Torsion Bar Bushing Replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mbboy · #1 09-30-2011, 05:44 PM

Does anyone happen to know if the torsion bar bushings on a 107 can be replaced simply by removing the brackets and replacing the bushings one at a time while the car is up on ramps?

Seems to me that the bar isn't under stress when the wheels are parallel, and that one bracket and both connecting links should be enough to keep the bar in place when the other bracket is off?

OTOH, I suppose that I could put a jack or jack stand under each bracket before I remove it to support the bar until I change the bushing and replace the bracket.

Your usual, good advice would be greatly appreciated before I get myself in more hot water than I'm already in.

Strife · #2 09-30-2011, 07:59 PM

I don't recall that these were difficult to replace, the worst part was dealing with frozen screws /bolts. Maybe I had to jack the car up a bit.

abiby · #3 10-01-2011, 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strife

I don't recall that these were difficult to replace, the worst part was dealing with frozen screws /bolts. Maybe I had to jack the car up a bit.

Likewise... Nothing special that I recall.

mbboy · #4 10-01-2011, 06:54 AM

Thanks for the info, guys.

Next question: when I try to close the Meyle bushings I have around the sway bar, there's app. a 1/4" gap between the bushing's top and bottom lip. I noticed, however, that the manual specifies that the diameter of the opening in the bushing is smaller than the diameter of the sway bar. So it seems that when the bushing is installed, there should be a small space between its upper and lower lip.

So I'm now wondering whether putting the bushing in the bracket and tightening the screws will cause the bushing to close around the sway bar more than it will when I just wrap it around the bar?

BrooklynMatt · #5 10-01-2011, 08:03 AM

The gap will close. I did the front stabilizer bar bushings a few weeks ago on my car and had the same situation.

I just recalled that I needed to cut the bolts from the LCA because the sleeve that goes over the bolt at the stabilizer end was completely frozen to the bolt. Cutting the bolt head after removing the nut made the job so much easier.

Matt.

mbboy · #6 10-01-2011, 10:45 AM

Thanks a lot, Matt. Now that I know that, I'm ready to go ahead, and replace my sway bar bushings for the first time.

Did you or anyone else notice much of a difference after you replaced yours?

BrooklynMatt · #7 10-02-2011, 08:49 PM

I replaced the sway bar bushings at the same time as the front subframe bushings so I can't attribute any part of the improvement to the sway bar alone. The overall improvement is night and day. Good luck.

Matt.

mbboy · #8 10-05-2011, 08:48 AM

I know what you mean, Matt. Changing the front subframe bushings alone improver the ride quite a bit, even though the old bushings didn't look too bad, and changing the front connecting link bushings improved it even more.

However, I had trouble getting all the new bushings on the connecting links, since the new bushings weren't compressed. So, I have to go back and figure out how to replace one or two more on each side. Did you have any trouble getting the new bushings to fit on the connecting bolts?

nobby · #9 10-05-2011, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbboy

However, I had trouble getting all the new bushings on the connecting links, since the new bushings weren't compressed. So, I have to go back and figure out how to replace one or two more on each side. Did you have any trouble getting the new bushings to fit on the connecting bolts?

No. that bolt shouild be plenty long for this procedure.

BrooklynMatt · #10 10-05-2011, 10:26 AM

While it is plenty long enough once torqued, prior to that it is a little tricky getting everything on the bolt and the nut started. As I remember it, I had to pry the end of the stabilizer down a little to compress some of the rubber. It was a little frustrating since the bolt kept sliding down but eventually I got it. I was only able to get half a turn of the nut on the end of the bolt but that's all you need. After that a ratcheting box-end is your friend.

As with most things, the second side is done in a quarter of the time as the first.

Matt.

daidnik · #11 10-05-2011, 10:42 PM

With the front susp off the ground (on jackstands), put all the rubber & washer components on from bttm of cntrl arm up thru eyelet on swaybar on both sides of the car, EXCEPT:

Leave top rubber off & just use the metal washer & get top nylock nuts just started so the stack stays on (both sides).

Then put floor jack under end of brake disk or edge of brake disk with block of wood. Now raise wheel up a bit. This will put pressure on swaybar as it tries to lift the wheel on the opposite side thru the torsional strain on swaybar. You should be able to get enough pressure without lifting the side off the jackstand.

This will compress the rubbers in the link stack enough to allow you to undo the top nylock & get the top rubber on with the washer & nut like it's supposed to be. Once you get that side assembled right, then repeat on the opposite side.

After both sides are assembled right, then lastly tighten the nylock nuts to get the preload on the rubber stack. Don't overcompress the rubbers, it doesn't gain you any performance, but shortens the life of the rubbers; just enough to make them tight so they don't spin, etc. Around 25% squish is reasonable.

mbboy · #12 10-14-2011, 06:25 AM

I ended up doing it the following way:

1. Drove car up on ramps.

2. Removed nut and bolt holding rubber buffers on one side.

3. Placed jack under lifting rail at mid-point of chassis on the same side.

4. Raised jack enough to raise torsion bar, which allowed me to remove the buffers, washers and sleeve sandwiched between torsion bar and lower control arm.

5. Slid new washer and rubber buffer onto bolt head and inserted it into hole in control harm.

6. Slid new rubber buffers, washers and sleeve onto bolt between torsion bar and lower control arm.

7. Slid washer onto bolt just above torsion bar, and screwed nut loosely on to bolt to hold it in place.

8. Lowered jack.

9. Moved jack to opposite side, and raised it enough to compress the new buffers on the other side.

10. Removed nut and washer on top of torsion bar while holding bolt head, to prevent it from dropping.

11. Slid the topmost buffer, washer and nut on to bolt, and tightened nut with no problem.

12. Repeated procedure for other side.

All in all, I'd say it took me an hour, and the cornering and ride improvement was well worth the cost and effort.