Pull head on inline six? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

todds · #1 06-28-2010, 04:03 PM

Does anyone have a good writeup on how to pull the head on an SOHC inline six? Something akin to the m180 family?

I imagine I'll have to crack the timing chain?

ctaylor738 · #2 06-29-2010, 08:58 AM

It depends on the how the chain runs through the head, and where the slide rails are. Generally, though, you can leave the chain intact.

todds · #3 06-29-2010, 09:48 AM

Thanks Chuck,

I have glenn's manual, but it doesn't mention the chain and the engine coverage is kinda spotty in places. My engine was making a singular loud tap in addition to the typical noise and running hot. I had already adjusted the valves to spec a couple times. I also lifted the rockers to check the ball pivots and they seem fine. I found a LOT of white deposits in the radiator and near the water pump and I'd like to pull the head in order to have it redone and also to clear out the water passages. I've never done this before however and was looking for some good tips to avoid pitfalls and perhaps a source for better instructions than the glenn manual.

bwostosh · #4 06-29-2010, 10:09 AM

Remove the thermostat housing,
the cam chain tensioner,
then the bolt on the front of the cam and
tap the gear forward to release the chain.

Head removal takes about 1 hour,
(if you've done it before in the pick-a-part yard)

Disconnect the exhaust pipes and take the manifolds with the head.
Be very careful with the water temperature sensor in the head.
Do the motor mount on the manifold side too.

todds · #5 06-29-2010, 10:53 AM

Thanks Brian,

Well now it seems easy! ;-) This head while dressed can't possibly weigh a whole lot can it? I'm estimating less than 50lbs?

Both my manifolds are off already, and the motor and subframe mounts are all set. Next question: Where do I send it where they'll do it right? I noticed my cam seems to have a little flash on the sides of the lobes although the lobes themselves don't seem too bad, is this a sign of wear or is it normal? I'll snap some photos of it.

-Todd

strelnik · #6 06-29-2010, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by todds

Does anyone have a good writeup on how to pull the head on an SOHC inline six? Something akin to the m180 family?

I imagine I'll have to crack the timing chain?

If this is for the 230S, spend 20 bucks and get the CD on service of the 180.947 engine, which is what you 230S has.

I guarantee you, it is worth 20 bucks.

todds · #7 06-30-2010, 03:58 PM

O.K. welp, I've found the reason my car was running hot in traffic! Yech, somehow a clam appears to have roosted in my cooling system

and here's the water pump side:

Yech! This should be the poster child for "why to change your coolant at least once since 1967"

SilkMoneyLove · #8 07-01-2010, 04:07 PM

Looks like you were trying to cook pasta in there. Seriously, WTF is that?

thorsen · #9 07-01-2010, 04:26 PM

That will do it.

Just curious - how heavy was the head? I thought 50 # sounded light for a straight-6.

todds · #10 07-23-2010, 03:02 PM

Okay, so I have a couple questions. The large bolt which is on the R front side of the head for the tensioner, can I just turn that? What's it's story, I can't see any threads or anything. Also, I'm just curious as to what some of the other random covers/bolts are on the block. What are those octagon shaped covers for on the R side? Also, what are those huge allen wrench set-screw looking things on the other side of the block? I'm not planning on removing 'em, just wondering what they are?

Should I remove the timing gear from the chain and then slide the chain through the engine or is there some way of removing the tensioner first? The bolt holding on the fuel line bracket around the front of the head seems to have the pivot for the tensioner behind it but I can't tell if it served any other purpose...

Do I need to remove the distributor or is it just for convenience?

cth350 · #11 07-24-2010, 11:51 AM

The tensioner is held down by two small bolts. One doubles for the exhaust manifold the other is exclusively for the tensioner. Ignore the big one in the middle.

While getting parts together for reassembly, replace the washers and the nuts from the manifolds and any wavey washer you run into (like the one under that 2nd bolt on the timing chain tensioner and the thermostat housing nuts). Also discard and replace the hollow bolts and crush seals for that little metal bypass pipe from the water pump to the head.

-CTH