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  #1  
Old 08-20-2005, 02:16 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Baton Rouge La
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Idler arm issue

The front end on the 300e was squeaking (my son told me about this relevation after we changed out his rear shocks and brakes today).

Anyway we traced it to the top idler arm bushing. First question: We sprayed wd40 up there to stop the squeak. Is there something better to spray up there?

Second question: Below is a method tried to renew the idler arm bushings.. have you all had success with it?

If you take off the nut and pull out the lower bushing, then push out the top bushing with the bolt still in place, it will come right out. Then reinstall in the reverse order, putting the bolt through the bushing before the bushing is pressed into the sleeve.
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Thanks for any replies. I think the Idler arm bushing noise is a direct result of doing the sway bar link bushings a few weeks ago. The system found its next weakest link.

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


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  #2  
Old 08-20-2005, 04:03 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
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I'm trying to think of something worse than WD40. You shouldn't lubricate rubber parts with petroleum based lubricants. Better to use silicone based lubricants such as Silglyd (sp?) from NAPA.

I don't know how tight the quarters are in a W124. In some cars the alternative to dropping the exhaust is fitting the bolt from the bottom. Some say the risk is that if the idler arm nut comes loose then having the bolt fit from the top provides a margin of safety. On the other hand I've never seen a loose idler arm bolt. Clearance is usually not an issue for removing the bolt if the bushing is worn. Lots of wiggle room.

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95 S420
87 300SDL
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  #3  
Old 08-20-2005, 05:20 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
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The reason for sliding the bush mounts out before bolt/pin removal is b/c without the bushes in, you can then angle the pin as the pin hole is larger than the pin w.o the bushes.
The nut on top/bottom is a non-issue .. it is a lock thread nut and they don't come off , regardless of their orientation.....
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  #4  
Old 08-20-2005, 05:42 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Baton Rouge La
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So it sounds like the best thing to do is to cut the head off the bolt if you do not have the clearance....then re-new the bushings and then put the bolt in upside down.

I don't have a problem with putting the new bolt on upside down... I just don't think I am going to have the clearance to get the old one out.

This won't be done until the weekend after labor day...

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


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