Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-19-2004, 05:32 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 96
Question 380sl rear end clunk?

When I get up to speed then take my foot off the gas there is a clunk that comes from the rear end of the car. Also when I slow for a light when I take my foot off the brake pedal it will clunk then. Am I right to think this a lash problem in the rear end, or could it be a u-joint. Anybody have any thoughts?

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-19-2004, 07:57 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
No U-joint back there, there is only one in the center.

Check the flex disk on both ends of the driveshaft, chances are one is bad (a thump on downshift is a common symptom).

Do not delay, if it's bad enough to thump, it will fall apart sooner or later, and the driveshaft can do some serious damage if it comes out!

While down there, check how far you can turn the driveshaft before the wheels turn (car jacked up). If more than half a turn, with a clunk from the diff, the dif spider head is worn out and you need to replace the diff. Flex disks are more likely.

You should also inspect the differential mounts, rear subframe mounts, rear control arms, and rear control arm bushings. If the bushings are bad, you will be able to move the rear wheels back and forth with them off the ground. you will also have noticable torque steer.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-20-2004, 05:34 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: KC, MO
Posts: 140
Ditto to what psfred says; you can often repair the diff. in a smaller-engined car, however, by replacing the plastic spider idler gear concave spacer bushings with the upgraded metal concave bushings they now sell. You will probably want the spider idler gears as well, and you will also need a new spider idler gear shaft/pin. Oh, yeah, it's not really a DIY job, unless you have equipment to measure backlash and friction - you can do it w/o all the fancy equipment and get it close enough, however; just keep in mind that you may have to re-space the primary spider gears if the new idler bushings are too tight (measure your old spider shims and order the next 2 sizes down to be safe). Pay attention to how it comes apart, because it will need to go together the same way -- mess the assembly order up, and you'll destroy your ring/pinion gear assembly (meaning bye, bye differential).

You could also have an axle acting up (if the outer fastening bolt comes loose, or if the sealed ball joint is going bad); also the flywheel plate can do the same thing in case everything else checks out (has more of a high-pitched, tinny sound)

__________________
Don't ask me, I'm a shop-owner by default
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page