Rookie does first C280 brake pad job!!!
 

ok, it's about 5:45AM, I go out and start my 98 C280, press on the brakes and the dreaded "Brake Pad Indicator" light comes on!

Ok, I know NOTHING about MB brakes. I have read all the discussions about pad types and I currently have the nasty OEM pads. I go to Fastlane to see what prices I will have to deal with and they ask me for the chassis type. They list:

-A 487047
-F 576240
A 487048-
F 576241-

I thought my chassis type was 202.029?? How do I know which one it is?

Also, are there other parts I need to order before I start this job? I have done a few brake jobs on American cars, so I know some basics.

Also, when the brake pad light comes on, how long can I drive it before it becomes a serious problem? I need to wait until Saturday, if possible?

Kid

You have time to drive, especially until Saturday, normal driving. It's sort of like the low fuel warning on your gauge.

Have you looked at the pads? Are they thin?

how many miles on vehicle?

PARTS:
1) pad wear sensor (maybe)
2) brake cleaner
3) old toothbrush or brake brush cleaning tool
4) Mercedes Benz backing plate grease
5) C-clamp or similar to press piston back into caliper
6) brake pads ( OEM are very good - but may not be the best for drivng desired)
7)new guide pin bolts ( these should come with OEM pads )
8) check brake fluid level in reservior - may need a turkey baster to siphon off excess

disc thickness minimum is 19.4mm, minimum before repair 20.4mm

Guide pin bolts torque to 18 lbf ft

wheel lug nut 81 lbf ft

The cars OEM tool kit should have a wrench that fits in narrow spaces if needed.

have your vin # handy if buying parts at dealer.

Thos chasis numbers from the parts catalog refer to the last digits in your VIN #.

Fantastic detail! Thanks so much. I am probably going to order here to make sure I get what I need.

I have no idea in the Dallas area where I could get pads. Anyone in Big D know where?

I am thinking of the Textar "yellow box" pads.

Curt

Doesn't seem to match anything on my VIN. Last numbers are: 579524


Curt

[QUOTE=Ethan]how many miles on vehicle?

It has about 103K on it.

Curt

So, you want this one: F 576241-
Since your VIN is HIGHER than F 576241. ;)

I always use Textar pads on my car. A lot of dust but great performance and decent service life. Ordering from fastlane above is a good reasonably priced source for the parts.

I have read that the "yellow box" Textar pads are a reasonable choice for price, performance and minor amounts of dust???

Curt

Thanks Manny! I see the logic now!

Curt

Right Pads?
 

Does this car have different front and rear pads? Here is what Fastlane recommended for my VIN:579524

AAA-PBR N1010-113300

AAA-PBR N1010-54982

How much brake dust will these PBRs kick up? I have "OEM"s on there now and they are disgustingly filthy all the time. I am not a "performance" driver by any means, but I would like a good medium performance pad with low heat and minimal dust with maximum rotor life..... of course, I want it ALL! ha ha ha!

Curt

Well, I usually swear by Textar pads, but I wouldn't call them low dust. Maybe a little less dust than the OE compound, but still creates a fair amount of dust.

103K miles, when were your brake disc last changed?

new disk replacement needs just three or so more bolts removed on each corner plus a little sanding - little banging on the rear brakes - maybe an emergency brake adjustment, some locktite and antiseize

also when you have the wheels off it is obviously a good time to clean the inside of the wheels.

[QUOTE=Ethan]103K miles, when were your brake disc last changed? /QUOTE]

I did the "dime test" and the front ones are getting close, the back ones are great.

Curt


UPDATE!

I ordered the front rotors!

ATE N1000-54976

Thanks guys! And many thanks to Phil at MercedesShop.com for all his help and recommendations! Those folks are great!

Ethan

I ordered the front rotors since they were so close to "bad" I couldn't stand it! Are there any little tidbits of info I should know about changing the front rotors before I get started?

Curt

Purchase new brake caliper MOUNTING bolts and disc retaining screws.

Honestly, I wear a cheap respirator and surgical gloves when working on brakes.

Car must be securely supported, place tire under chassis as a final safety stop.

once you have the pads off, take off the two bolts holding the caliper bracket from the steering knuckle.

take off wear sensor and use string to tie caliper from upright / spring so it dosen't hang and stretch hose connections.

take oof the disc mounting screw- I think it is a 5mm hex, may need a smack to lossen. Like wise disc may need a smack from behind to dislodge forward.

I use a small cheap disk sander on my drill to clean smooth and shiney hub mating surface. I also usually dab a few grape size smatterings of synthetic cheap Amsoil grease on the hub surface away from spindel.

Everything back together,
brake disc retaining screw is tightened to 7 lbf ft
caliper to steering knuckel tightened to 85 lbf ft

Mercedes OEM rotors come covered in a grey protective paint, just assemble as is no rotor prep is needed

(1) Whoops! I didn't order new mounting bolts and "disc retaining screws". I asked the folks here when I ordered to tell me what I needed. That got missed. Is there a reason for this?

(2) By "hub mating surface", what specifically do you mean?

(3) If I don't have OEM rotors, what prep is needed?

Thanks again!

Curt

When you get the rotors off, you'll be looking at the hub mating surface.
Make sure it is SQUEAKY clean, to prevent possibly a wobbling wheel.
As for the new rotors, buy a can of Brake Cleaner & spray the new rotors before mounting them.
This will eliminate any oily residue that may have been applied to the rotors to prevent rust. ;)

Ahhhhh! I understand now! Thanks so much for the great advice! I am looking forward to starting this job now as soon as my parts arrive!

Curt

Can't say you haven't done your homework. :D

some bolts once they are used the threads stretch and when they are reused you don't get the proper tightening with the specified torque.

also don't cross contaminate grease on your hand to the new disc surface.

the discs should come with instructions on handling and break in procedure
for the first 100 miles. only short smooth braking.

The only place I have been able to find the mounting bolts online is Performance Products. These should be replaced because they have a self locking compound built in. It is also a bolt that is commonly removed and reinstalled in the industry with an impact wrench.

As far as the disk retaining bolt, there only purpose in life is to make shure the disks dont walk off the studs on the assembly line and fall on the floor. I would only replace these if it looked like the head might become striped on the next removal.

The hub mating surface is that surface between the rotor and hub. It should be cleaned so that the rotor mounts true to the hub. For example you want to make sure there is no build up of rust on one part of the hub that would cause the rotor to be mounted with a wobble when tightened down.

If there is no preservative on the rotors, no prep is necessary otherwize use brake cleaner. These days I have not seen any rotors comming through with preservatives.

John Roncallo

Ok, I have all my parts and have started the job with the left front wheel first. I cannot seem to get the rotor off. I am sure it is rusted, but what is the preferred method to SAFELY get these dudes off?

clankford, back off the set screw then use a block of wood as a softener and hit it with small sledge hammer ... turn the rotor in 90 degree increments and give it another whack until it breaks free. Remove the set screw and take off the rotor then clean the hub and back of the rotor with a wire brush. To prevent future rusting apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the hub or the back of the rotor before reinstalling the rotor.

I guess the problem I am having is to calibrate how much the "whack" would be? I am afraid of hitting it too hard, even with the wood "buffer". Can I totally hose up my front end alignment with too much "whack"? I have soaked the center edge of the rotor and the mounting holes with Liquid Wrench for about an hour. I used a small ball pein hammer with a piece of wood and hit it around the face of the rotor in 90 degree increments. No luck so far.

Hit it harder. ;)

remove the rotor locating screw, ( You have all the caliper brackets, lug bolts out of the way ? )

I use a twenty pound short handle sledge, hit it like you mean business from inside out.

Make sure you don't bang anything else, and make some noise.

clankford, a ball pein hammer is not enough mass. Use a short handled sledge hammer and give it a good rap. As far as the set screw ... it would be better to remove it, and instead leave one lug bolt engaged a turn or so because when the rotor does break loose it will do so suddenly. You wouldn't want a rotor landing on you if you're laying under the car to whack it from behind. Also, if hitting the rotor from the back doesn't work give it a few whacks from the front too.

Yes, I had the calipers hung from above with the locating screw removed and a lug bolt loosely installed for protection. I think I now understand how hard to hit it! (make some noise!) THAT is something we understand in Texas! :D

I will get a good sledge today and take care of this little problem! Thanks!!