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#1
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small tear in soft top window
i've always dreaded the day when the plastic windows would either change color, crack or tear. i usually drive the '00 SL500 with the top down and only put it back up when i'm parking somewhere for any length of time. then, i look for covered parking to try and keep the soft top safe from the sun and from other elements bent on destroying it. (i haven't put the hard top on the car for over a year and the car is always garaged at home and at work).
i've had the sl now for 6 years and i can see slight tears starting from the edges of all 3 plastic windows. aside from the tears (all along the fold line/crease), the windows are in great condition. there are no discolorations and they don't look weathered at all. i think my undoing may have been my over use of the top up/down button in trying to protect the soft top. the longest tear is probably 1/2 inch right now, but to me, they look like they're getting slightly longer every time i put the top down/up. my question is this...are there any products out there that i can use to weld/glue/keep-the-tear(s)-from-growing? or do i just have to grin and bear it and set aside some money for a future replacement of the plastic windows. btw, how much would that cost? the canvas part of the soft top is in excellent condition so i hope i don't have to replace the entire top to fix the problem with the plastic windows. thanks in advance for your suggestions! (sorry if this is a double post - it didn't seem to work the first time i clicked on 'submit') |
#2
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Hi
I couldn't believe your post as this has just happened to my top too! Yesterday I inspected the plastic windows and found EXACTLY as you have but my cracks are only around 5mm long. One suggestion made to me was that the only way to stop any further cracking (without using patches) is to drill a tiny hole at the crack end. But of course this is a little scary! The roof is split into two canvas segments, front and rear - dealer cost front 800GBP, rear 700GBP approx (as of yesterday when I spoke to my dealer). There are plenty of threads here discussing alternatives so I'm of to search those first. But essentially my plan is to locate the manufacturer of the plastic windows and probably attempt to buy these and get them fitted by a hood repair specialist - as my canvas is of reasonable condition too. Lea
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'93 R129 500SL-32 '89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002 http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg |
#3
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Rear section replacement is about the only real cure. My rear window actually split in half one day while lowering the top. I used clear packing tape to keep the halves together until I could get it repaired (by MB I might add, since it happened 6 months after used purchase...and Starmark wouldn't cover it!).
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#4
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Trouble is we'll need to replace both rear and front to obtain the colour match required!
I've searched through quite a few posts here and can't find the OEM of the plastic windows or material - anyone know who they are? Windows have PolyGlas stamped all over but I can't find any reference to the canvas. This UK site (rather handy) http://www.prestigeautotrim.com/uk/hoods/mercedes_hoods.htm says they supply OE hoods - they are particularly inexpensive too compared with dealer prices... Although the 14 hour labour time surely can't be correct?! 14 hours!!! That's horrendous!!! Lea
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'93 R129 500SL-32 '89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002 http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg |
#5
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Thanks for the replies. I just checked and replacing that rear section of the convertible top will cost US$1,600.00 (labor not included). So I think I'm going to just keep an eye on it and try the drilling method if it gets close to an inch in length. Then, I'm going to use some Crazy Glue to reduce the tear length. If all this fails, I've got clear shipping tape at work. I'll keep the top down while driving as usual, but when I park, it'll look ghetto with all that tape. Oh well...time to start thinking about trading it in for a newer model with a retractable hard top.
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#6
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I too have considered the R229 but unfortunately I'm saving for a DB9 - guess I'm gonna have to wait for another 15 Years though!
I have contacted Prestige Auto Trim and they have confirmed the 14 hours labour is correct. Total cost 1200UKP, front and rear sections 550GBP, labour 650GBP. Two days required for fitment. They wouldn't tell me the OEM of the glass or material (slightly disappointed but not surprised) but are happy to send a sample of the canvas for my review - nice touch. I'll let you know how it compares. A dealer supplied hood costs around 1500GBP so now add 14 hours labour at 85GBP/hour and we have 1500+1200 = 2700UKP I've also been recommended, from people in the trade, an alternative hood specialist http://www.hoodsgaloreuk.co.uk/welcome.htm so I'm going to ask these to quote too... Lea
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'93 R129 500SL-32 '89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002 http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg |
#7
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Received the hood and flexglass material sample in the week and the canvas appears identical - flexglass looks good too.
Only downside is that Prestige don't stitch the glas, but heat press it. This means there's no stitching in the hood anywhere and so to me, just doesn't look quite right as the original look is gone. Lea
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'93 R129 500SL-32 '89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002 http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg |
#8
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My wife reckons there is some kind of "iron on" temporary plastic patch for the rear window; she claims that she used such a solution on her MX5 many years ago (before I had the pleasure of her acquaintence--and the car is long gone) with great success.
My car has the splitting problem, compounded now on the passenger side where the split has folded in to create a small hole. I will be investigating this plastic patch option as soon as I can find out anything about it. Has anybody heard about this? Must be better than a $$$ new hood.
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JJ Rodger 2013 G350 Bluetec 1999 SL 500 1993 E300 diesel T 1990 190 |
#9
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Splitting problems at '99 - ooooh! I thought mine was simply starting to show her age but I'm quite surprised at yours JJ.
Next weekend I hope to visit my local hood specialist - I'll let you know the outcome if you're interested. Lea
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'93 R129 500SL-32 '89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002 http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg |
#10
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I've tried to limit the up/down use of the soft top to curtail the spreading of the tear and it seems to be working. But, I'd still like to "fix" the problem w/o spending hundreds/thousands to do so. JJ, did you find out anything about the "patch"? Lea, did the hood specialist recommend anything? I've gotta wash my car this weekend, I hope the tear doesn't get any bigger while I'm washing...
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#11
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One trick I heard was to take a rolled up towel in the window crease as the soft top is put down. Basically keeps it from folding, and makes it curve more.
As with all auto stuff, strictly US made all cotton Bath towel !!
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KLK, MCSE 1990 500SL I was always taught to respect my elders. I don't have to respect too many people anymore. |
#12
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That's an interesting idea, but I don't think my arms are long enough for me to do it by myself. I think once a tear begins to form, you're pretty much S.O.L.
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#13
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JJ Rodger 2013 G350 Bluetec 1999 SL 500 1993 E300 diesel T 1990 190 |
#14
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Quote:
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'93 R129 500SL-32 '89 190E 2.6 - sold in 2002 http://antron.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/i...nature/Sig.jpg |
#15
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I happened to stumble across a section in my CD for the 107 that showed how to replace the clear plastic window sections. Based on the fact that they have a documented proceedure I assumed that MB must have sold replacement pannels at least for the 107's in the past. The proccedure required a heavey duty sewing machine.
John Roncallo |
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