A/c problem help

[kk9]

My blower just shuts off completely and then it starts slowly and then again shuts off. This keeps on happening continously.The problem is every time it shuts off, the recirc button also goes off and I have to press the recirc button every time as I can feel the hot outside air blowing on my face.This happens mostly when the car is parked in the sun and during the hot afternoons.It takes a real long time to cool. Most of the time during the evenings it cools perfectly well and there is no intermitent cutoff of the blower.The temperatures here in Dubai now are quite hot around 42C and they will be going upto 47- 48C in the next two months(July to August). Will someone please tell me what do I need to check or replace.
This problem started after I had the evaporator replaced.

One more concern of mine is that I feel my car is running a bit hot.
What should the normal temperature be if the outside temp is around 42C
with high humidity and A/c running.
I am also confused regarding the temp indicator. I used to believe that the horizontal hash indicates 100C, but my mechanic tells me it is 90C. I get worried when it goes above that mark.
Will someone please educate me on this.

[kk9]

anybody please

You need to start by connecting manifold gauges and checking the refrigerant charge. 100C engine coolant temp won't hurt anything as long as the system is full of coolant.

Good luck,

[Lenny Lipscomb]

The intermittant blower operation may be a loose connection made worse by temperature change. Perhaps a plug was not connected properly when the evap was repalced? Have cheack your fuses. These things can creat an intermintant high resistance connection because of the design of the fuse. Remove the compressor fuse and inspect it. Oxides somtimes build up on the ends. The first sign of this kind of trouble is a very hot fuse.

[sublettd]

Had a problem yesterday on the drive to Houston where the A/C suddenly started blowing hot. Finally cooled down but the center vents weren't putting out air. (I'd also had some other weird things going on with it the last few weeks.) Under dash pods had recently been replaced. Last night we swapped the CCU and problem still existed. Luckily my son saw where the cannon plug to the A/C amp above the glove box had become disconnected. Plugged it back in and A/C now working like a champ.

So, your problem could be something as simple as what we ran across. I suppose the A/C amp might also be bad. However, I'm not technically sharp enough to diagnose.

[kk9]

Thank you all.

I will check refrigerant charge and post it here.
I also would like to check the compressor fuse. Could you please tell me where it is located exactly. Is it in the Fuse box.
the loose connection referred to by lenny, is this connection at the blower.

I believe the problem has something to do with the heat.
Only when the car is sitting under the sun for some time the problem shows.
It does not appear when I start from the garage in the morning.

[rjk]

See this post for some good diagnostic details

A/C blower not working

Mine turned out to be a bad blower motor, another guy had a bad fuse.

[kk9]

What is the temp indicated by the arrow.
I used to believe it is 100C, but a couple of mechanics at the garage,where I take my car very strongly assert that it is 90C.
I am really confused.

[lee polowczuk]

that's 90. I'd say that's not bad at all considering your amient temps.

[Arthur Dalton]

It is 100C
All Euro temp indicators are index marked at 20C intervals..

You may want to check the calibration/accuracy of both the sensor and the gauge.
Here is the sensor temp/ohms comparision chart for testing both.

60C-110 ohm
80C -67 "
100C - 38 "

I just keep a pre-measured 38 ohm resistor in my tool box and sustitude it at the sensor for gauge checking... that way, you do not have to wait for engine coolant to warm up..

[kk9]

Had been to the mechanic to get the refrigerant charge and the pressures checked, found he was using the same gauges for R12 as well as 134( In fact he had just finished charging 134 in another car with the same gauge). Did not let him check as scared it would cause contamination of my R12 system.
I could also hear gurgling of water in the dash. I had thrown away my auxillary pump a year back as it was leaking.Got a new auxillary pump thinking it might help both my a/c system as well as lowering the engine temps. But still the problem persists of the blower cutting off with simultaneus switching off of the recirc button.The blower then starts again slowly picking up speed and then cuts of again .This goes on and on.
Could it be that the heater valve is faulty and when the hot water rushes in the blower cuts off or is it the fresh air pod or some damn sensor.
Should I make the LED diagnostic tool and check for sensor fault codes.
please help. The outside temps now are 44C plus