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  #1  
Old 03-03-2005, 07:41 AM
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Rookie does first C280 brake pad job!!!

ok, it's about 5:45AM, I go out and start my 98 C280, press on the brakes and the dreaded "Brake Pad Indicator" light comes on!

Ok, I know NOTHING about MB brakes. I have read all the discussions about pad types and I currently have the nasty OEM pads. I go to Fastlane to see what prices I will have to deal with and they ask me for the chassis type. They list:

-A 487047
-F 576240
A 487048-
F 576241-

I thought my chassis type was 202.029?? How do I know which one it is?

Also, are there other parts I need to order before I start this job? I have done a few brake jobs on American cars, so I know some basics.

Also, when the brake pad light comes on, how long can I drive it before it becomes a serious problem? I need to wait until Saturday, if possible?

Kid
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  #2  
Old 03-03-2005, 08:25 AM
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You have time to drive, especially until Saturday, normal driving. It's sort of like the low fuel warning on your gauge.

Have you looked at the pads? Are they thin?
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2005, 09:03 AM
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how many miles on vehicle?

PARTS:
1) pad wear sensor (maybe)
2) brake cleaner
3) old toothbrush or brake brush cleaning tool
4) Mercedes Benz backing plate grease
5) C-clamp or similar to press piston back into caliper
6) brake pads ( OEM are very good - but may not be the best for drivng desired)
7)new guide pin bolts ( these should come with OEM pads )
8) check brake fluid level in reservior - may need a turkey baster to siphon off excess

disc thickness minimum is 19.4mm, minimum before repair 20.4mm

Guide pin bolts torque to 18 lbf ft

wheel lug nut 81 lbf ft

The cars OEM tool kit should have a wrench that fits in narrow spaces if needed.

have your vin # handy if buying parts at dealer.
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  #4  
Old 03-03-2005, 10:09 AM
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Thos chasis numbers from the parts catalog refer to the last digits in your VIN #.
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  #5  
Old 03-03-2005, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali Al-Chalabi
Thos chasis numbers from the parts catalog refer to the last digits in your VIN #.

Doesn't seem to match anything on my VIN. Last numbers are: 579524


Curt
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  #6  
Old 03-03-2005, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clankford
Doesn't seem to match anything on my VIN. Last numbers are: 579524
Curt
So, you want this one: F 576241-
Since your VIN is HIGHER than F 576241.
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  #7  
Old 03-03-2005, 10:52 AM
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Fantastic detail! Thanks so much. I am probably going to order here to make sure I get what I need.

I have no idea in the Dallas area where I could get pads. Anyone in Big D know where?

I am thinking of the Textar "yellow box" pads.

Curt
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  #8  
Old 03-03-2005, 10:56 AM
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[QUOTE=Ethan]how many miles on vehicle?

It has about 103K on it.

Curt
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  #9  
Old 03-03-2005, 01:13 PM
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Right Pads?

Does this car have different front and rear pads? Here is what Fastlane recommended for my VIN:579524

AAA-PBR N1010-113300

AAA-PBR N1010-54982

How much brake dust will these PBRs kick up? I have "OEM"s on there now and they are disgustingly filthy all the time. I am not a "performance" driver by any means, but I would like a good medium performance pad with low heat and minimal dust with maximum rotor life..... of course, I want it ALL! ha ha ha!

Curt
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  #10  
Old 03-13-2005, 12:38 PM
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Ok, I have all my parts and have started the job with the left front wheel first. I cannot seem to get the rotor off. I am sure it is rusted, but what is the preferred method to SAFELY get these dudes off?
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  #11  
Old 03-13-2005, 01:01 PM
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clankford, back off the set screw then use a block of wood as a softener and hit it with small sledge hammer ... turn the rotor in 90 degree increments and give it another whack until it breaks free. Remove the set screw and take off the rotor then clean the hub and back of the rotor with a wire brush. To prevent future rusting apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the hub or the back of the rotor before reinstalling the rotor.
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  #12  
Old 03-13-2005, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferdman
use a block of wood as a softener and hit it with small sledge hammer ... turn the rotor in 90 degree increments and give it another whack until it breaks free.
I guess the problem I am having is to calibrate how much the "whack" would be? I am afraid of hitting it too hard, even with the wood "buffer". Can I totally hose up my front end alignment with too much "whack"? I have soaked the center edge of the rotor and the mounting holes with Liquid Wrench for about an hour. I used a small ball pein hammer with a piece of wood and hit it around the face of the rotor in 90 degree increments. No luck so far.
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  #13  
Old 03-13-2005, 03:42 PM
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Hit it harder.
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  #14  
Old 03-13-2005, 04:16 PM
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remove the rotor locating screw, ( You have all the caliper brackets, lug bolts out of the way ? )

I use a twenty pound short handle sledge, hit it like you mean business from inside out.

Make sure you don't bang anything else, and make some noise.
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