If you have a W124 (or, likely, any other chassis with a vacuum lock system) and want an inexpensive, EASY to install keyless entry, read on!

My wife REALLY missed the keyless entry from our "old" car. We have a '92 300E. I searched the archives for info on keyless entries, and came up with info that Benzmac made a keyless system. However, it seems that they've discontinued this, I'm guessing because of support/installation problems from dummies like me. He suggested that I get one installed locally. I checked them out, and they want to install relays/sensors in the doors, etc.

Anyway, I was ordering a cd player for my truck (for my daughter) from Crutchfields, and I asked them about keyless remote entry systems. They hooked me up with the right equipment, but not necessarily the best instructions... After several calls to the support folks, and hours of dead ends, below are the requirements from Crutchfields and the instructions. Should take a couple of hours, max.

1 - 514REC11 Crime Guard REC-11 69.95
1 - 514DLSV Crime Guard DSVL 3.95
2 - 514AU8 Crime Guard AU8 (relay)(6.95ea) 13.90
Total 87.80

If you order from Crutchfields (800.955.300)and order over $250 from them, you can save $25 by using y customer ID (20011403). I also get $25... hint hint!

OK, here's the process. Believe me when I tell you I went thru hell finding this EXTREMELY simple way to hook this up.

Now, as a caveat, please understand that this ONLY GIVES YOU KEYLESS REMOTE!!! (no starter kill, flashing lights, interior dome light, auto locking doors when ignition is on, etc. that you get if you hook up all of the capabilities of this system).

Remove the back seat bottom (press the two red tabs near the floor and pull up). The vacuum pump is under the rear seat on the right side of the vehicle sheathed in a grey foam block. Carefully gain access to the side of the pump towards the front of the car. You will find 2 wire connectors. Be careful not to disturb the vacuum lines... If yours is like mine, they didn't spare any wire for the pump... One connector is a flat connector with 3 wires. Squeeze the releases on the sides and carefully remove the plug. Remove the other connector, it's round, and the catch on the side has to be flipped up to release it.

On the flat connector, attach the black wire from the control unit and the black wire from the DSLV to the brown ground wire. I like to solder them.
Attach the red (hot) wire from the control unit to the third wire in on the flat connector, it should be red (was on mine, test it with a volt meter, it should show a continuous 12V).

Carefully cut into the sheathing on the round connector. There should be a blue wire in the group. Tap into it with a voltmeter. It should show 12V when the key is turned one direction (locked??), and 0V when it is turned in the other. Carefully cut this wire so that you have room to attach wires to both ends of the cut. The green wire from the DSLV goes to the pump end of this wire, and the white goes to the other cut end. Again, I like to solder connections, and since you are cutting a wire here, heat shrink tubing works well.

Now for the moment of truth. Hook up the two connectors to the pump, connect the DSLV to the control unit, insert the 2 relays into the DSLV, and connect the control unit up. Mash the button and see if it works!!! If it works but not long enough, you can re-program the unit to throw longer (see instructions). Mine worked fine as is.

Assuming all is well, you can also do the following: Take the yellow wire from the control unit and wire it to a cheap on/off switch from Radio Shack, and wire it into the red wire. This is the "ignition" wire, and it's used for the rare times you might need to program the unit. Just flip the switch to program. You can also attach the piazo, the valet switch (for programming), etc. Wrap everything up making sure all is insulated, and tuck everything back into place. Snake the antenna so it's exposed from under the seat. Test again, put the seat bottom back in.

Good luck, email me if you need help (bstreep@satx.rr.com)! Again, thanks to everyone on this site that have helped me out in the past.

Bill Streep
'92 300E
'57 190SL

Bill-

That sounds almost exactly like the keyless kit we used to offer in PartsShop. The Crutchfield price is super.

Take a look at our install procedure and see if you recognize anything:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124Keyless

We stopped selling it because we felt it was a little too complex for some people to install.

Too bad you don't still sell it...
 

Your instructions, while SLIGHTLY more complex, are pretty simple. I tried to talk Benzmac into it... He did give me the name of the place that you had been buying the parts from, but without the instructions,I didn't want to chance it. And, as you noted, for the price, the Crutchfields approach ain't bad... BTW, the units look nearly identical. Made by Omega.

Bill Streep

Hi Bill,

Following your method to install a keyless entry, will this also activate/deactivate the factory alarm?

Thanks to the Webmaster for the very useful procedures with pictures!

Thanks a lot!

budkorn

1987 300D Turbo

Yes it will.

The car shown in the pictures is my wife's 1995 E420 and the alarm works like a charm.

124 Keyless entry
 

Hey Bill, I noticed that the parts that y'all had listed were nearly identical to those that I bought from Crutchfields - maybe a newer control unit (mdl 11 instead of 8). What purposed did the connections to the Convenience unit serve? Am I missing anything I might want??? ;-)

Bill Streep

The convenience unit controls the factory alarm. This connection allows the remote to function exactly the same as locking and unlocking your car with a key.

i recently purchased the avital remote access 2 keyless entry system from ebay for $30 and I am looking to install it soon. I have found all of the parts that were required in your installation example except for the Crime Guard DSVL. Is there any where besides crutchfield where i can buy this?
later
doug

My wife also was delighted with the convenience of remote keyless entry (her Christmas present). The fact that I installed it myself in the depths of a Toronto winter did not go unnoticed!

With respect to dug's query, the ‘DLSV’ is just a dual-relay connector/harness. You can use any pair of standard single-relay harnesses, appropriately inter-wired. Also, any remote security unit that can be programmed for 3.5 seconds (most can) works well with the M-B vacuum system. This gives you wider product selection and better price than relying on Crutchfield. They are all installed in the same way.

For those undertaking this project, there’s one area of potential confusion in the PartsShop instructions (step 7) that should be clarified. Earlier 124’s have 3 rather than 6 wires in the round connector. If your connector has 6 wires (3 pairs) you can splice into EITHER of the blue wires. Their voltages will be the same as they are really the same wire at the same potential.

----------------------
Barrie
86 300E

Will this work in a W201??
 

Hi all,

I have an 87 190E-16V and I'd like to install keyless entry in it. Is the vacuum pump wired the same as in the W124? Can I use the same parts as described in the first post, or do I need any additional ones? What else do I need to be aware of?

Thanks in advance, can't wait to be keyless!!

Daniel

Do you think this will work on my 1983 300SD? I have a vacuum lock system and I think on this model the extra v-pump is in the trunk. I am sure it is differant from the one shown on the website. Any advice?

I ordered the keyless entry parts from Crutchfield this morning
 

Here is a list of what they are sending. Any updates on this install.

Bstreep,

How has your system been holding up since your install post of 12-17-2000?


514REC11 Crime Guard REC-11 Keyless Entry 1
0 69.99 69.99
514DLSV Crime Guard DLSV Vacuum Interfac 1
0 3.99 3.99
514AU8 Crime Guard AU8 40-amp Relay w/ 2
0 6.99 13.98
000CAR4 Crutchfield Guide:Car Stereo Ins 1
0 0.00 0.00
000CARSEC2 CAR SECURITY INSTALL GUIDE 1
0 0.00 0.00
000MULTI2 MULTIMETER INSTRUCTION SHEET 1
0 0.00 0.00
000CATALOG CURRENT CRUTCHFIELD CATALOG 1
0 0.00 0.00

Sub
Total: 87.96

Shipping: 5.99

Total: 93.95

Wow, you just saved me about 40 Grand! I was going to swap my '91 300E for a 2003 E500 to get remote key entry:)

What sort of keyless entry are we talking about? Remote-control operated unlocking, or the newer MB type with a card that goes in your wallet and the car unlocks itself automatically when you are in the radius.

Now *that* would be cool to retrofit!

I already have an aftermarket alarm fitted, which gives me remote locking, but I'd swap for the card type

My kit arrived from Crutchfield yesterday :) I'll probably install it this Sat.

Ok, stupid question but here goes:

I have a "swtch blade" type key to fit my CE, from an S classe.

A bud of mine was playing around with the remote in his stereo shop and he said it emmits an RF signal as well as the IR. He thinks, if one got a "code catcher" a keyless entry could be hooked up to work off of this remote.

Is he correct? Or is this not possible? Not sure what this "Code Catcher" is or how one would obtain one. He said it is used to make aftermarket alams work with the factory remotes.

Sounded feesable, but too good to be true to me. Interested in any thoughts any one has to offer.

Thanks in advance!

Ok so now I am royally pissed off!!!! I just spent the better part of 4 hours trying to make this remote keyless entry kit work. I am having problems with the factory alarm kicking on. Its sitting in my driveway with the battery disconnected and the back seat cushion in the trunk.

What could I be doing wrong? Could my connections at the convenience center plug not be properly connected? My neighbors must be real sore over the number of times my damn horn was blaring. I do not like alram systems in the first place. If I could disconnect the alram part of the system I would :(

I followed the http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124Keyless

Help ....please :) I'm almost tempted to take it to an install shop at this point :(

if you don't want to use the convenience features then just wire the lock / unlock functions per this thread. BTW, the lock function will also arm the factory system. the convenience functios have to do with light flashing etc...

I am going to deinstall the systems periphery functions (disconnect the connections I made) and go by Bstreeps install.

Why does BStreep mention to cut the blue wire and the webpage mentions to cut the green wire?

Should I have not cut either of the green wires and used the blue instead?

bud buddy!!!!!!!!!!
 

if i go out,buy a 300e,put in the system i'd be willin' to trade it for your e500;) ;) ;)

my 514dslv does not have a black wire coming off of it.....problem?

Neumann,
 

Once you have everything figured out, I may stop by your house to see the installation;) and get some tips for installation in my car (may be). I also live in Jax.;)
Just kidding now!:p but, I do live in JAX.

sorry, i didn't go the crutchfield route. i did the trunk install which is a lot simpler (but no convenience functions). these diagrams helped me understand what the heck this was all about.
explanation
all the DSLV does is to simplify the double relay connection with the funky MB lock / unlock connection. basically you need to supply power to the unit, then you have to figure out which wire is the actuator (green in diagram)...

Going back through some of the instructions from the DLSV it states that ...

"typically, total of three circuits are found at the supply pump: driver door(usually blue), passenger door (usually green) and trunk usually yellow. "

As I stated earlier I had cut into one of the green wires at the round connector and Bstreep cut into one of the blue wires. Now I think I see why he chose blue.

But still I can not find a black wire coming off of the DSLV as he stated. I guess the product may have changed in the 2 years or so since he did this mod.

that black wire on the dslv provides -12v (to ground). you need this in order to have an unlock function. it looks like it could be supplied from the control unit though from the pictures on the mercedesshop procedure...

I give up. What a case of total frustration. I pulled out what I installed and returned the system to stock. Ahhhh the sweet sound of silence :) Finally that damn alarm horn was not sounding off. The differences in instructions, subtle differences in remote entry components and possibly differences in wiring harnesses in different model years led to my demise. Chalk one up for a learning experience.

I should have gone with a local installer who offered to do the system for $160 total. Buy hindsight is always 20/20 :) The cructhfield items were around a $100 and the $60 extra would have been well spent by paying a pro.

I am not saying that the instructions or advice posted was misleading or bad...in contrary I really do appreciate the info that was documented and posted. Thank you to all. To some extent I enjoyed attempting to install the system but it just seemed to be something beyond me. I have never been comfortable with electrical based work and I knew this going into the project. Give me something mechanical and I am all over it :)

I am returning the items to Crutchfield this afternoon :(

Do not use 'scotch locks' as described in the 'Keyless Entry Install' manual or you will end up with problem. It is much better to cut the wire and solder the new wire on it. Then use plastic shield which shrinks when you apply heat. This is special important if you ever consider installing an alarm (alarm which goes on/off in the middle of the night is NOT popular :( ).

that system probably won't work. the MB application is unique because the actuator is only one wire to which you send either +12v or -12v. look at that link i previously posted - it explains most of the different standard relay hookups and the MB setup. the Crutchfield kit provides you with that DLSV add-on that allows you to do that hookup. i went the Jcwhitney route (cost $40 shipped), where you have to perform some surgery on the unit's pcboard to come up with the correct relay connections. after the mods to the unit in that system, hookup is very straightforward.

i think anyone attempting this should do it in two steps. do the lock / unlock first then the convenience features (if you want them). a preliminary step that i found really helpful was to hook everything up with a 12v lantern battery and verifying that everything was working as it should (supplying +12v and -12v using the one wire).

i just had the keyless entry thingy put on with my Viper car alarm...200.00 total, installed!!!! w/ignition kill; harmonious glass breakage mic; pulse module for vacuum locks; custom siren w/battery continue if power cable cut....woo hoo!!!

tkamiya,

that sounds about right. i would guess the other wire (yellow) is for the trunk, because that was the color wire that i used when i hooked up mine - was that what you were asking about?

don't know the answer to that one, sorry. anyone else out there? pls. post what you find. i just might convert to a system with flashing lights one of these days!

Can any one please scan the REC-8 installation manual and user manual and email it to me?

I've purchased the REC-8 from this site but I've lost the manuals - I would like to transfer this system from my old car to my 95 C280.

Also, does any one know which wires I should tap into? I know those wires are in the trunk and I can test which ones I should tap into, however, if any one knows, it will save me quite a bit of time!

Thanks in advance.

i followed this procedure for a trunk installation. the wires in my w124 were all the same color code. don't know if it will be the same for your car.

trunk install

I really need the programming manual for the REC-8 or REC-11. Can anyone please help by scanning just the programming pages and email them to me?

Thanks very much in advance!

1995 124 unlock/alarm
 

Did the crutchfield keyless. Now when locking with the key and then unlocking with the remote, the alarm goes off when the door is opened. Doesn't happen open close with key, or open close with remote. What gives???

Beech,

Same thing is happening to me.

This is true.

This step I have not yet achieved. I can not lock with the remote, and I can unlock only after locking with the key.

I reprogrammed the control unit from .8 to 3 sec. The DLSV does not have a black wire to connect to square connector but I believe it gets whatever it needs from the control unit. Correct me if I am wrong.

I am not connecting to convenience module yet. I got a taste of the comfort of the remote (unlocking doors) and I love it.

Why can't I lock using the remote? When I press lock on the remote, the control unit works but does not send a signal to the pump. Any ideas?

E. Lee, I'll scan the programming pages for the REC-11 tomorrow morning and send them to you

DaCanes:

Thanks in advance for your help! Really appreciate it.

it works meaning you can hear the relays click? make sure you are supplying that +12V that goes to the pump side (i believe that's the green wire from the DLSV). if you are not getting the +12v there with the "lock" button then the external relays hooked up to the DLSV may not be connected properly...

jsmith, thanks for your prompt response.

Here's what's happening with doors initially unlocked:

Using key
Initially: +12V on green wire from DLSV.
Locking: 0V on green wire from DLSV (constant).
Unlocking: +12V on green wire from DLSV.

Using Remote
Initially: +12V on green wire from DLSV.
Locking: 0V on green wire from DLSV (temporarily w/o
engaging pump) and then returns to +12V.
Unlocking: +12V on green wire from DLSV.

Occasionally, I am able to use the remote successfully for only one lock/unlock cycle. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

tkamiya, I will check the PULSE-ON you suggest. I believe that is feature #9 (Double Unlock Pulse) for my REC-11. Currently it is set to the default of OFF. I will try it tomorrow because I'm all "relayed" out for one day.

speedy300Dturbo has another thread(#45588) with a very helpful diagram:http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...&postid=262511
This is how my relays are connected:
[IMG]c:\download\my relay setup.jpg[/IMG]
Is this right? It doesn't look the same. I'm planning on creating another relay setup as per speedy300Dturbo and trying it out. By the way, the two relays are identical except that one has 045 stamped on it and the other has 055. Are they really the same?
Thanks.

Sorry about the size of my image ("That's a HUGE bit**!!!").:D

can't see the picture. anyhow, i think it's the pulse duration too. something called "double unlock pulse" doesn't sound right...

Speedy300dturbo had it right. Here's that animated explanation I referenced before:

click on the button that says "interfacing Mercedes vacuum doorlock"

This is the electrical schematic of what you are trying to do with those two relays (from the Crutchfield solution):

http://www.mbcoupes.com/audioalarm/a...sschematic.jpg

Sorry about the image guys. Still learning... Hopefully you can see this diagram:
http://gwyneth.streamload.com/Gimme/...elay_Setup.jpg
Thanks for all your input.

dacanes,

saw your pic once then it's not showing again. the only thing i noticed is that you didn't show the connections for the +12V and ground to the relays, i don't know if the DLSV handles that for you. the two 87's are connected to positive and negative respectively. the 85's and 86's are the triggers, they obviously need to be triggered independently...

HTH

SUCCESS AT LAST!!!!!!!! :) :) :) :)
Would you believe that the DLSV was wired incorrectly? I created a temporary relay connection as per speedy300Dturbo's diagram and it worked. I wonder if the other guys that had problems had the same DLSV hook up?

I then took it a step further and tapped into the convenience module to arm and disarm the alarm. That worked fine too :) :) :).

However, I am noticing something weird with the windows. When the windows are down and I press the lock button the car locks and the windows go up but only for 3 inches and then stop. Has anybody experienced this? Any ideas?

Special thanks to jsmith and tkamiya for their guidance when I was really close, and to speedy300Dturbo for the diagram that made it all possible. And to my mother, my father . . . . . .

way to go! can you post the error in the DLSV wiring? there had been complaints before. BTW the convenience module handles the power windows among other things - could it be you hooked up something there by mistake?

also, what year & model is your car? could never figure out that bit about the convenience module. mine is a '93 and i wired into the trunk, no convenience module hookup and it still arms and disarms the alarm.

now if onlys someone can enlighten us on the flashing lights confirmation...

It's a 1992 300E. I will post the error on the DLSV wiring.

After playing with the remote I realized that the window glitch happens when I press a remote button within close succession. I remember my mechanic telling me that once you lock the doors you can unlock and lower the windows only if you do it within 15 seconds. I wonder if that has anything to do with it. It seems that the control unit is transmitting a short signal (windows moving up but only a few inches) instead of a long signal (which would simulate the key being turned and held for a few seconds). I'll play with it a little more and will post.

Now I have to do some soldering and heat shrinking before I short the whole system.

Working now
 

My 95 E300 is a keyless/arm the alarm wonder now. Hooked the crutchfield stuff up per the instructions, and added the two wires over to the convenience module and voila--keyless that works great and arms and disarms the factory alarm.

did anyone try it without the convenience module hookups? what happened? did the alarm not work? my trunk installation didn't require a connection to the convenience module and it arms / disarms the alarm no problem...

I have my system installed without the comfort and convenieence hookup. The system works perfectly and activates/deactivates the alarm system. I believe it does this because the way the keyless entry is wired as described in this thread, it fools the locking system into thinking somebody used a key to lock the driver's side door. This in turn does all the stuff locking the car with a key would.