I have been informed that I need to replace the center link or, as I have deduced, the drag link by a state inspection station.

Is this link adjustable and will I need an alignment after it's replacement?

Is it a good idea to do more than just the drag link?

Any tips appreciated.

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

drag link is not adjustable. You could replace it w/o and alignment but I wouldn't recommend it. Replacing the link is easier if you are doing the tie rods as well. Hard to explain, but if you are using a pickle fork the stud from tie rod is in the way.

I just started a thread that shows how to do the tie rods and ball joints.

Robert

__________________
89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000

I saw your thread Robert, it is a great resource.

I am a little short on time and cash at the moment... and was hoping I might be able to shortcut around the full job a little.

Does compression of the springs keep the control arms in place so the tie rods can be inserted?

I assume this would be necessary if I were to attempt the drag link alone.

I thought I saw Larry Bible saying you could just knock the drag link out with a 3oz hammer... but I'm so clueless when it comes to this stuff I'm just looking for a little more guidance.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=262466

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

I have replaced just the drag link. No alignment necessary. An easy DIY.

A pickle fork and a BFH is apparently all you need. I used a lever like remover, no pounding, just tighten the bolt, and the joint pops free.

If it's working (tie rods), leave it alone. These parts last a lot longer than you might think.

glenmore
1991 300CE

The tool I used is the one in the lower center. There is not much overhead room to use the upper right and upper center type tool.

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3738

glenmore

Thanks, thats just what I was looking for.
Last question... Front wheels on and on ramps for this job? (I'm just a little clueless in this area)
TIA

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

There is no pressure on the drag link while installed. However. You must be able to safely get to it. So YES put the car on jack stands and that way you will be safe. Or ramps. but I personally prefer jack stands. Ramps seem so flimsy and unsafe.
You can borrow the pickle fork form Autozone etc. They have tool loaner programs.
You will destroy the ball joint rubber boots on the drag link using a pickle fork. BUT your installing a new one.
Now make sure the guy was talking about the drag link. You also have a steering shock in the center of the linkage and it does wear.
You will have to disconnect the shock to replace the drag link. Bolts only.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

1) I usualy work on a sloped driveway So saftey is a big concern for me.
I like to get the ramps on the low side of the car then put a couple of spare wheels with tires on them to catch the falling benz and prevent my body from being crushed. (though she has yet to fall on me )

2) Would that also be called the steering damper? He described the piece as being about a foot long and called it a center link and a steering component. Does that sound like the right part?

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

I think he's probably talking about the drag link. When you have the front end on jack stands, just look past the wheel at the joint end of the drag link. When you rock the wheel, any excess movement of the joint will be obvious.

glenmore
1991 300CE

I called the inspection station last night. The Guy who did my inspection was not in but the guy who answered the phone seemed to think that the center link in their terminology meant the drag link or the link between the tie rods.

Got the car jacked up last night as well (one side at a time) and there was indeed play on the passenger side joint of the drag link.

Thanks again for all the feedback.
Hope to get to it this weekend.

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

An alignment should be performed when ANY component has bee changed in the suspension.......otherwise expect to chew a lot of life out of your tires before you realise I am right.

Personally tie rod ends are cheap enough I would do them as well as the Drag link.......

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

In general, this is a good rule. The exception is the drag link.

glenmore
1991 300CE

\
Why is that an exception.....

production variances from manufacturer to manufactureer or even production run to production run of the drag link WILL yield differences in the toe adjustment of the car........look were the tie rod assemblies attach....

I guarantee you every single drag link assy out there is not absolutetly, positively the same exact width....

Now if you are talking the Idler arm assy....and not the drag link assy.....(which is between the tie rod assemblies)

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

When I changed my drag link I measured the length of both of them just for fun, they were exactly the same.

If money is tight keep the $70 in your pocket and see if your tires start to wear funny. More likely then not it will not affect your alignment.

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I don't know what your finances look like but...

The tie rod ends can sometimes demand a great amount of force to free them from the idler arm and the pitman arm (at the steering box) Since R&R on the these things (idler/steering box) is vast compared to the tie rods I just can't recommend bashing away on them with a hammer to get the tie rod ends free. A pickle fork (or even better, a press) is a much better way to go. I think it would be impossible to remove the drag link with a pickle fork without first removing the tie rod. And R&R on the tie rod is pretty simple. And if your drag link is shot your tie rods are close as well. If you do the tie rods and the drag link at the same time there is no need to put the car on a ramp - the easy way is to keep three wheels on the ground. Do one side, put the wheel back on, and do the other side. This also keeps the steering assemblies from moving as well. I think the drag link is about $50 and the tie rods are $35 each. Afterwards get a $100 alignment from somebody who knows MB. So the job just went from $50 to $220. But your tires will wear better and you won't need to do the tie rods any time soon.

__________________
89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000