Calling Lino:pics of strut mount area/info

[petaling]

changed struts with Comfort still mushy suspension,Tech blames it on old car and advised not to spend too much money on further investigation of problem.

noticed brackets where the nuts hold down the strut mount do NOT touch the sides (periphery ) of the rubber mounts but about 1 cm above.Is it normal?can you post some pictures of your strut tower/mounts so that I can compare? since you are very good with your DIGITAL CAMERA.
Thanks.Tech says its normal for the brackets ends not to be resting on the periphery of rubber mounts.

[lino]

Sorry for taking so long. I had just finished typing in my respose and when I clicked on Submit Reply, my internet service went down. It actually went in the whole city and I just got it back now.

Bilstein Comfort shocks are supposed to be similar to OEM in terms of ride and valving. What was the condition of your struts you removed? Did you inspect them and do a comparison? What about the strut tower mounts, what kind of condition are they in?

Here are some pics. If you need others, just let me know.

Driver's Side


Driver's Side


Passenger Side


Passenger Side

[lino]

[psfred]

The strut mounts are two pieces of steel with rubber vulcanized between. The top bolt in the center also holds down a crossbar to keep the strut from pulling through if the rubber fails completely.

If there are cracks in the rubber, likely the "mushy" ride is a result of excess mount movement. They will also knock badly if this is the case.

However, don't mistake the normal Benz smoothness for mushiness. You should NOT feel small irregularities in the road, and railroad tracks, etc should only cause a double thump without much sensation. This is the way Benz sets things up -- the "American" crash and kathump on rough spots doesn't happen as the shocks are somewhat less stiff on compression (and correspondingly stiffer on extension) than american style shocks. This allows the wheel to stay in contact with the road without transmitting shock vibration to the body.

A Benz in good shape is almost silent, all you should hear is tire noise!

Looking at your picture, you need sway bar bushings, yours are shot. This will also help with the "mushy" ride.

Peter

[lino]

Originally Posted by psfred

Looking at your picture, you need sway bar bushings, yours are shot. This will also help with the "mushy" ride.
Peter

Not my car . From which pic can you tell that the sway bar bushings are shot?

[psfred]

The one with the rotor and pretty red caliper -- if you can see space around the bushings on the sway bar, they are shot (the bar will thump around and be "late" in responding).

On the "mushy" suspension, check the condition of the rubber "bushings" in the rear links -- if there are any signs of serious cracking or there are shreds of rubber (or the bushings are "off center"), they need to be replaced. These are actually part of the spring system as the center sleeve is clamped down and the rubber flexes, so if they are torn (usually the thrust link and torque link are bad), you have a reduced rear spring rate and less damping. Makes the car handle funny, too. If you do this yourself, jack the suspension level before tightening the bolts. Otherwise it will sit high and look VERY strange, along with driving wierd.

Peter

[haasman]

Peter is right on the money here from my experience. Replace the front and rear sway bar bushings, check the rear sway bar links as well.

If the front shock mounts are even slightly cracked on the outside, they are almost always torn on the inside.

Also, you may want to check your idler arm bushing, not too expensive to replace while you are doing this work.

Some people say that ball joints hardly ever wear, but from my experience they do! Check those as well. They can contribute to an odd floating feeling.

Also check all of your tie rods and the steering dampener while you are there.

Several people have done this type of repair and have reported very satisfying results.

Haasman

[petaling]

Thanks lino for the beautiful pictures.
So the brackets are indeed above and separate from the rubber mounts.My mounts are in better conditions than yours.
Guess I will just listen to my mechanic and lives with the 12 yr old car.He checked my front ends and reported nothing needs replacing."Live with small amt of play caused by slightly worn bushings etc" too small to be fixed but I felt it's not the same as when I first bought the used car 7 yrs ago.

THANKS AGAIN FOR THE BEAUTIFUL PICTURES.I'LL CONCENTRATE GETTING EITHER A OPTIMA 34R(US PICK UP 120 us) OR AN INTERSTATE MTP-91 (85+TAX CANADIAN AT SAM'S CLUB).they want 180 Canadian + tax for the 34R special order at Sam's Club.Before winter hits us in 2 months

[psfred]

Prolly drag link, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, and sway bar bushings.

Eventually they will get bad enough you want to replace them.

Got a "floating" meandering feeling while driving? Check the rear links....

Peter

[lino]

Originally Posted by petaling

Thanks lino for the beautiful pictures.
So the brackets are indeed above and separate from the rubber mounts.My mounts are in better conditions than yours.
Guess I will just listen to my mechanic and lives with the 12 yr old car.He checked my front ends and reported nothing needs replacing."Live with small amt of play caused by slightly worn bushings etc" too small to be fixed but I felt it's not the same as when I first bought the used car 7 yrs ago.

THANKS AGAIN FOR THE BEAUTIFUL PICTURES.I'LL CONCENTRATE GETTING EITHER A OPTIMA 34R(US PICK UP 120 us) OR AN INTERSTATE MTP-91 (85+TAX CANADIAN AT SAM'S CLUB).they want 180 Canadian + tax for the 34R special order at Sam's Club.Before winter hits us in 2 months

You're welcome.

Take a look at this thread:
Optima Battery