Need a good Ball joint/bushing tool

[ChinaClipper]

Anyone have a nice ball joint, control arm bushing remover/installer/driver whatchamacallit they could give me a part # for? Gotta be a Snap On or similar set to change my W201 ft control arm bushings and/or ball joints with. Any ideas? Thanks

[ChinaClipper]

And no ideas? Anyone? Anyone?

[DaveL]

BMP (performance BMW parts) has a series of very nice tools for doing bushings, ball joints, etc. They aren't cheap (up to $250 per tool), but they do work. Also, BMW has a "rental" program (which I think is based on an agreed buy back price when you are done using it...)

I haven't seen that SnapOn has a specific tool (I am sure they have ball joint tools, just not specific to MB or euro cars).

HTH

-David

[samiam4]

Clipper,


I'll 1/2 way answer you question for this posting and the other-all together. Check on the pic of my W124 bushing replacment.

What to know- The ball joint removers generally are sized too loose for the metric MB joint. So the "collar" will fall off the flange and the tool will cock. You can buy a MB specific one from samtagsales.com.

Looking at the situation on my W124- I had a machine shop make me a collar where 1 end fit the MB joint closely (?? 2.038"(ID)), and the other fit the free Autozone rental tool (2.25 ID)!! The small ID only needs to be 0.2-0.3" long. Mine was the same length as the tool's collars and made of normalized 4130 steel. I also got a 1/2 thick washer made with a 1/2 hole, and the OD was shy of the A-arm bushing ID.

I used the 2 effectively to remove the Bushing and R&R the ball joint.

Bushing questions: Well, I went with factory parts by vin. For my W124, they moved away from the metal-sleeved rubber bushing in the aft end because of noise. If you are looking at the nubs- then you can easily see them before removing the A-arms. The 2-bushing design is a cake walk to R&R, while that steel bushing requires pressing of some kind. That's where I used my Balljoing collar and the 1/2 thick washer with the autozone ball joint press. Only problem was that thing has a flange on one side. I didn't have or want to spring for a 2.5" countersinking bit, so I carefully ground the lip thin and beat it towards the center. I was careful and had only one small nick.

2- piece bushings with the sleeve can be pressed in with simply a long bolt and washer- 1 at a time just like the manual. I used a 1 lb ball peen hammer to seat them. The center sleeve, I made a few tapered pieces from scrape, then used them in conjunction with a c-clamp. It was easy and I cleaned it up with the small peening end of a small hammer.


There are pics of this on the list!! I posted them.

PS: The ball joints are really inexpensive from the dealership ($18 for a W124). You'll need a MB specific spring compressor to do the R&R work. If the car is old, I'd replace the spring seat(rubber spacer ) at the same time. The fronts come in 4 thickness, and are ordered by the number of nubs.

After doing it, even with the steel sleeve bushings, I think it's a cost savings. And, next time ball joints are really easy with the sleeve.

Michael

[samiam4]

Here's the link:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/105529-help-w124-control-arm-bushings.html#post725594

[tvpierce]

I went through this job a couple of years ago with my 201. You need a press to remove/install the bushings and ball joints. I planned on having a shop do the press work, but when I priced it all out, it was cheaper to buy new control arms (with bushings and ball joints already installed).

Check out FastLane at the top of this page. Complete control arms are under $200 per side. I think you'll find that is the way to go.

Jeff Pierce

[samiam4]

No special press needed..

Just make the sleeve and borrow the autozone tool. Question might start as does he have a spring compressor?????


Michael