I have been informed that I need to replace the center link or, as I have deduced, the drag link by a state inspection station.

Is this link adjustable and will I need an alignment after it's replacement?

Is it a good idea to do more than just the drag link?

Any tips appreciated.

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

drag link is not adjustable. You could replace it w/o and alignment but I wouldn't recommend it. Replacing the link is easier if you are doing the tie rods as well. Hard to explain, but if you are using a pickle fork the stud from tie rod is in the way.

I just started a thread that shows how to do the tie rods and ball joints.

Robert

__________________
89 300te 222,222
92 300e 190,000

I saw your thread Robert, it is a great resource.

I am a little short on time and cash at the moment... and was hoping I might be able to shortcut around the full job a little.

Does compression of the springs keep the control arms in place so the tie rods can be inserted?

I assume this would be necessary if I were to attempt the drag link alone.

I thought I saw Larry Bible saying you could just knock the drag link out with a 3oz hammer... but I'm so clueless when it comes to this stuff I'm just looking for a little more guidance.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=262466

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

I have replaced just the drag link. No alignment necessary. An easy DIY.

A pickle fork and a BFH is apparently all you need. I used a lever like remover, no pounding, just tighten the bolt, and the joint pops free.

If it's working (tie rods), leave it alone. These parts last a lot longer than you might think.

glenmore
1991 300CE

The tool I used is the one in the lower center. There is not much overhead room to use the upper right and upper center type tool.

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3738

glenmore

Thanks, thats just what I was looking for.
Last question... Front wheels on and on ramps for this job? (I'm just a little clueless in this area)
TIA

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

There is no pressure on the drag link while installed. However. You must be able to safely get to it. So YES put the car on jack stands and that way you will be safe. Or ramps. but I personally prefer jack stands. Ramps seem so flimsy and unsafe.
You can borrow the pickle fork form Autozone etc. They have tool loaner programs.
You will destroy the ball joint rubber boots on the drag link using a pickle fork. BUT your installing a new one.
Now make sure the guy was talking about the drag link. You also have a steering shock in the center of the linkage and it does wear.
You will have to disconnect the shock to replace the drag link. Bolts only.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Go here and learn about your suspension.

http://www.************************/BitMapPage.aspx?bitmapid=197&bitmapname=Front%20Suspension%20&%20Steering

item #6 is your drag link OR center link

item #12 is your steering damper.

Here are pictures of the parts, click on them to enlarge.


Steering damper

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1HN0SOM5G1HO0R0KA7&year=1986&make=MB&model=300-E-002&category=M&part=Steering+Damper

Drag link or center link or tie rod assemble,center

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=mercedesshop&cookieid=1HN0SOM5G1HO0R0KA7&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1986&product=M3000-16364&application=000015698

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Check you idler arm bushings while you are under there.

__________________
1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.

[QUOTE=Hatterasguy]Yeah I can't wait.
I go up for the weekend every year to the same unstocked stream... nine miles between roads of nobody... except for the 5 trout that live there, me and the 15 other guys I go with.
I have to save my tie rod money for fly rod expenses (like a liscence and beer).

Thanks for the tip. Should I just look for cracks in the bushings?

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

Yep I have been going for the last 10 years to a nice little river in upstate CT. We rent two 40ft trailers at a camp ground, I usually bring one of my friends and about 6-8 of my dads go.

I look forward to it every year! The MB is all ready, I think I will dust off my fly rod tonight!

I have a little 7ft, 4wt, 1 ounce Orvis. It is a sweet little rod and I wouldn't trade it for any other rod in the world. It is perfect for me. With Cortland 444 line it can lay out a nice presentation.

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

7ft... you must be surrounded by brush and over growth like me
I actualy found a 4 piece 6ft rod last year that snapped on me 5 miles upstream... before I found out how much I like it. One things for sure... Ill have a spare pack rod with me if I try out its replacement this year. It was a nice little IM8 graphite spin fly combo from Dicks sporting goods I've never seen one that small before. When I went back with my reciept a week and a half later the clerk took pity on me and replaced it. I think I might go back up to 8ft though and use it as the spare... you get a little more roll cast off an 8ft...
Good luck this year.

__________________
-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html

I started with an 8ft 6in, 6wt rod, but I just couldn't cast it. 90% of the streams I fish are very small and 7ft is long enough. I have a 9wt and 10wt saltwater rods if I want a work out!

On thing I like about Orvis is they have an awsome 25 year warranty. If you fall and break the rod they will replace it for free! It doesn't matter no questions asked they will fix or replace your rod for any reason for 25 years!

Good luck!

__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200