I have a set of new Head Gasket for M103 that I can sell you as I am not in need of a head gasket job right now (knock on wood). Send me a private message for details. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
replacing headgasket on 1991 300 e 4matic
please send me how to instuctions to replace headgasket to my email
thankyou |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|