Problem started when I shut the car down, my TE by the way, and had a heck of a time getting the key out of the ignition. When I returned I could not get the key to turn at all until after jiggleing it for 10 minutes it reluctantly turned. It goes to start, but nothing happens. Like the shifter is in gear or something. I have the ignition out and am wondering if there is a test for it. With the problems I was having I suspect the ignition but would like to make sure before I order one. Probably a 3 or 4 hundred dollar item. Any thoughts ?

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

<< It goes to start, but nothing happens>>

Want to explain that ?

Sorry, I meant it goes to the start position on the switch, but acts like I have it in a gear or something. I tore the switch apart tonight and think there is definately a problem with the mechanics of the switch. The more I dissasemble it, it becomes easier to turn. I have lubed all the surfaces that ride on each other, but no change. `I am going to order a swich in the morning and will report on the outcome. In the meantime I have to drive the SL,,,,,, sigh.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

Ok, .so you turn the key to start position and nothing [ no starter crabk]

Couple of simple test
Jumper wire from terminal #30 [ red] to term. # 50 [violet ] on ign sw . Starter should crank [ make sure shifter is in N or P ]
If yes, replace ign sw . If no . see is starter will work in 'N". If yes , replace neutral saftey sw.
If niether , pull 3 prong connector on firewall between engine and brake booster, to the left of booster , and jump power from bat + to the center terminal. If yes, starter circuit between ign sw and connector is at fault.
Let me know what is found.

Thanks much Arthur,,,, will try these tests today.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

Arthur, Car will not crank when I jump 30 and 50. Is the 3 prong connector on the firewall a flat plug and the center wire violet/white ? And I cannot get the car into neutral with the ignition out. Is there a way to get the shifter in neutral by accessing the shifter through the console. Most cars we work on have a way to get the car in neutral by pressing a tab around the shifter.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

<

that should be it
I am not refering to the firewall behind the engine , but the small one that separates the booster compartment from the engine.
That is the feed plug to the starter sol., so power that center wire with bat + and the starter should crank.. This test isolates which direction the problem is from that common point.
If Yes , then the problem is between ign sw and that firewall plug. The series circuit power chain back to ign switch from connector is K38 alarm
lock-out relay, to NSS , to ignition sw.
I have that schematic if you need tracing particulars

Also , see if you have 12v at ign sw 30 [red]

Engine did crank when I jumped the center pin to 12v. I did order the whole ignition assembly this morning because there is definately something mechanical screwed up in there, and the price really isn't bad at all. I do have 12v at two #30's at the switch. I was also wondering if there should be 3 pins jumped together to get this baby to crank. Will not crank by just jumping the two. Cannot get it out of park either even after I completely reassembled the switch and put it in the column. Any other way to get it out of park ? Thanks for your help.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

i had this identical problem with my 300d in january, it was the ignition switch on my car

__________________
rodney

<>

No..
There are 2 red , but it makes no difference which you use b/c they are both bat feed +.
Another way to test ign sw is to test for 12v at red 30, and then test for 12v at 50 when you turn the sw to start ... same as jumpering , I just had you jumper for quick test..
The problem is the ATA relay or the NSS

You can jumper the NSS under the dash /steering column area at a plug with v/w and v/g wires {Terminal 3/4 at plug]
ATA K38 is jumpered at relay term 87/30 or wires 1/3 [v to v/gn]
Don't think yu can shiftntil ign lock is back in..

I was doing real good Arthur until the ATA and NSS came up. What in the heck are those, and where are they ?

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

OK

.. don't get scared..

the NSS is the gear selector sw [ Neutral Saftey Switch]
ATA is the alarm system . That is the K38 relay and it is behind the speedometer panel.
As I stated before , in order for the starter to work the power has to go through a chain of parts that are wired in series , meaning any part in the chain can stop the power .
The chain is power "to and through" the ignition sw when turned to start position.. you have established this .
That output wire from ign sw now goes to the K38 relay . This is a starter lock-out relay for security..the power has to go through this device and continue on to the NSS . That is there so you can not start the car in gear. So, in P/N , the power goes "Through" the NSS and goes to the terminal I had you jumper to on the firewall.. which we have concluded from the original test that form that point on, the starter circuit is fine

So , you have a broken link between the ign sw and the firewall terminal and each part in that chain has to be checked for continuity.. that is the info in my last post explaining how to jumper each component with the terminal#s and color codes according to a schematic up on my board as we speak..
I would start w/NSS , as they are common age related failure part.

A PS note
Because you have the ignition out, I would verify the start portion of it with the 12v test I posted before ... simply b/c when you jumpered the ign sw, you may not have had the gear selector in P/N , compounding the problem...a 12v output test of ign sw [ rather then the simple jumper] will verify this important step..

Thanks a bunch Arthur. I should receive the ignition switch tomorrow, and then I will track down the other problem,,,, I think.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

OK

I just added a PS to the last post that you may want to check before buying an ign sw.

If you run into trouble, I can walk you through it..

Arthur, I have had the 7 prong switch and plastic cams out of the ignition but I still have trouble getting the key in and out, and putting the cams and plug on the end make it even worse. There was a post inside the cam thingy, that sits down over the end of a coil spring, and 1/2 of the post was broken off. That is the main reason I am getting a new switch. Like I say, once it is in I will try to find the other problem. Thanks again, Pete.

__________________
95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K