617 Turbo oil return line. Replacing seals

[dmorrison]

Want to post this job that I just did so anyone doing it can know how much of a PITA it is. But I have done it twice now and have learned a few tricks.

Parts needed. 2 orings, 1 gasket, 1 upper oil pan grommet.

Tools needed
Ratchet with a 18 inch extension and a spring style universal.
10MM socket, 17MM socket, 10MM closed end wrench, 5MM allen socket, screwdriver, permatex high tack.

Removing the tube assembly. From below I removed the 2 mounting bolts for the upper tube. I removed the outer bolt from the front. Between the alternator and the engine mount. Use the ratchet, the 18 inch extension, the spring universal and the 10MM socket. I removed the rear bolt from the rear of the engine. Go between the drag link and the steering shock. Again the 18 inch extension spring universal and the 10MM socket.

Now unbolt the AC high pressure line that goes under the radiator and is bolted to the passenger side of the engine. You use the socket, 18 inch extension, spring universal and the 17MM socket. Also unbolt the bracket that is bolted just above the oil pan flange. Use the 10MM socket and the 5MM allen socket. Unbolt the 2 nuts on the top and then unbolt the 2 screw holding the oil pan. You need get the AC line out of the way so the tubes can move forward.

Using the screwdriver pry the large upper oil pan seal upward. Now push the joint towards the front of the car and seperate the 2 tubes. The reason you unbolted the AC line is because the oil tubes have to move forward enough to allow then to seperate they have to move to where the Ac line is located.

Clean the parts and remove the Orings, oil pan grommet and the turbo gasket. Install the Orings and new oil pan grommet. I used the High tack to apply the turbo gasket to the top tube. Clean the uper oil pan openning. Lube the o rings and oil pan seal with oil. Slide the lower tube into the upper oil pan. Position the upper tube next to the turbo and mate the 2 tubes. This may require swearing or a helper. Not much room for the tube and your hands. I had my son hold the upper tube against the turbo from above. this allowed me to manipulate it without it falling. Having the high tack hold the gasket in place is a godsend. Otherwise Lots of frustration.
Position the upper tube over the turbo opening and have I had my son hold it in position from above. Feed the bolts into the uppertube/turbo flange and hand tighten them. This does require some positioning of the hand/arm/car.
Use the ratchet, 18 inch extension, spring universal and 10mm socket to tighten both bolts. press the upper oil pan seal into position on the lower tube.

Bolt the AC line back on the engine block and oil pan

This job is a PITA. but is doable. It does require some contortionist arm postitioning. Each person will have to figuer there own abilities. IE size of arms and hands.

Dave

[babyjames]

My TD is leaking a little oil where the return pipe enters the pan. Nice to know I won't have to remove the manifold/turbo to fix it. Thanks for the info, Dave!

Jay.

P.S. Did you remove the alternator?

[stayalert]

Are you sure it s the Upper oil pan seal needed? I'm not being obnoxious, its just that I thought the lower oil pan was the one of interest regarding this work...Rob M

or are you talking about a gromment type of seal into the upper oil pan....Sorry I'n preparing to do this work on my car and am somewhat to the left on the learning curve....regards! Rob M

[dmorrison]

The grommet type seal the surrounds the drain tube as it goes into the upper oil pan.

Dave

[Eric Eliel]

Dave,

Why did you need to remove the oil pan? That is the major PIA part of this project. I replaced mine without removing the oil pan. The trick is the Rube Goldberg way you have to twist, rotate and remove the upper drain pipe. Its tricky BUT it can be done. I've done it.

Secret: Let's call the combination of the upper pipe, lower pipe and the O-ring the "assembly". After the assembly is loosened (unbolted, bottom gasket seal removed) push the center of the assembly towards the right front corner of the car. NOT directly towards the front, not towards the side, TOWARDS the corner. It will slip apart and you'll be able to remove it. Installation is the reverse.

This is on a 123 chassis. 126 Should be the same.

The other PIA part is getting the metal seat part of the turbo cleaned properly. You can only see it with a mirror.

[Hit Man X]

Hrm, very interesting as my 617 has a nice leak from here also. Bigger here than the lower oil cooler line.

What's the estimated time frame to do this 2-3 hours? Sounds like it's best done around an oil change interval also correct?

[Eric Eliel]

I think I could do another one in the garage while keeping one eye on a CSI show in about 2 hours. I don't work that fast.

[stayalert]

Apologies. I think I introduced confusion into an otherwise staightforward and helpful post.

[dmorrison]

OK OK OK
I re-wrote the post to make sure that the correct "part terms" were used.
I DID NOT remove the lower or upper oil pan. There is a grommet that the lower tube slides into and then in to the upper oil pan.

THE ONLY TIME YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE LOWER OIL PAN IS IF LOWER TUBE GROMMET PIECES DROP INTO THE OIL PAN. THEN IS IS JUST WISE TO REMOVE THEM. AND THAT REQUIRES REMOVING THE LOWER OIL PAN.

Hope this clears everything up.

Dave

PS yes about a 1.5-2 hour job. and this was my second time.

[JimmyL]

DAve,
You need to let your metroplex buddies know when you're doing something like that so we can crow-neck over your shoulder...

By the way, if you see smoke in your fair burb my wagon has been over at Don's for 3 weeks now.

[VA300SD]

Last June, on a 500 mile round trip, the slowly leaking turbo oil return tube assembly got a lot worse during the sustained interstate speed.
Oil pressure was dropping and discovered the rear bumper coated with oil at the end of the first leg of the trip.
I could see the oil seeping out at the bottom of the return tube where it mates to the sump housing, if that's the correct description.
The 2-gallon capacity of the 617 engine probably saved the day and as I limped to the nearest Wal-Mart for six 1-gallon jugs of Delvac.
The first refill was about 1.5 gallons and the return trip, with frequent stops, consumed another 1.5 gallons before I could make it to the mechanic's.
He made sure to mention to me how much of a pain in the donkey it was to replace the seals, etc. and luckliy the engine didn't sustain any serious damage.

[dannym]

Hey,
Here's another tutorial from the archives:
Click Here

Danny