After replacing one of the coil's as you suggested on the 1993 300E 3.2, The car is running good, the check engine light is staying lit. I cleared all codes by disconnecting the battery while installing the new coil, the codes I get now are:

test button = 2,7

using Arthur Dalton's home built tester i get the following:
location 6= 3
location 7= 1
location 8= 9
location 10= no blips at all
location 14= 1

not sure what codes are normal on the 3.2 liter, location 8, code 9 I searched for codes and in other posts responses appear to be an ignition problem. Is it another coil acting up?

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Thanks, Juan

Juan,
The code 7 still indicates ignition failure fault.
I did not want to repeat the post again, as I previously answered that whenever a HFM-SFI 104 eng system throws an ignition code , experience with these has resulted in the TECH changing the 3 connector/resistors under each coil and putting in Bosch F8DC4 plugs..
This has , in 99% of the cases , resolved the problem.
The connectors are not just a simple connection bridging the coil to the the plug, but rather ,they contain the Resistors also. [ which is why you NEVER use resistor plugs ..resistors on top of resistors will burn coils] These connectors fail rate is high and they are the weak link to all 104 distributorless ignitions .
So... before condemning ECUs. coils, mafs , etc., the first thing we do is change this inexpensive , common fail combo. [F8DC4 and the 3 connectors]This gets you where you are supposed to be at the cylinder . Both wrong plugs and/or bad connectors
will pop all sorts of fuel/ignition codes and without extensive scoping ,are hard to pin-point. So starting here anew saves a lot of misdiagnosis.
As you noted in one of my post, to make sure , when moving the suspect coil to another location, to be sure to NOT transfer the same boot in the proccess. Reasoning here, of course, is that by not paying attention to this point, you can assume that you had a bad coil, when, in fact , it could be the more likely connector. [Not saying that is in your case ,but as you did replace both the coil and connector, one really does not know for sure which one was the actual remedy]
The point being , new connectors and proper plugs are the way I and many Techs I know automatically address 104 ignition faults. Once I do that, I clear codes and give it a try. If codes come back later, we now know the problems are ABOVE the plugs/connectors.
I also would point out to you that the Bosch recommend for Plat 4s on that engine/chassis are 4301 and standard plats are 4391. You have neither.
Their recommendation on the standard is the F8DC4 Supers and that is the one most Techs have found to be the best on these Waste Spark systems [ see previous post]
You will notice that Fast Lane does not list ANY other plug for sale on 104s EXCEPT F8DC4s....

Thank you Arthur for clearing the issue even further, I will replace the boots/connectors and the plugs and go from there.

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Thanks, Juan

That will be good..
Gap of .032 is spec.
Let me know how that goes..

Arthur, Replaced sparks and connectors, The good news is that I don't have any more fault codes, car runs great. now i need to figure out how to disconnect the alarm and get the instrument panel dash lights back to work. checked fuses and they are all good, any suggestions Gracias.

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Thanks, Juan