The 86 190d that I bought about a month ago didn't come with plates and know that I have the plates I don't know what size screws/bolts will work.
Right know the plates in the back window, and doesn't look good.

Small problem, I know but if someone could help me out as to the size of the bolts/screws I'd apprieciate it.

Thanks,
BioBubbs

Don't know the exact size, but have seen them sold in packages in auto stores, WalMart etc, and they fit. They come in different material, from plastic to stainless steel.

Call a MB dealer Parts Department. They should know the correct size.

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Fred Hoelzle

I would make sure you get the size recommended by the dealer, rather than buying them off the shelf at an auto parts place. The MB license plate screws are metric where most of the generic ones are not.

They should give you a size like "M5x10mm". You can go to Home Depot and buy screws there in the proper metric size. I don't recall the exact size I bought, but do remember they were readily available at HD.

Neal

__________________
'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD
'87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD
'86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD
'92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD
'90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD
'01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD
'03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD
'07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD
'07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi)
'13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi)
'14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi)

Similar problem with my 260E. The MB parts guy was no help, I had to listen to his bs excuses for too long. Basically, the front screws go into a rubber insert in the bumper cover. They're self tapping screws that look like the cheapos that come with knock-down furniture. They're 2 mm dia by 1.5 mm pitch (very coarse) and (guess) 15 mm long. Not at all critical as they go into those rubber inserts.

He had no clue about the rears screws that go into the plate holder. I wound up taking the plate holder off, drilling out the holes and tapping for 1/4" x 28 x 1/2" long. I used stainless capscrews (bolts) and plactic washers over & under the plate. Be sure to not use too long a screw as it will hit the painted trunk surface.

The way he handed me the obvoiusly cheap screws with the offhand comment, "Here, take these." I thought he was giving me some junk screws (freebie). Then he called me back & handed me a bill for $5 for four junk screws that probably cost a penny total. Whatta guy.

BTW, I looked in the typical car parts stores, the license plate screws they have don't fit. If you have to use the right screws, remove the plate bracket (4 phillips screws) and take it into the store & try a few sizes. Get washers to cover the holes in the plate & not so long that they touch the painted surface under the bracket.

Enjoy,

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Norm in NJ
Next oil change at 230,000miles

Tonight I pulled the screws from my car (bought at dealer and they installed the plates). I found that the screws are different front vs rear. Front ones have a pointed tip, and the threads are spaced further apart. Rear ones have a flat tip, and the threads are spaced much closer.

Yes it would make a lot more sense to buy the right screws from the dealer. Thanks for pointing that out.

Have a 2000 MB E320. Tried to change license plate on rear but screws seem frozen or stuck and will not turn. Just got car. The round receptical that the screws turn into rotates when I try to remove screw. Any Idea on how I can get screws out to put on license plate. Appreciate any help here. Thanks

Spray some WD40 beneath the screw head and let it soak in for 10 minutes or so. Try using a cordless drill with a Philips head bit to remove the screws. Some vibration/tapping on the screw heads may help also.

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Fred Hoelzle

I would pull the liner of the trunk and grab the ends with a pair of pliers after soaking the screw. These things are like pop rivets installed and drawn epanded up by installing the screw.

I had the same problems freeing the rear license plate screws despite ample WD-40. I removed the trunk liner, and secured the rear of the screw mounts with a 7mm wrench. Then used vice-grips on the screws, and was able to free them. Trying to unscrew them with a cordless drill only stripped the philips slots.

just read your thread, and i had to laugh, i just went through this with my 560SL, I had to go back to the store like 3 times to finally get the right screws! LOL

next time ill just go to the dealer for a dumb little thing like that.

good luck..