This has slowly gotten worse over the past year that we've owned the car. It is visible when looking at the car from the rear. It is so bad that the tires are showing the metal cords on the inside of the tire. When looking at the car from the back, the wheels tilt in at the top. / \ like that but not as drastic of course. The left is worse and I replaced all control links except for the sway bar link. All the links I replaced needed replacement. The only one I didn't replace is the one that has a ball joint on one end. That piece has no play in it and I don't see how it could effect the camber. If it were bad, it would affect the castor. Please let me know what you guys think.
It's gotten to the point that when braking the car feels "squirlley"? That's the word my dad used to describe it. Would the shocks maybe make it feel unstable when braking? The pads and rotors have less than 5,000 miles on them. It doesn't really pull to one side or another, but it feels like it wants to? Basically, after initially pushing the pedal the car might slightly go to one side then to the other than straighten out all on it's own. It aslo dives more considerably. The front wheels don't have any side-side play, but I think the RF b/joint is a little worn.
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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To The Top. Any help greatly appreciated of course.
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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check the struts on the rear whell assembly (rubber bushings may be worn if your car has them)

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Keep us posted especially if your problem is solved
Present cars:
My car: E-class 420CDI, 2008, W211, V8, 180 000km

Wife's one: C-class 220CDI Sport Coupé, Euro, 2002, W203. 345 000km

Son's one: GLK class, 220CDI, 2009, W204

Sold: E-class 260E, 1988, W124, Wonderfull car sold after 489 000 kilometres of reliable services (engine M103, clutch, brake system and 5 speed manual gear box all original).

Sold: E-class, 320CDI, W210, 2000, 225 000km

struts wouldn't affect that would they? They just dampen. The springs would supplly the height I would think. But I will look at the rubber on the struts. I did a search, but people only have rear camber problems when they have the H&R lowering springs.
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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You are only part way there -- if you have replaced the camber, thrust, and torque links and still have droop, either the springs are going or the bushings on the spring link (and spring buffers) are dead.

Usually the torque steer is bad torque links (the diagonal ones that are such a pain to get out), but if the rear subframe mounts are bad, you will still get the whole subframe twisting off center under torque. Won't make the wheel camber in, though.

Also, was the suspension level when you tightened the link bolts? The sleeve stays put, the rubber flexes, so if the suspension wasn't in "level" position, the wheel will be off.

I don't remember if the camber link is adjustable, if so, it's time for a rear alignment (I'd do a four wheel alignment at a good shop before getting too excited).

Bushings aren't hard, does require removing spring, though.

I'd also take a look at the dif mounts, probably gone too.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

The 124 doesn't have a camber adjustment. Could the springs be that worn? It is visible when looking at the far that the camber is way off. What are the spring buffers your speaking of? The spring was seated correctly. When I did the rear links I put a cork-screw type jack under the wheel carrier to simulate it being on the ground. I did this job on a lift at work. To get the torque strut out (the hard looking one) I just bent out the dust shield with a large pair of pliers. Of course that was after the rotor, etc. was off. That gives you more than enough room to get all the appropraite bolts out. Then, I just bent it back when I was done. However, you need to get it back all the way in or it wants to rub sometimes on the rotor. SO, I used a chisel and a hammer to get everything back to where it was. The LS took me no more than 1 1/2 hours. That includes everything, but the lift made it that much easier. I also sprayed the bolts with PBR twice during the week before the job which helped greatly I think. I also used an impact which is a big time-saver.
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Weak springs are suspect, but often neg camber with squirrly feel [ most noticeable in seat and as you straighten out from going around slow corners] can be:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=mercedesshop&cookieid=1A70KFNW8&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1990&product=L2030-40235&application=000331025

Excess camber and cause inner tire wear, but so can excess toe-out!

First, how tight did you get those bolts? They must be tight enough to hold against the twisting of the bushings since the rubber is part of the spring -- if the steel insert slips, you loose some "spring".

Second, it's normal for them to look like they have way to much camber, it's got some, and the body flares there, makes them look way off. Only way to tell is with a good four wheel alignment, where they can measure the camber, caster, and toe.

Third, if the bushings on the spring arm are bad, you will have both too much camber and too much toe-out since the wheel carrier won't be in the right place relative to the spring arm.

Fourth, if the spring seats are squashing down, as they do with age, you get more camber since it sits lower.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I think we're going to take it to a mechanic later this week. It's dangerous driving it when it's wet. Even when it's dry on the road, if the car is floored it chirps tires pretty badly when shifting and always wants to spin around even slight curves. I tried moving the wheel around with a large lever with a jack under the wheel carrier and the wheel wouldn't budge any which way. I may need to jack it by the body to check for control arm play?
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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I check all links with the suspension unloaded [ lift] and the aid of a long pry bar ...Prying every which way while watching each joint ...