I have an '89 420 SEL. Two days ago I attempted to start it and the only response I received was the fuel gage registering how much gas was in the tank. No lights (internal or external), radio, climate control, etc. worked. I wiggled the shifter and shifted into nuetral - no luck. I tried to jump the car as well. I pulled the battery and checked it - registered a good battery. After putting the battery back, it started right up. From there it ran for over fifteen minutes before I shut it off. I started it up several times after that without a problem.
The next morning it would not start. Tried the same steps as before without success. The battery and regulator brushes are recently new. Regular tuneups, fuel pump relay replaced, good ground from the engine to the body, battery terminals/ wires are in good condition and all fuses appear to be fine.
Any thoughts? I am an average DIYer so try not to get too technical with suggestions. The other problem is that I have recently moved and have not unpacked my CD's and repair manuals.

Thanks in advance for any help.

You'll track it down. The fact that you got it to start in the interim implies that it's almost certainly a faulty ground somewhere.

I'd check the starter connections first...

Good luck! (Let us know when you find the problem.)

__________________
Eric

1991 560SEL-Euro (214,000 miles)
1989 420SEL (Retired from daily use at 325,000 miles; Use as donor vehicle)

Based on the information you provides I will try 2 paths of troubleshooting to get you started at least.

Does engine turns when you turn the ingnition key?

1. If not try to jump start, make sure you let it charge for few minutes before you crank it up. If it fires up, culprit could be one of these: your battery, Alternator, or Your charging circuit. Since you started and ran it for 15 minutes, car sat for overnight and did not started in the morning. You might have slow current drain in your electrical circuit.

2. If it turns but do not fire up, you could have Fuel related or Electrical related problem.
2a. Fuel related, do you have gas comming to injectors? if no it could be blockedfuel filter, empty fuel tank (sorry), FPR or Fuel distributor. If gas is reaching to the injectors move on to next step

2b. Do you have spark in the plugs, take one spark plug out leave the wire connected provide the ground to it, crank the car and look for the white spark in the spark plug electrode. if No spark, it could be one of these; ignition coil, distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires etc.

Please provide more data after doing the above step to further investigate the issue.

If you want a blind shot, I will go for distributor cap and rotor.

I hope it helps, feel free to ask any more questions.
Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks

__________________
87 420 SEL
Looking for a nice mid 80's MB diesel.
87 BMW 528e (Sold)
99 TOYOTA 4Runner
1989 Honda Accord (Sold)
1988 Honda Accord (Total)

Tried to jump start the car today, waited for about 5 minutes and although she struggled, it started and is currently running.

Goldstone - I checked the starter connections and everything appears to be in working order.

BenzMatic - the engine didn't do anything yesterday at all. It was as though I didn't even have a battery connected at all.

Since the car did start from the jump, you suggested the battery, alternator, or charging circuit as problem areas. I have checked the battery and it is registering properly (and is only two years old). I am attempting to find someone locally who can check the alternator. What can I do to check the charging circuit? I did notice that the first layer of insulation on the wire going from the battery to the alternator had begun to fray but I could not see any wires showing through.

Thanks for the initial replies.

I was able to have my alternator checked by a local mechanic. He said that the meter he was using should register 14 or better and it showed 13.65 after I started the car. When I turned on the lights, blower motor, etc. the number went down to 13.25. He told me that the parts in the alternator had worn (bare with me, I am not adept with the technical terms) over time and that it needed to be repaired. He would charge $160.00 out the door to remove, I am assuming rebuild, and button it back up. Does this diagnosis sound legitimate and how about the price?

Thanks.

Could be ignition switch.

How do I check the ignition switch?