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#1
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How to clean master cylinder and get it ready for new kit?
thanks DAN
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
#2
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Carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner and a lint-free rag of some sort. Don't use any abrasives at all, if you take any substantial material off the bore, the piston seal cups won't seal, and you will have weak brakes.
If it is pitted, scored, or otherwise damaged, replace it. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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Throw it in the sink when it is all apart, and clean it with dish soap and hot water!
Re-assemble with brake fluid.
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Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#4
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Ditto to Peter's remark about replacing it if it has any pitting at all! Your life as well as others are dependent upon your car to stop. On a master cylinder I would suggest a new one be bought instead of a kit. Cheap insurance as well as peace of mind.
Last edited by Gympie; 01-14-2003 at 12:31 PM. |
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