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#1
11-01-2004, 04:03 PM
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Drive Belt Tension Adjuster
'86 190E 2.3-16V: The swivel mounted brass retaining ring on the end of the tension adjuster screw that hooks on to the back of the idler pulley is broken. Can I install a new tension adjuster assy.through the access hole? If not, how should it be done?
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#2
11-01-2004, 08:34 PM
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You will have to pull the tensioner, the ring fits over the shaft, which is then bolted up to the block.
Release the large center bolt (19mm) while watching the pointer on the fitting. If it doesn't move, you probably need a new tensioner, the "spring" is the rubber vulcanized between the parts, and it goes bad. Might be why you broke the tensioner unless you didn't loosen the 19mm bolt before attempting to loosen the tensioner. When installing, set the pointer ring so that the pointer is at the line on the short side of the "ramp" cast in the tesioner, leave 19mm bolt loose but snug so the fitting can turn. Tighten adjuster to put the pointer near the thick end of the ramp, then tighten the 19 mm bolt to at least 40 ft/lbs. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#3
11-02-2004, 05:11 PM
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Drive Belt tension Adjuster
Peter, thanks for your response! The tension adjuster ring broke because of over torqueing while installing a new belt. The 19 mm bolt was loose at the time.
Jerry (Purdue Alumnus)
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#4
11-03-2004, 01:07 AM
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Jerry:
I mention that because the leading causes of breaking that specific part are 1) not loosening the 19 mm bolt and 2) attempting to re-tension a bad tensioner. It's also possible to put the link on bacwards, in which case it always breaks when you attempt to tighten the belt since it's working backwards. If the pointer didn't move properly and the link broke while you were trying to tension the belt, the tensioner is shot and you will break the new one the same way. Two quick checks -- the pointer must return to start position or near it when loosening, and the relative position of the actual belt pulley arm. There is a pic posted of that , I think by "engatwork" a year or so ago, and i no longer remember the correct positions, you may want to do a search at take a look at that thread. A bit pricey, but it beats a slipping belt! Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#5
11-03-2004, 05:13 PM
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Drive Belt Tension Adjuster
Peter, thanks again for your interest and help.. The adjuster was originally installed correctly and worked just fine. As previously repoted, the retaining ring on the bottom of the adjusting screw broke due to over torqueing. I have found the answer to my original question about removing the adjuster assy.....it cannot be pulled out from the entry hole. Apparently the power stearing pump has to be removed to access the housing for the idler pulley adjusting assy. Looks like a rather formidable task!
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#6
11-03-2004, 06:42 PM
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If it's similar to the M103, the adjuster has a bracket that screws to the block and the PS mount (four screws, two on each end) that have to come out before the tensioner comes off. Center bolt pulls out.
I wish MB had used the same spring type as on the OM603, it's so simple and easy! Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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