86 300E - Trans Removal Question
 

I'm going to remove my trans to repair a couple of leaks. I've never pulled a trans before and I'm wondering which of the transmission jacks shown below would be best suited to attaching to the 300E's transmission without damaging the pan or any linkage. They're both available at Harbor Freight right now on sale. The Scissors Jack is going for $49.99 (belt strap, no saddle tilt) and the floor jack adaptor is $52.99 (chain strap, saddle tilt 60 deg. forward, 10 deg. backward).

Are there any tricks or tips I should be aware of for this job?

Thanks for any advice.

Gary

Are you going to take the engine out too?

I'm inclined to go for the one with the adjustability and the chain, but I don't have any experience w/ either.

No, I wasn't planning to pull the engine if I can help it. Hopefully, it won't be necessary.

well, you really want the trans to be able to tilt some on the jack, as you'll have the back of the engine tilted downward to disconnect things and when you part the trans from it. Even though the scissors jack doesn't have a "tilt" feature, it will tilt a little, just due to the weight of the trans. Still, the tilt feature looks like a plus. Yet, the scissors jack has the raise/lower controlled by a ratchet drive, which is much more controllable than a hydraulic floor jack.

In theory, these seem like must-have tools for this job. However, I've found that the jack itself requires a lot of extra height, so the car needs to be lifted WAY up if the trans is attached to the jack and then rolled under. Thus, I've resorted to balancing the trans on a floor jack with a piece of 3/4" plywood between the jack and oil pan. When the jack comes all the way down, I put wood blocks under each end, pull out the jack, pull out the blocks one by one, until the trans rests on a sheet of cardboard, then pull it out behind the removed left front tire. Reverse to install.

Wouldn't this be one of those cases where it might be a lot easier on the heart if you paid someone to take it out and put a new one in....

It seems very complicated without a car lift.

Unfortunately, that would be just a little difficult right now, under the circumstances.....

Cool....you're just about ready to take it out. Use 2 jacks: 1 under the engine (bottle jack + wood will work) and a floor jack (one of the good ones w/ a wide lifting surface) under the bellhousing. A third (trolley or floor) jack may be used under the rear of the trans, but isn't necessary if you have someone there to guide it. You just need someone to pull on the tranny and keep the rear of it from falling too hard; most of the weight is at the bellhousing.

It can be done w/ 1 able-bodied helper, but I'd recommend trying to get 2 helpers to remove it, if you can.

Phalcon51,

How difficult was the rear sub-frame to remove? I've often looked at that and thought that would be the way to go when rear bushings need to be replaced. I figure I could just set it on the bench and have excellent access to everything.

I appreciate your thoughts.

Jeff Pierce

very impressive undertaking. I wonder how that rear camber strut got bent.

A guy in an older 300SE backed up into the Lt. rear wheel as my wife was starting to turn into a parking spot 2 cars down from him. His Rt rear bumper corner hit the top of the wheel and buckled the strut. The newer strut I'm replacing it with is made of 2 pieces of stamped steel, mirror images of each other. It appears to be much stronger.

Gary