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  #1  
Old 01-09-2005, 06:17 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 4
Proper removal of fuel filter on 300E

After removing the protective panel cover.
What is the best way to remove the bracket that holds the fuel filter without
damaging the surrounding components?

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  #2  
Old 01-09-2005, 06:43 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 61
On the 140's, there should be one phillips screw holding the filter and pump in the bracket. Loosen it enough to slide the filter. Pry off the factory clamps, grab a rag to cover the first hose that you remove to keep the spray of petrol down to a minimum. Remove the other hose, install new filter and hose clamps. I never did change the one on my 300CE myself.

Cheers,
Steve
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92 300CE 150Kmi. Sold
89 F250 Diesel 220Kmi. Dead
98 GMC 1500 160K.

Last edited by SteveUrban; 01-09-2005 at 07:00 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2005, 07:02 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 4
fuel filter removal

Thanks for the input.

The auto is a 1989 300E model 124.

Thanks again.
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  #4  
Old 01-09-2005, 07:13 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Johnson City, TN
Posts: 985
My experience

Pretty hard to damage anything. Watch out for fuel dripping in your eyes. You can also gain a little room by disconnecting a couple of the rubber donuts. You may also want to inspect the donuts and possibly replace them if they are old and cracked.

Steve White
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2005, 10:47 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Joliet Illinois
Posts: 309
Changing Fuel Filter

I am also worried about changing the filter on my '88 260e. The fuel lines and fittings are very corroded and I'm afraid that if I try changing the filter something will break and I will be sorry. Are the fittings on the fuel filter difficult to unscrew?
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  #6  
Old 01-09-2005, 11:47 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 577
Though I have a 126 cars, my fuel filter setup in the back is pretty much the same as the 260 or 300. The vast majority have 103 motors.

The fuel filter has a counter nut already attached to it on both sides. You simply go one way with the counter and the other with the fastener that connects to the filter. Piece of cake.

Here's a photo of the filter. Note the counter nuts affixed on both ends. You can click on the photo to expand for a better view.

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1F81F1R0G1F81F1Z1X&year=1991&make=MB&model=300-SEL-006&category=E&part=Fuel+Filter

Last edited by Mike Richards; 01-10-2005 at 12:09 AM.
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2005, 09:15 AM
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Toronto,On,Canada
Posts: 281
on my volvo with a more exposed filter,it toke me 4 hours on a cold day and i ended up smelling like gasoline despite washing up.
So i paid 80 bucks US to have it changed at a MB dealer's quicklube place,parts and labour combined.only takes 30-45 minutes on a hoist inside temp work.
This is one area the labor is worth it.esp at a discounted MB place.
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2005, 11:52 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hamilton Square NJ, near Trenton
Posts: 391
I recently changed the fuel filter on my '87 260E. It wasn't difficult, all the screws & fitting came off reasonably well with standard wrenches.

However, the flexible hose connecting the filter to the hard lines in the car was an 18 year old, original part. It apparently couldn't take the twisting of removing the connections and developed several pinhole leaks. I got a replacement from Fastlane & swapped it in very easily. I was amazed at how little corrosion there was where it counted. Be sure to use two wrenches, one on each side of the joint. Don't let a fuel line absorb the torque.

BTW, many of the connections use a copper flat washer as a seal. take care to keep these clean, yada yada. New ones come with new filters.

Enjoy,

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Next oil change at 230,000miles
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