Tie rods and ball joints(upper - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 07-26-2004, 10:57 PM

I have a 1984 300sd turbo diesel(207,000miles)that im restoring. I took it to car x for the shimmy prob and they said I need a upper rt ball joint ,both tie rods,rotate & balance plus shocks.It starts to shimmy at 60mph on up.Are the upper ball joints need special tools to change as well as the tie rods?Ive got a Chiltons and it shows the shocks are easy to change but what about the rest? Im low on funds so all the work I can do myself will help greatly?Thanks.

wbain5280 · #2 07-27-2004, 12:40 AM

The upper ball joint comes complete with the upper arm.

You will need a two jaw puller to separate the ball joint from the spindle. You will need to remove the bolt holding the arm to the chassis. The passenger side is failry easy in that you must remove the bettery. The drivers side is a PITA becasue the master cylinder and various pipes are in the way and the bolt must be removed from the rear. When I replaced that side, I put the bolt in from the front. I used some long jawed needle mosed type pliars with rounded ends to grab the bolt.

Be aware, you may find the lower ball joints are also bad and the chassis mounted brake rod ball joint is bad as well. Examine the boots for cracks or holes.

The lower ball joints require a special tool. Take the spindle to a MB shop. I did.

W126 Front End Work

waybomb · #3 07-29-2004, 06:11 PM

I am just doing the same job on my 82 SD. I bought a Klann spring compressor from a lister here to make the job easy. I've used spring compressors before and was somewhat concerned with doing this job.

Using this Klann tool is simply a joy, if working on suspensions can be a joy. This tool is a fnatastic piece.

I am replacing the strut rod kits at the lower arm, the strut rod bushings and bracket bushings on both sides, the upper control arm and its bushings, steering linkage, shocks, brake pads, and steering shock. Everything else is in great shape.

That driver's side bolt is now sitting at the bottom of the cavity where the master cylinder is. I planned on doing what wbain did when I saw what was involved. Tonight I'll fish it out so i can put this puppy back together.

If you need any guidance, I'd be glad to let you know what I've learned.

After I'm done with the SD, I'm doing the SEL. It really is a simple job. Surprisinglky simple.

stevebfl · #4 07-29-2004, 08:41 PM

While we have the Klann (actually MB as it was purcxhased from MB) spring compressor, we probably never use it on a 126 front end. Anything loose in the front end needs replacing but the standard part that causes shimmy at 50-60 is the caster joint. The only reason to remove the spring is the forward bushings of the caster strut rod located under the lower spring pearch.

Larry Delor · #5 07-29-2004, 09:19 PM

Somewhere on this board, I have described how I did not need a spring compressor to change the upper ball joint/ control arm combo. You do, however, need two hydraulic jacks, and possibly a big brass hammer.

-Larry

(that was on both the 123 & the 126)

stevebfl · #6 07-29-2004, 09:22 PM

The shock supports the spring when the upper control arm is replaced. Most simple of jobs.

waybomb · #7 07-30-2004, 08:30 AM

That's why I bought the Klann. I had to get that spring perch off to change the caster rod bushings. In the process, I found my upper ball joints to be shot.
Will do my SEL next and then sell the Klann, bercause I won';t need it, hopefully, for another 150,000 miles on either car.
Thanks.