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  #1  
Old 11-14-2004, 10:24 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flyover State
Posts: 1,364
Tips for removing P/S pump from W115

Hello,

The little SOB is not playing nice! I've got hoses, belt and bolts removed from the pump, it is free but will not come out the top or the bottom. Removed vac line and oil cooler hose without success. Began removing the bolts for the pump bracket, got 3 of them then ran into difficulty accessing the ones on the front of the crankcase. It is looking like I will have to remove the fan and shroud to get at those bolts. Will removing fan and shroud followed by crankcase bolts of P/S pump bracket lead to victory?


Thanks!

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6
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  #2  
Old 11-14-2004, 10:35 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
Seems like we dropped the stabilzer bar (four 8mm bolts) to gain more access on that chassis. Been a long time.
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #3  
Old 11-14-2004, 11:30 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flyover State
Posts: 1,364
Thanks for the reply Steve.

I didn't mention that I'm in the midst of a total front end rebuild with the control arms and sway bar already out of the way. I guess I'll take the fan and shroud out tomorrow and go from there.

This is what is going on in the garage at this time:
New rubber front end (subframe, LCA bushings, sway bar + links, spring pads, idler arm, )
New lower ball joints, brand new Upper C arms!
Rebuild Calipers
Reseal/rebuild steering box
steering couplers
reseal P/S pump
Brake job
Bilsteins
Tie-rods, damper, etc.
Brake master cylinder rebuild
rear subframe bushings
diff mount
reman. driveshaft
POR 15 as needed

That should get it running in good order. Will have to redo seats and revive the A/C later.
__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6
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  #4  
Old 11-15-2004, 12:14 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Raleigh, NC currently residing in KL, Malaysia
Posts: 460
Hello,
You have to remove all the bracketry to get the PAS pump out of the 300D W115, so it is best to remove shroud, fan and cover radiator with cardboard for protection befoe removing the PAS pump bracket bolts.
It may still be difficult to get it past vacuum pump if you are trying to remove it from *up top*.
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  #5  
Old 11-15-2004, 02:18 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,318
On the gas models you loosen the bolts that hold the pump in adjustment in the bracket, remove the belt, then remove the pump and bracket as a unit. No way to get the pump out by itself.
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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #6  
Old 11-15-2004, 09:10 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flyover State
Posts: 1,364
This particular 115 having been purchased in the Fatherland by the original owner may be different than the 115 USA version. The bracket did not have to come out. Removing the fan and shroud created enough room for it to slip out the bottom. Good thing too as the 13mm bracket bolt behind the harmonic balancer looked particularly horrific to get to.
Maybe the factory guys would remove the pulley first. I don't have the puller nor do I know if it would fit with the pump in place.

Thanks for the help.

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6
Reply With Quote
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