Pics of Steering Box Swap

[bodyart27]

Well I finally had an opportunity to install the reconditioned steering box in my 84 300SD. So the first couple of pics show that even though I had thouroughly cleaned the box just a few days before, you can see from the top that there is a leak near the steering shaft (back of the box) and on the bottom, it's making a big mess.

The other pics are of the maval part number, and a pic of all the new hoses, box, genuine mercedes steering fluid (I would only need one bottle), a new seal for the cap and filter for the power steering pump.

[bodyart27]

On one of these pics I tried to capture the part numbers on the actual unit - hope it comes across.

The actual install has a couple of tricky points. If you are going to replace the hoses, keep in mind how they are routed from the top down to the box. Do one at a time. Also I noticed on the sticker on the new unit that if you do not replace with new fluid that you void your lifetime warranty from maval.

You will almost certainly need an impact gun to get the three 17mm bolts off that are located in the wheel well that hold the box to the chassis. So, remember to get the wheel lug nuts loose before jacking up the car as it is tight in there with the wheel on.

Also you definitely need a pitman arm puller. There is a better designed "cupped" version out there, though I used a piece of crap one that I was able to find at a local parts store. The pitman arm is step one. If you can't get that off, no need to do anything. else. Also you need a 36mm socket to get that pitman arm locking nut back on. I had a oversize set from Harbour Frieght (Pittsburg brand). Cheap one time use set, though it did not break or mar the nut. Still, something to put on my list - need big sockets

The lines themselves were pretty easy, the torque specs are lower than you think (from memory they were like 30-40 Nm). The low pressure hose is actually bulk hose that you can buy by the meter.One meter is ample

There are some alignment marks on the pitman arm - not hard to get right - just be aware.

The trickiest part for me was getting the steering wheel shaft to slide far enough down onto the steering box splines (see pic). I had to grease the splines, try to spread the coupling a little with a screwdriver blade (yes, the two allen bolts were out) and to get it to go the final bit use a pry up against the firewall (ouch). I noticed that unless the coupling is seated far enough in that, the allen bolts won't insert (smart germans).

[bodyart27]

To bleed the system you just need to run the car, turn the wheels and check and refill the resevoir a couple of times. There was some fluid already in the box so I did not have to use more than one bottle of MB fluid.

I'll report back after some road testing to see if I need an alignment.

[KCampbell]

Do you notice any difference in steering play with the reman unit in place?

The procedure actually sounds very much like my old Ford pickup. I had trouble getting the steering column onto the splined shaft until I loosened the bolts securing the box to the chassis, if the splined shaft isn't perfectly in line with the column it won't go together. I found myself tempted to use force to make it fit, but then took a step back and jiggled the alignment of the box and column - "snick" it just fell together.

It seems that all manufacturers require new fluid to preserve the warranty, the NAPA box for the truck was just the same.

Kevin

[bodyart27]

steering is nice and tight... definately need an alignment as my steeering wheel is cocked - which will drive me nuts!

just a little steering input is all that is needed - and no leaks!

[joshhol]

Thanks for those pics. I'm rebuilding the front end on the 115 and will be removing the steering box shortly.

how much was your steering box?
I am getting an ever increasing amount of slop in my steering and it drives me nuts becuase its not adjustable.
This is wear where the adjuster cannot adjust.
Anyway...was curious on the price...thanks!

[bodyart27]

I will get I about $200 back for the core. I have a friend from high school that works at a part store that helped me with the price. Unfortunately, I don't think they order enough german stuff to get the best discount. 90% of what I order from him they get from WorldPac - evidently a pretty big distributor

Very pricey
Have to see what connections dad has
Halsey Import Parts is a good supplier around here...good foreign stuff...mainly german
the only place I have ever rolled into and parked my VW in a line of 15+ VW's

Anywho, do you know of anyone rebuilding their own steering box?
I don't know what goes into it...or if you can get just the worn parts...
at 600+ I would be tempted to sit down and do some reading/experimenting.
Yes I know its steering and its very important that it work flawlessly...
I built my bug from the ground up...so no worries

Originally Posted by bodyart27

To bleed the system you just need to run the car, turn the wheels and check and refill the resevoir a couple of times. There was some fluid already in the box so I did not have to use more than one bottle of MB fluid.

I'll report back after some road testing to see if I need an alignment.

That is the most spotless engine compartment I have ever seen!!!!

[R Leo]

Thanks for the write-up.

One of my parts cars, has a fairly good steering box that I plan on swapping out with Marlene's. This will help lots!

[bodyart27]

Originally Posted by Brandon314159

That is the most spotless engine compartment I have ever seen!!!!

I was wondering if anyone would notice!

I'm a firm believer that a diesel engine bay can be as clean as a gasser.

Engine Detailing... of those darn leaks!

Back to the grind....

Are the innards of a w123 steering box compaitible with the innards of a w126?
I have a nice tight w123 steering box but the 300SD's is rather loose. The boxes are not the same physically but I was just curious...Thanks to anyone who may know

[WANT '71 280SEL]

bodyart, how did you get the couplng on the exact teeth so the wheel wouldn't be cocked? Did you just move the steering wheel in some teeth or did you find out how to "center" the box? Even after the box is centered, how do you get the wheel centered so everything is back to normal?

Thanks
David

[bodyart27]

I did take it to I think NTB and had it aligned on a rack afterwards...