Should I just replace the drag link or tie rods as well.
 

I have been informed that I need to replace the center link or, as I have deduced, the drag link by a state inspection station.

Is this link adjustable and will I need an alignment after it's replacement?

Is it a good idea to do more than just the drag link?

Any tips appreciated.

drag link is not adjustable. You could replace it w/o and alignment but I wouldn't recommend it. Replacing the link is easier if you are doing the tie rods as well. Hard to explain, but if you are using a pickle fork the stud from tie rod is in the way.

I just started a thread that shows how to do the tie rods and ball joints.

Robert

I saw your thread Robert, it is a great resource.

I am a little short on time and cash at the moment... and was hoping I might be able to shortcut around the full job a little.

Does compression of the springs keep the control arms in place so the tie rods can be inserted?

I assume this would be necessary if I were to attempt the drag link alone.

I thought I saw Larry Bible saying you could just knock the drag link out with a 3oz hammer... but I'm so clueless when it comes to this stuff I'm just looking for a little more guidance.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=262466

I have replaced just the drag link. No alignment necessary. An easy DIY.

A pickle fork and a BFH is apparently all you need. I used a lever like remover, no pounding, just tighten the bolt, and the joint pops free.

If it's working (tie rods), leave it alone. These parts last a lot longer than you might think.

glenmore
1991 300CE

The tool I used is the one in the lower center. There is not much overhead room to use the upper right and upper center type tool.

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3738

glenmore

Thanks, thats just what I was looking for.
Last question... Front wheels on and on ramps for this job? (I'm just a little clueless in this area)
TIA

There is no pressure on the drag link while installed. However. You must be able to safely get to it. So YES put the car on jack stands and that way you will be safe. Or ramps. but I personally prefer jack stands. Ramps seem so flimsy and unsafe.
You can borrow the pickle fork form Autozone etc. They have tool loaner programs.
You will destroy the ball joint rubber boots on the drag link using a pickle fork. BUT your installing a new one.
Now make sure the guy was talking about the drag link. You also have a steering shock in the center of the linkage and it does wear.
You will have to disconnect the shock to replace the drag link. Bolts only.

Dave

1) I usualy work on a sloped driveway :eek: So saftey is a big concern for me.
I like to get the ramps on the low side of the car then put a couple of spare wheels with tires on them to catch the falling benz and prevent my body from being crushed. (though she has yet to fall on me ;) )

2) Would that also be called the steering damper? He described the piece as being about a foot long and called it a center link and a steering component. Does that sound like the right part?

I think he's probably talking about the drag link. When you have the front end on jack stands, just look past the wheel at the joint end of the drag link. When you rock the wheel, any excess movement of the joint will be obvious.

glenmore
1991 300CE

I called the inspection station last night. The Guy who did my inspection was not in but the guy who answered the phone seemed to think that the center link in their terminology meant the drag link or the link between the tie rods.

Got the car jacked up last night as well (one side at a time) and there was indeed play on the passenger side joint of the drag link.

Thanks again for all the feedback.
Hope to get to it this weekend.

An alignment should be performed when ANY component has bee changed in the suspension.......otherwise expect to chew a lot of life out of your tires before you realise I am right.

Personally tie rod ends are cheap enough I would do them as well as the Drag link.......

In general, this is a good rule. The exception is the drag link.

glenmore
1991 300CE

\
Why is that an exception.....

production variances from manufacturer to manufactureer or even production run to production run of the drag link WILL yield differences in the toe adjustment of the car........look were the tie rod assemblies attach....

I guarantee you every single drag link assy out there is not absolutetly, positively the same exact width....

Now if you are talking the Idler arm assy....and not the drag link assy.....(which is between the tie rod assemblies)

When I changed my drag link I measured the length of both of them just for fun, they were exactly the same.

If money is tight keep the $70 in your pocket and see if your tires start to wear funny. More likely then not it will not affect your alignment.

Load L1 Letter? Bonehead Dr. - is that Michael Bolton?
 

I don't know what your finances look like but...

The tie rod ends can sometimes demand a great amount of force to free them from the idler arm and the pitman arm (at the steering box) Since R&R on the these things (idler/steering box) is vast compared to the tie rods I just can't recommend bashing away on them with a hammer to get the tie rod ends free. A pickle fork (or even better, a press) is a much better way to go. I think it would be impossible to remove the drag link with a pickle fork without first removing the tie rod. And R&R on the tie rod is pretty simple. And if your drag link is shot your tie rods are close as well. If you do the tie rods and the drag link at the same time there is no need to put the car on a ramp - the easy way is to keep three wheels on the ground. Do one side, put the wheel back on, and do the other side. This also keeps the steering assemblies from moving as well. I think the drag link is about $50 and the tie rods are $35 each. Afterwards get a $100 alignment from somebody who knows MB. So the job just went from $50 to $220. But your tires will wear better and you won't need to do the tie rods any time soon.

Go here and learn about your suspension.

http://www.************************/BitMapPage.aspx?bitmapid=197&bitmapname=Front%20Suspension%20&%20Steering

item #6 is your drag link OR center link

item #12 is your steering damper.

Here are pictures of the parts, click on them to enlarge.


Steering damper

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1HN0SOM5G1HO0R0KA7&year=1986&make=MB&model=300-E-002&category=M&part=Steering+Damper

Drag link or center link or tie rod assemble,center

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=mercedesshop&cookieid=1HN0SOM5G1HO0R0KA7&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1986&product=M3000-16364&application=000015698

Dave

A millimeter difference at the tie rod mounts will be hard to measure accurately but will certainly effect the toe settings......try two different manufactureers tie rod ends some time....they are't all preciesly the same either.....counting exposed threads will get you close but not dead on without an alignment....

Chew up your tires you are out for new tires AND an alignment.....

instead of just an alignment....sounds pennywise and pound foolish to not do it right.

Not to mention the fact that a minor misalignment issue will DRAMATICLY reduce wet weather traction.......think about that next time you take that dangerous looking turn in the rain....

So it sounds like, as a Band-Aid, I could do the drag link... pass inspection... pay my gas bill... go fishing next weekend on opening day... and get an alignment in a month.
While I'm down there I should thoroughly clean and inspect everything for signs of wear.

That would give me the opportunity to get in there again... later this year and do the job again to hone my skills ;)

If you actually look at your tires you would see the wear before a lot of life is taken off of them.

When I did mine I also did the tie rods, I counted the threads ect. The shop said I was reasonably close.

you can lose 10,000 miles wear before its obvious at a glance...how many people have tread depth guages......

Besides like I said...even a minor adjustment will make it real hairy on wet roads.....

That will work..........but do get it done ( the alignment) ASAP.......an out of alignment car will hydroplane far quicker than one in proper alignment. And Spring is here.

[QUOTE=A264172] go fishing next weekend on opening day... QUOTE]

Ha I'm in the same boat! :D $200 for a blower motor, or fishing gear...I need new flyline more then a blower motor, so... :D

Check you idler arm bushings while you are under there.

[QUOTE=Hatterasguy]Yeah I can't wait.
I go up for the weekend every year to the same unstocked stream... nine miles between roads of nobody... except for the 5 trout that live there, me and the 15 other guys I go with.
I have to save my tie rod money for fly rod expenses (like a liscence and beer).

Thanks for the tip. Should I just look for cracks in the bushings?

Yep I have been going for the last 10 years to a nice little river in upstate CT. We rent two 40ft trailers at a camp ground, I usually bring one of my friends and about 6-8 of my dads go.

I look forward to it every year! :D The MB is all ready, I think I will dust off my fly rod tonight!

I have a little 7ft, 4wt, 1 ounce Orvis. It is a sweet little rod and I wouldn't trade it for any other rod in the world. It is perfect for me. With Cortland 444 line it can lay out a nice presentation.

7ft... you must be surrounded by brush and over growth like me :D
I actualy found a 4 piece 6ft rod last year that snapped on me 5 miles upstream... before I found out how much I like it. One things for sure... Ill have a spare pack rod with me if I try out its replacement this year. It was a nice little IM8 graphite spin fly combo from Dicks sporting goods I've never seen one that small before. When I went back with my reciept a week and a half later the clerk took pity on me and replaced it. I think I might go back up to 8ft though and use it as the spare... you get a little more roll cast off an 8ft...
Good luck this year.

I started with an 8ft 6in, 6wt rod, but I just couldn't cast it. 90% of the streams I fish are very small and 7ft is long enough. I have a 9wt and 10wt saltwater rods if I want a work out! :D

On thing I like about Orvis is they have an awsome 25 year warranty. If you fall and break the rod they will replace it for free! It doesn't matter no questions asked they will fix or replace your rod for any reason for 25 years!

Good luck!

success
 

Well that wasn't too hard. I would however highly recommend the lever type puller that glenmore suggested, after about an hour under there without enough room to swing the BFH into the pickle fork, It was clear that it would have done the job with ease. Everything else in and around there seemed to be in pretty good condition. I could feel the difference in the steering, slight but it did feel a little tighter.

Changed out the rotors (for Balo) and the pads (for OEM) as well... cleaned everything up pretty well. The inspection station cant see me till Monday but I took her for an illegal test drive of about 20 miles to bed in the brakes. The cleaning and new rotors cured most of the ABS sensor (cold brakes) low speed pulsation.

So thanks to all for your help. You saved me a lot of stress and probably a few mid job trips to the parts store. I'm going to keep an eye on those treads and get an aligned next month. Now it's time to concentrate on fishing.

Passed
 

Update... Passed inspection...