True, but I like to be in tip top shape.
Last week my RV was putting out 19 Volts, that is until I realized my multitester had gone crazy. A check with a new tester and I was right at that sweet 14.5

When I had the alternator rebuilt some of the internal parts were upgraded, not sure of all the names but, shop informed me they could boost output to about 90 amps. How would I go about verifying this. And I think that my vacuum lock pump is draining my battery and causing all my problems. Would it be a proble to disconnect fuse #13 and test the battery voltage, or is their a fuse for the lock pump seperately?? And about my audio system I have 2 Alpine MRD-M500 amplifiers, which produce 500 watts continuous power each and 900 watts max. The amplifiers are turned down though, because my subs can only handle 300 watts continuous. I have a Monster 1 farad cap that supplies the voltage to the amplifiers after it receives it from the battery. About the wire, Moster 4 gauge wire an 80 amp fuse. I would really like to make this alternator work, seing as how I just spent $150 to have it rebuilt last friday. I did look into a custom alternator but after all the custom fabrication necessary to mount it, it seemed a bit too expensive for my tastes, probably close to $500. I have unplugged the amplifiers for now, until I get this whole electrical problem straight. I am kind of surprised that you all are oppossed to the idea of amplifiers in the car. Subwoofers are the best. It is like torture listening to music through those puny 3.5 speakers!!

You could take it to a parts store chain like Kragens or PepBoys, they usually have testers. That or you could probably rig some guages and do it yourself.
90 amps is pretty good if it can really do it, but I doub't it, plus you do have a lot of stuff going on. I can't say about that pump since I don't really know what you're talking about, but I'd disconnect it.
I've put non oem alternators in cars before the ones I did weren't too difficult. Some just needed some washers to shim 'em up right, others need a custom nount. I made a custom job just a few months ago, it came out awsome. I also made an AC compressor mount for my truck; Toyota Tercel AC on a Chevy V8.

I love amps myself, butt news flash: I've never seen an amp draw what its rated output is. My last car/amp setup was 700 watts which would require maybe 60 amps or so of draw. The fuse was 30A and never blew.
I'll never forget my very first amp and its lesson in wattage; it was rated at 300W, but came with a 5A fuse!

I'll bet Willy Nelson sounds superb on that system!

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Dave
1995 C280
1999 Triumph Daytona 955I - my speed fix.
1982 300TD - Gone, but not forgotten.

I agree! Sounds like you did your homework as far as your system is concerned.

I had to quit stuffing subs in my cars when I got married and started a family. I don't particularly care for the pathetic OEM systems offered by MB (or anyone else), but I get to have my butt kicked every weekend by my arsenal of bass cabinets when I'm playing with the band! So, it's a tradeoff.

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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car

Many amplifier companies over rate their amplifier outputs, but Alpine is not one of those companies. All Alpine amps are tested before they are shipped, at 14.4 volts and the results are included with the paperwork, when you purchase them. One of my amplifiers test at 586 watts at 14.4volts. So I know that Alpine watt measurements are not overinflated, similar to JL amps and Phoenix Gold amps.

I just had electrical system checked by some battery specialists. They informed me that the alternator that I just had rebuilt last friday is not putting out enough voltage. The rebuild has a warranty but I am contemplating whether or not I should allow them to fix the problem or just buy a rebuilt one from a Mercedes Parts suppliers. What course of action would you all recommend me taking??

Give the original mechaninc and rebuilder a chance to make good. Show them the test results that showed the rebuilt alternator is not functioning and have them propose how they will correct this mistake. That's what a warranty is for, eh?

Then, if they can't get you a satisfactory product, you would be justified in asking for a refund and taking your business elsewhere.

Best Regards,
Jim

Yeah give him another chance. The worst that can happen is it breaks again and you can't play your subwoofers...
MP

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

they will give him the runarounds again and blame it on the battery and quantum physics etc.Depending on how much you value your time and the **** you are getting ,do what you feel comfortable.
Pay for a reliable rebuilt or pursue for refund knowing you'll spend a lot of time with them

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Tom 2010 C250 4-matic Sport (Canada)

I have often considered these warranties a situation of "If you bring us your car and we break it, we will be happy to break it again for no additional charge". Not such a bargain. I think this idea was stated in "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance" but it has been a long time...

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

I'd take it back myself. I usually get some bs like petaling said, but it's worth a try.
I've been amazed at the balls of some companies. I'll be standing there with a fubar part, a reciept, a box that says guaranteed for life, and they say sorry.

Well I have just ordered a remanufactured Bosch alternator from a reputable Mercedes parts supplier. And this unit is 70 amps, which is a marginal improvement, but it ended up being less than the 65 amp unit anyway. I don't think that I want to deal with the alternator shop again until I get my replacement installed. Then I do not have to work around their schedule. I will give them a chance to fix their work and hopefully will be able to do something with it. Thanks everybody for your help, I don't know where I would have been without this forum. I will let you all know when I get the replacement installed, should be by wednesday. Hopefully this will resolve my charging woes!!

Good luck, hope it fixes it.

Btw, that's not woes. Woes was me 6 years ago driving a beemer with a dead alt. For weeks I had to drive to work with a 500W Honda generator buzzin away in the trunk!!

Does operating temperature affect alternator output?? I installed a Stinger Digital Voltmeter I ordered a few days ago, and the readings I am getting from it are puzzling me. When I first turn the car on, meter reads between 12.2-12.6 at idle and rises to about 12.8 under accelartion. After the car warms up, approximately 7-10 minutes later, voltmeter rises and holds around 14.3-14.5, even at idle. But if I turn the car off and start it back up, it drops down to 12.2-12.6 again!