Reasons to change the W124 Alternator brushes/V regulator!
 

93 E320 (300E 3.2)

1) Voltage regulator fails, allowing 19V to the system
2) OVP blows (but OVP fuse doesn't :mad: )
3) Engine runs ragged, surges rapidly on cold start
4) AC blower stops working,
5) cruise control fails,
6) Nakamichi stereo and amps stop working,
7) battery cooks off,
8) miscellaneous exterior bulbs pop,
9) license plate light wire shorts
10) Bulb warning light comes on
11) Check engine light comes on, but then doesn't re-appear

So far, the parts are a new V reg/brush assembly :rolleyes: , new battery, some bulbs, and an OVP. Oh, almost forgot - a new blower motor regulator at $300+. :eek: The Nak seems to work so far, as does the cruise control. The rest of the AC seems OK, and the new OVP seems to have solved the ragged, surging engine. Don't imagine the Voltage and failed OVP did the rest of the electricals any real good, but time will tell.

So if you are driving along and all of a sudden the radio and cruise control stop working, and the engine seems a tad rough, and an exterior bulb warning light comes on, then you indeed have a problem! (btw, you might make sure the check engine light works - unless it blows from the 19 V when the OVP fails)

We might just put OVP and brush assembly on our 3 year p.m. replace list!

were your voltage regulator brushes/contacts worn down to the nub?

They were worn, but not completely gone - maybe 25-30% left.

Boy, I sure dodged the bullet on this one.

Looks like I sold the car just in time. :D

btw...your 300e looks great!!

is the grill insert painted gloss black?

Close - I had my body shop prep a new plastic insert, spray it with matte black (about half way between gloss and flat black), then put a couple layers of matte clear coat. Extra work, but it has been about 4 years since it was done, and still looks great - even though it has had enough front road trash to require replacing the aluminum grill strips once in that period.

Whole seperate story on the inserts: I used the later 300CE inserts instead of the 87 strips. Suginami tracked down the part number. The 87 replacement inserts don't work like the original ones, and require a dozen or so plastic clips to hold them in place (loosely). The later model CE strips fit like the originals in the same tracks without clips. The only difference is the late ones are flat faced strips and a little bolder looking, while the original strips form a sharp leading edge instead of a flat face, and are a little more subtle.

BTW, Suginami did a great job maintaining his car, and my tech was pretty picky in his PPI - this is just one of those things that happen, and a validation of the old saying of holding 20% of the purchase price in reserve for unforseen issues when buying used cars. We still love the car, and no regrets.

Looks like it's painted black. Don't forget to compliment on the Hella 500 Euros :D

i noticed the euros immediately, but didnt' compliment because I have that setup... I just want to get rid of the ugly faded gray insert look...

also noticed the 94/95 parking light update..

so it's black matte followed by clear coat matte..... got it.....

i have one of those s600 grill inserts on my ce... my son is now driving my 300e

Thanks for the kind words. I maintained that car like it was my baby. I expect your son to have many, many years and hundreds of thousands of miles of enjoyment in the car.

I still can't believe the OVP fuse didn't blow, saving the damage to the bulbs and the blower motor regulator. At least it didn't ruin the HVAC blower motor, which was just replaced by Enrique at Mr. MB Motors to the tune of $500.

BTW, if your son checks out the maintenance history, the OVP was replaced under the Starmark Warranty with the good part number version.

The important thing to consider when deciding to replace the voltage regulator vs. alternator is the mileage. With the regulator removed you need to take a close look at the stator shaft. This is often overlooked. With high mileage the shaft wears considerably at the brush contact area. Just take a peek up inside of the alternator. If the shaft is worn there's an obvious difference in the color at the contact area. A close look will determine the extent of the wear. As far as the fuse in the OVP not blowing, it's not the voltage, but the current that burns out the fuse. In this case the OVP did it's job, which is to protect critical (expensive) control modules from being damaged. Finally, I'd suggest removing the battery tray and neutralizing the battery acid, which most likely wound up down there following the battery boil-over.