has anyone ever adjusted a timing chain tensioner or replaced one? Is this something that is easy to do or do I need to take it to a mechanic

My understanding is that the tensioner is hydraulic, operating on oil pressure. I have had mine replaced by good mechanic. If the chain rattles when you start the car then the tensioner should be replaced. I don't believe there is any "adjustment" to be done.

srharvey
'82 380SL
'83 240D
'93 300TE 4Matic

no adjustment to the tensioner, if the chain rattles on cld start up you need to replace the timming chain ant tensioner, I would also replace the timming rails nad valve cover gaskets. Not to easy of a job,

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Note I thought I was replying to my recent post, still looking for help on getting to the tensioner thanks.

I have to believe they changed them, it is on the ticket. Nonetheless if they are an easy change I can do them again myself. I just looked at the MB shop manual. It seems simple but where are they on a 380 engine? I cant see where they are. Di I have to remove anything to get to them?

Well then by all means just replace the tensioner. It is located just above the oil filter housing, mounted into the front of the right head. Two bolts.

But, just like mercedesdoc said, your 380SL is most likely in need of new upper chain guides and possibly a new chain. I have repaired two engines that have cratered due to any of the above mentioned parts failing, not a pretty (or inexpensive) sight.

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Chas

Had a 380SL, 450SL, 380SEL, 420SEL, 500SEL

Got a Euro 500SEC right now.

The tensioner bolts onto the head on the passenger's side "right head". It is located the fender well side of the head in the front. It has a baseplate with two bolts from which protudes a small cylinder.

Watch the book for installation instructions on this item. I understand that it must be pumped up in oil before installation. I think that you must also turn the engine over a few times with the coil wire removed so that the small pump will fill with oil and take up the chain slack. Good luck.

Dan

Dan, thanks for your help on this. It's funny, the MB manual instructions mention nothing about pumping it with oil but Chilton's does. Pumping it with oil makes complete sense to me (putting the tensioner in a container of oil and depressing the tensioner) give how the hydraulic tensioner operates.

You wrote that the engine should be cranked with the coil wire removed. I just want to make sure I know what that means. Do you mean that I should remove the starter plug wire from the distributor? I guess (?) that might make the car attempt to start (thus pumping oil) but it won't actually start, thereby maybe pushing oil through there and removing slack in the chain? I'm just guessing.