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  #1  
Old 11-14-2003, 08:16 PM
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Question Power Steering Problem

My power steering pump is leaking. Here is a photo of the leak. Can anyone tell me why it's leaking, and how to fix it?

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Power Steering Problem-110f03-11-14-17-49-.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 11-14-2003, 08:24 PM
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Looks like something with the fitting is bad, either it only needs to be tightened or you need a whole new line.
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  #3  
Old 11-14-2003, 08:37 PM
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How would I tighten it? Would I have to remove the line in any way, and if I need a new line, about how much would it cost?
-Joe
P.S.
Thanks for the extra quick response. Less than 10 minutes. That's why I like mercedesshop.com
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-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.
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  #4  
Old 11-14-2003, 08:52 PM
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Not to sound like a jerk, but all you need is a wrench that'll fit. It's a quick and easy job to tighten it and you need to take it off unless you have to change it. Most of the people here in this part of the forum are DIY'ers.
You just got lucky with my quick answers because I was just in the neighborhood.
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84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012
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  #5  
Old 11-14-2003, 10:47 PM
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If tightening the fitting doesn't slow/stop the leak, then the steel portion of the line might be cracked from vibration. I can't recall off the top of my head, but I think the fitting is a 17mm. Would suggest using a flare wrench rather than an open end.
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  #6  
Old 11-15-2003, 06:11 PM
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Yep, it's a 17MM. I checked that today when I worked on the car.
A flare wrench would be the best tool for the job.
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  #7  
Old 11-15-2003, 06:41 PM
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power steering leak

I had a similar leak last year on my 420 sel. I took it to a free dealer sponsered safety check. It was a small leak, add fluid once a month, no problem. The tech. checking my car spotted it, and volunteered to fix it. He put a wrench on it and tightened the *** out of it. Now I had a major leak, needed new fluid every 25 miles or so. New hoses fixed it. However, I would first loosen and remove and inspect the fitting for cracks or other damage, then tighten it. Good luck
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  #8  
Old 11-16-2003, 12:40 AM
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Before I go and try this DIY repair, I have some questions, this being the first time I've done such a thing. How do I exactly remove the line, including the steel portion to tighten it up? Do I need any other tools besides the 17MM flare wrench?
-Joe
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  #9  
Old 11-16-2003, 01:06 AM
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Using the 17mm flare wrench, loosen the fitting by turning counter clockwise (CCW), once loosened lift the tubing away from the pump, slip fitting toward the rubber section then clean and inspect the steel tubing in the area of the fitting and the actual flare. If no cracks, abrasions or other probable leaking spots, install tube into the pump, seated firmly, then start the fitting. Tighten down using your fingers to ensure you aren't crossthreading, then tighten using the 17mm flare. Check for leaks.
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'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

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  #10  
Old 11-16-2003, 05:54 PM
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Well, I took a look at it today, and it appears the leak is occuring where the steel portion and rubber portion of the line meet. That photo wasnt the leak I think, but where the fluid ran down to from the leak. I think it's a loose connection now. So any ideas on what I need to tighten up or possibly replace?
-Joe
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Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.
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  #11  
Old 11-16-2003, 07:30 PM
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If the leak is coming from where the rubber hose meets the steel tubing you are going to have to replace the whole line.
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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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  #12  
Old 11-21-2003, 06:33 PM
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Does anyone have the part number for the line so I can order a new one? And how easy or hard is it to replace the line? Keep in mind, I'm a novice DIY mechanic. :p
-Joe
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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.
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  #13  
Old 11-21-2003, 09:05 PM
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That depends on which line it is.

If it is the delivery line (high pressure) the # is 126 997 22 82, easy to tell because the steel portions are swaged to the rubber.

If it is the return line (low pressure), as evidenced by the rubber being secured with a hose clamp, then the part # for the steel ppipe stub is 126 460 00 24.

Hope this helps.
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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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  #14  
Old 11-21-2003, 09:50 PM
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Here's another photo. You can see the leak has been circled. I believe it is the delivery line. Correct me if I am wrong.
-Joe
Attached Thumbnails
Power Steering Problem-leak.jpg  
__________________
'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.
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  #15  
Old 11-22-2003, 01:59 AM
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Yup, that's the delivery line.

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'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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