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#1
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108 chassis body work question.
I am preparing to repaint my car, so I removed all the chrome trim pieces so I could repair rust at the trim mounting holes and get to my rear fender's "dog-legs." Most of the red plastic grommets that the trim pieces mounting pins go into are unusable after removal, and I was wondering if someone knew of a source for them?
Thanks! |
#2
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A dealership should be able to order them or you can go through MB Classic. Every part for every Benz is still manufactured, that's a good thing for us older car ownders.
Thanks David
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_____________________________________________ 2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles 1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles _____________________________________________ |
#3
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Well, I was kind of hoping for an aftermarket source. I was hoping to have everything finished up before I make my next trip to the dealer in Columbus.
The other thing I need to ask is if anyone here has tried PQR-15 rust treatment??? I've heard about it, and I need to know if it actually works and is worth buying. I'm working on the dreaded spare tire wells in the trunk, and I have one that needs just a little patch and some kind of a treatment to kill the rest of the rust. On the other side, I ended up cutting the whole well out so I can replace it with some new steel. So it goes. Now does PQR-15 actually work as advertised and it is worth the price? I need to coat that spare well and put some kind of coating that won't chip easily around every one of those trim mounting holes. |
#4
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POR-15
POR-15 works as advertised. I used it for some rust spots on one of my earlier cars and it protected it from further rust for years.. It is not a repair but a protector.
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#5
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Any body shop supply place or auto paint shop should have the red plastic inserts. They aren't expensive, and it appears that they are still in demand enough to get. May have to be ordered, though.
Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#6
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I have a problem with the driver's side air vent that maybe someone could help me with. I found the source of my water leak whenever I am in heavy rain. There is some kind of foam rubber that covers the intake to the vent. The foam seems to be relatively impervious to water, but passes air. The passenger side piece is in good condition, but the driver's side foam is gone. Does anyone know what this material is and what a suitable replacement might be. No, I am not referring the the air filter, this is clear under the cowling.
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#7
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Just a thought here... and maybe even a stupid one. But I have been thinking about coating my spare wells with something like Rhino or Line-X bedliner protectant. Again, just a thought at this point, but the stuff holds up well, and may be worth it. Anyone ever done anything like that?
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http://www.carsponsors.com/images/av...o_mercedes.jpg 1967 Mercedes 250S w/ 350 Chevy V8, stock transmission and rear end. 1968 Mercedes 250S w/ 229 Chevy V6, 350 Turbo Transmission with shift kit, and 1981 Corvette rear end. |
#8
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Trunk coating
With my recent paint job I had an slight surface rust removed, treated and then coated the entire trunk compartment with a Rhino lining similar product. I think it turned out great. A word of caution is that if you do the back of the rear fender area, future damage repair may be difficult/costly, as the lining material becomes very hard and will cause a body man to use profanity.
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#9
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So it wasn't such as stupid idea after all!
![]() One big question.... your liner looks VERY shiny, and I LIKE that! All the truck bed liners I have seen have been very dull looking. Was there anything special you had to do to make it shiny? I apologize if that is a stupid question... lol. But I have never seen Rhino type liner be shiny like that. That is how I would like mine to look. Would appreciate some info on it man! Thanks!!!!!
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http://www.carsponsors.com/images/av...o_mercedes.jpg 1967 Mercedes 250S w/ 350 Chevy V8, stock transmission and rear end. 1968 Mercedes 250S w/ 229 Chevy V6, 350 Turbo Transmission with shift kit, and 1981 Corvette rear end. |
#10
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Another good thing about the bedliner is that it doubles as a sound deadener.
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#11
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M_anker.... I live about 2 miles from "Ed Potter's"... which changed its name recently to Germain. If you would like me to pick up and send you the parts, I would be willing to help. However, I will only be able to do so untill the end of August as I will not be back in Ohio 'till next summer.
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#12
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Gregg
Did you use a standard battery relocation kit or something special for Mercedes?
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1967 Mercedes 200 Diesel Heckflosse |
#13
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Battery relocation
In response to the battery relocation question: I just used the extra spare tire wheel well space, bolted in a battery holder and then ran heavy gage wire from a Hotronics "Qwik Flip Master Battery Disconnect" (see www.HotronicsProducts.com) that I installed on the left side of the engine compartment, in close proximity to original battery position. I installed a length of PVC pipe under the car and parrallel to the fuel line and then ran the now protected cable to the rear. Another advantage to relocating the battery is that it opens up the left side of the engine compartment for easier maintenance access. Refer to the attachment and note the exposed area on the engine side of the windshield washer container.
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#14
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I have been pleased with POR15 so far. It seems to be resistant to battery acid and brake fluid as well.
The concept is that paint allows moisture through. POR does not. The coating is very tough. I also bought a chrome polish from them. It has been the only thing that worked.
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63 220S W111 76 300D W115 2013 VW JSW TDI M6 previously- 73 280 SEL 4.5 86 300E 5 speed 2010 VW Jetta TDI M6 |
#15
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hey that pcv pipe is a good idea!
mike |
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